Women Who Hold Time
Now when women choose watches
Special Theme

The global luxury brand group Richemont recently announced its Q1 2025 results. While watch sales have struggled somewhat compared to 2024, It was none other than the jewelry divisions of Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Buccellati, And Vhernier that drove the group's overall revenue growth. The main consumers of jewelry are women. This suggests that women are emerging as a new power not only in the jewelry sector but also in the jewelry watch and watch markets where there is overlap.

Maisons have long recognized this reality and have continued efforts to secure a female customer base. How do women's watches, Which lie between practicality and ornamentation, Encourage consumption, And how will they capture the hearts of female customers in the future?

Consistently Released
New Women's Collections

'Advantage' from the Scope of 'Heritage'

© Cartier

© Cartier

Brands that combine jewelry and watchmaking have the strength to present original creations by leveraging their deep understanding of precious metal materials and unconventional shapes and designs. They also enjoy the freedom of not being bound by 'heritage, ' which is both an asset and a source of pride for watch specialist brands.

Among them, Cartier, Which originated as a jewelry house, Freely moves between and connects watches and jewelry. The new women's watch collection for 2025, Tressage, Exemplifies this characteristic. The fact that the Tressage jewelry line spawned a watch line just two years after its launch is evidence of how flexibly new attempts can be made.

Left: Tressage watch from the side / Right: Tressage bracelet and ring<br/>© Cartier

Left: Tressage watch from the side / Right: Tressage bracelet and ring
© Cartier

This watch is characterized by a voluminous twisted object that wraps around both sides of the case. The twisted volume continues in the jewelry, Creating a unified world view. From the side, The dial is hidden by the object, Giving the impression that only the form of a jewelry bracelet remains.

Reflection de Cartier<br/>© Cartier

Reflection de Cartier
© Cartier

Last year, The Reflection de Cartier collection, A bangle-style watch that reflects the dial to tell the time, Was introduced. The Panthère jewelry watch, Which has a similar structure, Draws parallels with jewelry in both form and style.

Panthère jewelry watch<br/>© Cartier

Panthère jewelry watch
© Cartier

Piaget, Renowned for its high jewelry frequently seen at awards ceremonies and galas, Also possesses a deep and rich jewelry history that allows it to blur the boundaries between watches and jewelry.

Left: Jewelry watches from the 60s and 70s / Right: Piaget Sixtie<br/>
© Piaget

Left: Jewelry watches from the 60s and 70s / Right: Piaget Sixtie
© Piaget

The new women's collection Sixtie, Presented by Piaget, Highlights the growing importance of women's collections. There is anticipation that it will open new paths in place of the saturated men's collections. One trend in 1960s jewelry was geometric elements. The art world, Influenced by the Mod movement, Sought new and experimental styles, Moving away from the traditional and conservative styles of the 1950s. In addition, The Space Age aesthetic, Influenced by the ongoing race to the moon, Made shape itself an essential element of design. Sixtie features a geometric design with an inverted trapezoid and asymmetrical top and bottom, Reflecting this era. Sixtie, Which was also used as a pendant watch, Has revived its unique shape and details to become the new face of Piaget's women's collection.

Jewelry X Watches for Everyday Wear

High jewelry and high jewelry watches are praised as works of art over time, But their splendor can sometimes feel overwhelming. They are limited in use for daily or office wear, And fundamentally, Their high price makes them less accessible. Filling this gap are 'jewelry watches' made of stainless steel with minimal gemstone setting. Stainless steel cases are less expensive and more practical than precious metals like gold or platinum. By setting small stones only on the bezel or indexes, A restrained elegance can be achieved, Which maintains steady demand.

