not changing old friend
Explorer 1 evolution process
ROLEX

An Unchanging Longtime Friend

The Explorer 1 from the Professional line does not have any special features. There is not even the common Cyclops lens and it maintains a simple design with a smooth bezel on the Oyster case. This watch has preserved almost the same form as when it was born during the era of exploration, When people reached the highest, Deepest and farthest places possible for humans, Going back over 70 years of history.

Change can sometimes be positive and sometimes negative. It is not ideal for a product you purchased with a significant amount of money to undergo frequent changes according to trends and be pushed aside as an old generation. Would it not be most ideal to maintain the original identity for a long time and upgrade according to user convenience?

The model I am introducing today is the Explorer 1, A watch that perfectly fits Rolex’s philosophy of a “practical wristwatch with an unchanging design.”

The Birth of the Explorer

In 1953, Mountaineers Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary, Who were the first to conquer the Himalayas, Reportedly carried the Rolex Oyster Perpetual, The prototype of the Explorer. The Explorer, Born from the spirit of this century’s adventure, Was designed to operate even in the harshest environments humans can face. It was introduced with the most standard size of 36mm and indexes with excellent legibility. This 36mm size will continue to hold significant meaning in the Explorer line.

The Prototype of Modern Explorer Design
Ref. 114270

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After a few generational changes, In 1989, Ref. 14270 was introduced, Featuring the large and neat 3, 6, 9 indexes that are almost identical to the current Explorer. Then in 2001, Ref. 114270, A model that long-time Rolex users have likely heard of, Was released with almost no changes in appearance. The combined production period of these two models exceeds 20 years. While there have been advancements in the bracelet, Dial and movement, The unchanging design and size have made them beloved for a long time and even now, After discontinuation, There is still high demand.
Ref. 114270 was officially sold in Korea and was priced in the low 6 million won range at the time. Despite being officially distributed in Korea, It is still one of the more difficult watches to find in good condition on the secondary market. This is likely because the pre-owned watch market was not yet active and many watches may have flowed into larger overseas markets due to users’ lack of care. Watches produced at the end of its production are now traded at high prices and this trend is expected to continue.

Explorer 1 14270

Explorer 1 14270

36mm, Black, Oyster

link
Explorer 1 114270

Explorer 1 114270

36mm, Black, Oyster

link

Breaking the 36mm Formula with 39mm,
Ref. 214270

Then at Baselworld 2010, There was a surprising announcement. For nearly 60 years since its birth in 1953, The Explorer’s 36mm size had been strictly maintained, But now it was increased by 3mm. Watches are very sensitive to size. Even a 1mm difference can be an issue, So a 3mm change was quite shocking. Just as it takes time to break a stereotype, Users found the 39mm Explorer unfamiliar at first.

From the left, White gold indexes, Chromalight indexes

From the left, White gold indexes, Chromalight indexes

Interestingly, There was a noticeable change during the 10-year production period. From 2010 to the first half of 2016, The earlier models had 3-6-9 indexes in white gold and the hands were the same length as before, Making them look a bit short compared to the larger 39mm case. From the second half of 2016 until discontinuation, The models featured Chromalight (luminous material) on the indexes and slightly longer hands for better balance. The latter is priced a bit higher in the resale market.

Ref. 214270 maintained a reasonable price (around 7 million won in Korea) and design during its approximately 10-year production period and gradually received positive feedback. Currently, It is relatively easy to find well-maintained pieces, But models with the new warranty card issued at the end of production are expected to become harder to find due to their rarity.

Explorer 1 214270

Explorer 1 214270

39mm, Black, Oyster

link
Explorer 1 214270

Explorer 1 214270

39mm, Black, Oyster

link

Returning to the Prototype Ref. 124270

@ watchgecko.com

@ watchgecko.com

Most recently, In 2021, The Explorer 1 underwent another transformation. The 36mm size, Which had been maintained since the early models, Was revived. The compact size, Black dial and shining 3-6-9 indexes, Which best suit the Explorer, Quickly gained enthusiastic support from users who had long searched for discontinued 36mm models, Instantly joining the ranks of premium watches. The newly equipped movement and even the font placement on the dial, Which evokes nostalgia, Show the brand’s meticulous attention to detail.
Why did Rolex return to the past during a time when larger watches are trending? Is it a reversal of the decision, Believing that 36mm is the most suitable for the Explorer, Or is there another reason? In any case, The modern rebirth of Ref. 124270 seems to be a “practical wristwatch with an unchanging design” that can be with you like an “unchanging longtime friend.” :)

Explorer 1 124270

Explorer 1 124270

36mm, Black, Oyster

link

Samuel

Writer

Can talk about watches for 120 hours straight

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