It was my first love that I admired alone. With just one photo it captivated me and even appeared in my dreams... The watch was the Cartier Santos 100. The fact that it was not a round shape was a refreshing shock and the contrast between the tough crown guard and the long delicate Roman indexes left a strong impression. I was confident that I could wear it stylishly (with what confidence I do not know). However for me as a university student at the time this watch was like a celebrity in a magazine.

Cartier Santos 100 XL Automatic 2656 ⓒ watchvault

Twenty years have passed since then (revealing my age like this) and the Santos always reappears just when I am about to forget it reminding me of those memories... and how much I loved the Santos.
There is only one reason why the presence of the Santos is unforgettable; because it is classic. So in this article I will write about the enduring popularity of this watch that I could not own even if it is a belated story.

New Watch Trend: Square Watches

Square watches are in vogue. Of course in terms of absolute transaction volume the mainstream of wristwatches is the round shape (especially since Rolex which boasts over 30% market share only makes round watches). However if you classify the watches we recognize as 'icons' by case shape there are surprisingly many square watches; including Cartier's Tank Panthere Santos as well as Patek Philippe's Nautilus Aquanaut TAG Heuer Monaco and Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso and more.

Cartier Panthere and Santos ⓒ phigora

In particular the Reverso and Tank have recently gained rapid popularity as 'elegant dress watches' along with the quiet luxury trend and their prices have also been overwhelmingly higher than other watches (the Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse with its ambiguous 'ellipse' shape between square and oval is the same).

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Market Index ⓒ watchcharts

 And recently when it comes to 'square watches' you cannot leave out Patek Philippe's Cubitus; this perfectly square watch with a name that combines 'cube+Nautilus' has been the biggest issue maker lately. Interestingly the model most often compared to the Cubitus is the Cartier Santos along with the Nautilus.

ⓒ dmarge

If you could buy only one? 

Cartier Santos is a strong candidate

Moreover the Santos is an all-in-one watch is it not? Thanks to its design that looks both delicate and tough some wear it as a dress watch some as a sports watch and some enjoy both charms at once. 

Cartier Santos Galbée XL ⓒ fratellowatches

Also the positioning of the Santos in terms of gender cannot be explained in black and white. How many watches are there that were born for men but are also loved by women (of course many Cartiers are like this)? Oh and for the gentlemen reading this article 'the watch I like' is hard to get permission for from the home minister but 'the watch she likes too' is surprisingly easy to persuade.

Santos-Dumont small ⓒ dubail

Above all the Santos is 'Cartier'. Is there any other watch as universally loved as Cartier? The brand's image itself is different from other watchmakers. While Swiss watches are generally positioned as 'superior in function' or 'assets to be passed down' and have become symbols of ability and wealth Cartier's selling point is beauty and romance.

The History and Types of Santos

Then which Santos would suit me best? First the Santos is largely divided into 'Santos Dumont' and 'Santos de Cartier'. 

(Left) Cartier Santos de Cartier ADLC
(Right) Cartier Santos-Dumont XL ⓒ swisswatches-magazine

The biggest visual difference between the two is the presence or absence of a crown guard. The Santos Dumont with a more delicate look does not have a crown guard and instead features a more pointed cabochon (the blue sapphire set at the tip). On the other hand the robust hexagonal crown of the Santos de Cartier which is positioned more as a sports watch is protected by a crown guard that looks like a 'second lug'.
 
If you are a collector who values authenticity the Dumont might suit you better. The first Santos that appeared in 1904 did not have a crown guard. And the rare vintage Santos models are also closer in design to the Dumont.

Cartier Vintage Santos Dumont Paris ⓒ classicwatchny

On the other hand the Santos that revived Cartier from management difficulties was called 'Santos de Cartier' starting with the Santos Carree released in 1978. If you prefer a slightly sportier look or think the Dumont's design is too much like a dress watch this is more suitable for you.

Cartier Santos Carree Two-Tone ⓒ huntingtoncompany

Unlike the past when Santos was made only of precious metals the Santos de Cartier was released as a stainless steel watch (with yellow gold screws on the bezel and bracelet) to increase its popularity. The bracelet with a design as unique as the case shape also appeared at this time.
 
From 2004 the Santos 100 was released with a crown guard like the Santos de Cartier but only with a strap not a metal bracelet (and this was the version I fell in love with).

Cartier Santos 100 Rose Gold & Steel Automatic
ⓒ fabsuisse

In terms of quantity there are about twice as many Santos de Cartier as Dumont. The Carree which was positioned more for the general public than the Dumont and the Galbee released in 1987 were sold for a very long time until the Galbee was discontinued in 2016.
 
That does not mean the Dumont disappeared completely. Cartier continued the Dumont lineage with small production precious metal models and in 1998 introduced the Dumont of the CPCP (Collection Prive Cartier Paris) edition which is like the AMG of Mercedes-Benz for Cartier.

Cartier Santos Dumont 1576B CPCP ⓒ collectorscornerny

What about the price of the Santos?

The price range of the Santos is as diverse as its types. The factor that most affects the price is rarity followed by the year of manufacture. First let us set a standard by organizing the prices of current models.
 
The current Santos de Cartier ranges from 10.1 million KRW to 20 million KRW depending on size and movement and can go up to 100 million KRW for special materials and limited editions. The Dumont ranges from 5.6 million KRW to 32 million KRW.

(From left) Santos MM, Galbee XL, Galbee LM ⓒ VIVER

If you are looking for a pre-owned watch the current models of both 'de Cartier' and 'Dumont' are traded between about 5.5 million KRW and 25 million KRW. The older versions Galbee and Carree are traded between 3 million KRW and 10 million KRW and the Santos 100 can be found between 5 million KRW and 25 million KRW.

Santos MM WSSA0029

41.9mm x 35.1mm, Silver

Santos Galbée XL W20098D6

45mm x 32.72mm, Silver

Santos Galbée LM W20011C4

29mm x 29mm, Silver

Of course rarer CPCP or vintage Santos (the 'original' version released before 1978) are sold for tens of millions of KRW.

Santos Dumont gold models by era ⓒ VIVER

Regardless of the type people who wear the Santos often have a relatively clear preference for design. The fact that they chose something other than Rolex or other round-shaped watches means they are more faithful to the design they like than to cost-effectiveness or liquidity (of course liquidity is comparable to Rolex Day-Date Yacht-Master Air-King and Omega Speedmaster).

96054 Cartier Paris Santos Dumont Ultra-Thin ⓒ hairspring

Now all that remains is to decide which Santos to buy for myself or for someone special this Christmas.

Santos Dumont W2006951

44.6mm x 34.6mm, Silver

Santos Dumont LM WSSA0022

43.5mm x 31.4mm, Silver

Santos Dumont XL Limited Edition WGSA0082

46.6mm x 33.9mm, Ivory

Santos 100 LM W20072X7

38mm x 41mm, Silver