Past print advertisement / © Breitling

Breitling is a brand that has shared the history of the chronograph. In particular, It has an inseparable image with the aviation industry, Pilots and the military. The model that best represents this image is the pilot watch Navitimer, Which is widely known.

However, Their activities have not been limited to the sky. They have continuously expanded with various models such as the Superocean for the sea and the Top Time for the land. In this way, Breitling has focused on creating precise and reliable watches that can be used in all environments and situations on Earth. Now, Based on its rich heritage, It encompasses the world as a watch that accompanies various lifestyles and adventures.

Starting the Chronograph Engine

When you think of a mechanical stopwatch chronograph, The silhouette of two push buttons on the side of the case comes to mind first. These buttons operate and stop the chronograph and are responsible for the reset function that returns all hands to zero. The person who invented this core reset function of the chronograph is Adolphe Nicole. Without Nicole's invention, We might still be struggling to return the chronograph hands to zero (is that too extreme?). The history of Breitling begins at the moment this reset function was born. The founder of the brand, Léon Breitling, Sensed the potential of the chronograph and was convinced that stopwatches and chronograph watches would become promising business items.

First ‘single-pusher’ chronograph / © Breitling

Léon Breitling's prediction proved correct. In the early 20th century, As the demand for chronographs with tachymeter scales increased with the rise of motorsports, Breitling expanded its supply. Gaston Breitling, Who succeeded his father, Turned his attention to the emerging field of aviation. His son, Willy Breitling, Popularized the modern chronograph with two pushers. In this way, The Breitling family played a pivotal role in pioneering and industrializing the development of chronograph watches.

At a time when pocket watches were still mainstream, It was inconvenient and cumbersome for pilots to check the time during flight. Therefore, By attaching a strap to a pocket watch with a chronograph function, They enabled quick time reading for safe flights and foresaw the future of Breitling.

Chronomat

Early Chronomat model / © Timeline

In 1941, The Chronomat made its debut. The name Chronomat, A combination of 'Chronograph' and 'Mathematics', Was a chronograph with simple functions such as basic arithmetic and percentage calculations using a rotating bezel scale. The early Chronomat looked similar to today's Navitimer.

The beginning of modern Chronomat design / © Breitling

The current Chronomat design originated from a model created in 1984 for the Italian Air Force aerobatic team 'Frecce Tricolori'. Although it has its roots as a pilot watch, It has transformed into an all-round sports watch. The bezel, Similar to a diver's watch, Features cube-shaped tabs at quarter (15-minute) intervals. The brand's signature detail, Called 'Rider Tabs', Protects the bezel and allows for count-up or count-down functions by swapping the 15-minute and 45-minute tabs. The unique bracelet, Called the 'Rouleaux Bracelet', With cylindrical links, Is also an essential and stylish element of the Chronomat.

Modern Chronomat / © Breitling

Navitimer

After World War II, The importance of airplanes, Which played a significant role during the war, Was newly highlighted. With the use of jet engines, Flight distances increased, Ushering in the era of civil aviation. Against this backdrop, The first Navitimer appeared in 1952.

Ref. 806 / © Breitling

Adopted as the official watch of the A.O.P.A (Aircraft Owners and Pilots Association), The Navitimer further developed the rotating scale inherited from the Chronomat. By combining the rotating scale, Called the 'Slide Rule', And the dial markings, It performed not only arithmetic but also professional flight calculations such as flight speed, Fuel calculation and unit conversion. This actually applied the functions of the E6-B flight computer, Providing direct assistance to pilots during flight.

Navitimer B01 Chronograph / © Breitling

The dense and complex dial design is the unique charm of the Navitimer. The current Navitimer is becoming more like the early models, Such as re-adopting the logo from the era when the A.O.P.A was responsible for distribution. The men's case diameter has expanded to 41, 43 and 46mm to suit modern tastes.

Superocean

In the early 1950s, The diver's watch genre was born for deep-sea diving for scuba diving, Resource and academic exploration. Breitling also joined this new trend and introduced the Superocean in 1957.

The current Superocean collection is divided into Superocean and Superocean Heritage. Among them, The Superocean Heritage inherits the design features of the early models Ref. 1004 (time only) and Ref. 807 (chronograph).

True to Breitling's reputation as a chronograph master, The Superocean collection includes chronographs. These models feature reliable water resistance technology not only in the case back and crown but also in the push buttons. The unique character of the Superocean in the fierce diver's watch market comes from the screws that secure the bezel to the case. The robust bezel for measuring dive time is designed with a screw-in method to ensure safety.

The collection continues its identity by paying homage to the symbolic luminous indexes at 6 and 12 o'clock of the early models.

The Superocean inherits the features of the model nicknamed 'Slow Motion'. The outer part of the dial with minute indexes is finished in white and the second hand is omitted. Instead of a second hand, The chronograph hand operates like a second hand during diving, And the dot at 6 o'clock serves as an indicator, Providing high reliability to divers. Although it is now released as time only, Most of the unique design has been retained. Depending on the model, It offers water resistance from 300m to 1, 000m and presents a variety of charms with vivid colored dials and rainbow indexes.

Top Time

The 1960s saw legendary rock bands such as the Beatles and Rolling Stones, The space race of the Cold War era and the widespread adoption of automobiles. The motorsports craze was in full swing. Inspired by the 'cafe racer' culture of the time, A fast and free lifestyle emerged.

Reflecting the car and bike culture of the 60s, Especially the cafe racer scene, The Top Time targeted young professionals. It was also popular among those fascinated by its bold proportions and graphic dial design. Top Time became a symbol of self-expression for a dynamic generation.

This collection, Which was discontinued in the 1970s, Returned as a reissue in 2020 and has now established itself as part of the collection. In addition to the round case reflecting the retro design and bold colors of the 1960s, Cushion cases are also included in the collection.

Breitling and Technology

Breitling's B01 caliber was first unveiled in 2009. It is Breitling's first in-house self-winding automatic chronograph. Completed after about five years of development, This caliber boasts a 70-hour power reserve and COSC-certified accuracy, Providing stable chronograph operation through a column wheel and vertical clutch mechanism. The B01 caliber is active in Breitling's main collections centered on chronograph functions. Breitling is collaborating with Tudor's movement company Kenissi to exchange movements.

Through the collaboration that began in 2017, Breitling provides its B01 caliber and receives the MT5612 caliber from Tudor's movement company Kenissi, Complementing each other's technical capabilities. The B01 is transformed into Tudor's MT5813, And the MT5612 is transformed into Breitling's B20.

As of 2013, Breitling had received about 150, 000 COSC certifications, And the cumulative number of certifications from 2000 to 2015 exceeded 2.4 million. This means that Breitling offers accurate and reliable watches in a variety of genres and designs. In addition, It fundamentally secures its uniqueness and individuality with in-house calibers.

Premier collection equipped with in-house movement<br/>© Breitling

In addition to its flagship collections such as Navitimer, Chronomat, Superocean family and Top Time, Breitling has a very large catalog. It boasts a wide range of collections that can satisfy various tastes and lifestyles, Including the classic all-rounder chronograph Premier, The tough Avenger and the Classic AVI that recreates vintage pilot watches. Based on its long history and rich heritage, Breitling creates watches that encompass the sky, Sea and land. Going beyond a simple tool, It constantly evolves by presenting lifestyles suitable for each era and space.

Felix

Writer

Watch columnist