Rolex Lady-Datejust 'Star Diamond' dial<br/>© Rolex

Rolex Lady-Datejust 'Star Diamond' dial
© Rolex

Lady-Datejust 28 279174

Lady-Datejust 28 279174

28mm, Silver/Diamond, Jubilee

link
Lady-Datejust 28 279174

Lady-Datejust 28 279174

28mm, Pink/Diamond, Jubilee

link

In the watch division for those who prefer more distinctive designs than standard forms, Bulgari has steadily increased its brand recognition and presence. The 'rising star' at the center is the Serpenti line. The version with a steel case and petit diamonds set in the snake head-shaped case has recently gained notable popularity. In Korea, The Seduttori and Tubogas lines of the Serpenti collection, Which are 'two-tone' entry models with some precious metal mixed in, Are almost sold out every week.

Left: Tubogas bracelet / Right: Serpenti Tubogas watch<br/>
Retail price difference 400, 000 KRW<br/>
© Bulgari

Left: Tubogas bracelet / Right: Serpenti Tubogas watch
Retail price difference 400, 000 KRW
© Bulgari

A presence that is difficult to achieve with jewelry alone within the same budget. Watches are fulfilling that role.

Reverso One Duetto<br/>© Jaeger-LeCoultre

Reverso One Duetto
© Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre's Rendez-Vous is exemplary in this approach. Petit diamonds are set on the bezel of the steel case or used only as accents on the hour indexes. In the brand's signature Reverso collection, You can choose from various sizes with a combination of steel case and two rows of diamond setting. Even with diamond setting, The price is not much higher than the standard steel model, Allowing for a wide range of choices.

What Women's Complications
Imply

Twenty~4 Quartz<br/>
© Patek Philippe

Twenty~4 Quartz
© Patek Philippe

Launched in 1999, The Twenty~4 was Patek Philippe's first women's collection. It features a rectangular case influenced by Art Deco and a bracelet design that creates a sense of unity. Although it bears the Patek Philippe name, The use of a quartz movement was not much different from existing women's watches. This approach was tailored to female users who found the use and maintenance of mechanical movements cumbersome at the time.

Twenty~4 with round case<br/>© Patek Philippe

Twenty~4 with round case
© Patek Philippe

In 2018, The Twenty~4 introduced a new watch. Unlike the rectangular design, It adopted a round case and used a mechanical movement. Although it was essentially a new collection, The new watch released under the Twenty~4 name was significant. It was an intention to introduce mechanical movements in earnest and to set the same standards as the men's collections.
Below is an excerpt from an interview with Patek Philippe CEO Thierry Stern about women's watches.

"We decided that women should have their own watches... Not just a simple gimmick, Not an imitation of men's watches, And not something completely new, But a watch like that."

Recently, The Twenty~4 Perpetual Calendar was released at Watches and Wonders 2025. This is evidence that female customers are now paying attention to watches not only as fashion accessories but also as haute horlogerie.

Women Who Will Hold Time

Women's watches are now at an important turning point in the watch market. Women's watches with timeless designs and mechanical movements on par with men's are no longer just accessories. They have become an important medium for expressing independent and unique styles, Not subordinate to men's watches. This shows that women are now a consumer group demanding functionality and sophistication beyond mere decorative elements.

Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon<br/>© Monochrome

Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
© Monochrome

Chanel and Mannequin Moving J12 Automaton Caliber 6<br/>© Chanel

Chanel and Mannequin Moving J12 Automaton Caliber 6
© Chanel

Brands need their own 'template' or 'canvas' to satisfy female customers. Just like Tank, Submariner, Moonwatch, Nautilus, And Royal Oak, A signature design that can be recognized from five meters away is the starting point of a successful product.

Today, Many maisons seem to believe that this 'brand recognition building' has already been achieved to some extent. As a result, Even maisons more familiar with high-end fashion and jewelry are consistently introducing complications that were once considered unnecessary.

This is not simply a response to market demand, But rather a desire to prove their watchmaking capabilities and an ambition to move the market themselves. One day, This ambition may shine even brighter.

© Cartier, Blancpain, Van Cleef & Arpels, <br/>Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget

© Cartier, Blancpain, Van Cleef & Arpels,
Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget

I believe that women's watches will continue to attract attention from various perspectives. The recent changes ultimately present new possibilities across the jewelry and watch industries, And in the process, The two will work organically to create new results that have never been seen before.

Felix

Writer

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