There is a duo in watch history that you must know. Gérald Genta and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. I would like to share the background of the genius designer who pioneered the era of high-end sports watches and the story of the birth of the Royal Oak.

The Beginning of Gérald Genta

Born in Switzerland in 1931, Gérald Genta was already renowned as a jewelry designer and goldsmith before entering the watch industry. In his early twenties, He entered the watch industry and built his career by receiving commissions from famous brands such as Universal Genève and Omega. With an independent personality, Genta was drawn to the craftsmanship of the small but prestigious Audemars Piguet (hereafter AP) and became an unofficial partner.

Disco Volante / ⓒ Sabiwatches

Model 5182 / ⓒ Hodinkee

During his time as a jewelry designer, He realized that the decisive factor in attracting consumers' attention was not the material of the jewel but rather a unique shape that could stand out. Even in his early collaborations with AP, You can see that Genta's muse was geometry. Watches such as the 'Disco Volante', Which elevated the dignity of dress watches with symmetrical designs made of lines, And the 'Ref. 5182', Which embodies the avant-garde aesthetics of asymmetry, Speak to Genta's design philosophy.

The Royal Oak Born Overnight

The legendary story of the Royal Oak's creation begins on April 10, 1970, The day before the Basel Fair in Switzerland. AP's president, Georges Golay, Urgently delivered a new mission to Genta. It was an ambitious idea for a 'luxury waterproof sports watch for modern consumers'. At that time, AP was solidifying its image as a maker of glamorous dress watches, But to enter the saturated sports watch market, They needed a miracle from Genta. They were hoping for a new paradigm, The 'luxurization of the steel sports watch'.

1970 Baselworld Fair / ⓒ Audemarspiguet

AP's president Golay and Genta were not only business partners but also close friends who wore the same watches. In a 2011 interview, Genta said, "We had a perfect symbiotic relationship, " and Genta's wife testified that he intuitively understood Golay's demanding requests. While Genta was personally setting up the AP booth for the watch fair, He received the order for a 'luxury sports watch' and completed the design overnight with just one revision.

Vintage diving helmet

The Birth of the Watch Designer

In fact, Before Gérald Genta created the Royal Oak, The profession of 'watch designer' did not exist. There were 'watch stylists' who coordinated dial colors and bezel materials for completed watch cases, But there was no special position that intervened from design planning to completion.

ⓒ Watchcollectinglifestyle

Genta also influenced the iconic Tapisserie dial as much as the octagonal case. There were as many as 300 templates devised by the dial manufacturer, And it is said that the final decision was made together with the president of the manufacturer. The 'Petite Tapisserie' dial is still in use today. The movement suitable for the slim case was chosen together with AP. By equipping it with the Cal. 2120, Which boasted the thinnest profile for decades, It was born as a slim sports watch.
In 1971, AP ordered the first batch of 1, 000 steel models.

That year, AP's total watch sales were 6, 217 pieces. The revolution in watches that the Royal Oak would bring was already predicted. After that, AP continued to increase the models and production volume of the Royal Oak, And it grew to become the brand's representative watch. It is estimated that the Royal Oak line now accounts for 90% of AP's sales.

Royal Oak Selfwinding 15510ST.OO.1320ST.03

41mm, White/Grand Tapisserie, 50th Anniversary

Royal Oak Selfwinding 15510ST.OO.1320ST.04

41mm, Green/Grand Tapisserie, 50th Anniversary

Royal Oak Selfwinding 15510ST.OO.1320ST.01

41mm, Blue/Grand Tapisserie, 50th Anniversary

The Legend of Genta Continues

ⓒ Sotheby’s

As a freelancer by nature, Genta was also active in collaborations with other brands. Just four years after the first launch of the Royal Oak, In 1976, The second icon of luxury steel sports watches was introduced. Does a similar watch come to mind? That is none other than the Nautilus by Patek Philippe. The birth of the Nautilus is surrounded by a legend no less than that of the Royal Oak. While attending the watch fair in 1974, Genta saw Patek Philippe executives dining at a restaurant and was inspired. The story goes that he borrowed paper and a pen from the restaurant staff and sketched the Nautilus design in just five minutes, A very 'Genta-like' story. Believe it or not.

ⓒ A Collected Man / ⓒ Timeandwatches /
ⓒ Crownandcaliber

In 1976, The same year the Nautilus was released, He designed the Ingenieur for IWC, And in 1977, The BVLGARI for Bulgari, Contributing to the differentiation strategies of watch brands.
One of Genta's last legacies is the Pasha de Cartier. At that time, Genta was probably the only person who could create a watch that could exude a sporty image while maintaining Cartier's unique elegance.