What is Vintage?

Vintage is a commonly used term. Vintage shop, Vintage look or fashion and so on. There is no clear definition of how old something must be but it certainly refers to something old. In fact, The origin of the word vintage comes from wine.

Vintage Wine © Shutter Stock

Just as grapes or wines harvested in a particular year are called the 1980 vintage or 1999 vintage, The term originated from wine. The sudden appearance of wine may make the meaning of vintage seem even more complicated. In this article, We will look at how to define vintage in watches.

Old watches,
but how old is old?

As with other items, Vintage in watches implies age. However, There is no set standard for how old a watch must be to be called vintage. In extreme cases, Discontinued watches that are no longer produced are sometimes called vintage but it is more reasonable to refer to these as dead stock.

Chrono24, New old stock search results © Chrono24

This is a term usually used in the apparel industry and refers to inventory that remains unsold in storage after discontinuation. I believe this also applies to watches. If this dead stock remains unsold and is kept for some reason or is sold but left unused in its original state, It is called New Old Stock, Or NOS. This is probably the most desirable condition for watch enthusiasts and collectors. The watch has aged but remains in brand new condition. Of course, The packaging or papers may not look new due to the passage of time. The watch itself has not been used for a long time so there should be no problem with the movement but an overhaul may be necessary. There is no set standard for how much time must pass before something can be called New Old Stock but perhaps at least 10 years after discontinuation is needed to call it truly 'old' stock.

Antique

Antique Watches © watchempire.ie

In any case, Everyone agrees that vintage watches are old watches. There is still no consensus on exactly how old. When searching for information about vintage watches, Another term often appears together. That is antique. Again, There is no clear standard for age but one thing is certain: antique refers to watches that are older than vintage. Let us put off defining antique until the definition of vintage is more established.

Young Timer

Rolex is a good example for finding the definition of vintage because a single model goes through several generations. Let us take the familiar and well-known Submariner as an example. The current Ref. 126610LN is still in the collection so there is nothing special to mention but let us use it as a reference point for the present.

Ref. 116610LN / Ref. 126610LN ©Rolex

The previous generation Ref. 116610LN and 126610LN differ by only 1mm in diameter but there is not much difference in appearance. The biggest change is the movement, Which is like changing the engine in a car, So it can be considered a new generation. Then is there any problem using or maintaining the Ref. 116610LN? Although the engine has changed, It can still be serviced and overhauled at official and private service centers, And if there is damage to external parts, Replacement is not difficult. There is no problem with daily use and since it has not been long since it was discontinued, It does not feel particularly 'old'. It still feels very much current.

Rolex Submariner 16610LN © watchclub.com

What about the Ref. 16610LN, A generation before that? Compared to the Ref. 116610LN, It uses the same Cal. 3135 movement but differs in case shape, Dial, Indexes and most notably, The aluminum bezel. Since Rolex produces and distributes so many watches, The Ref. 16610LN, Produced from 1987 and discontinued around 2010, Is still suitable for daily use. However, If it is from the late 1980s or 1990s, No matter how good the condition, The passage of time is evident. Still, It is a bit ambiguous to call a watch in such good working condition vintage. This is where the concept of Young Timer comes in. Originally used in the automotive world before being applied to watches, It refers to well-maintained cars about 20 to 30 years old. If you think of cars made in the 1990s or early 2000s, It is easy to understand. In that sense, The Ref. 16610LN is best described as a Young Timer.

Vintage

Vintage usually means at least 30 years since discontinuation. Using the Submariner as an example, Models like the Ref. 168000, Produced for a short period before the Ref. 16610LN, Or the earlier Ref. 16800, Can be considered the starting point of vintage.

Rolex Submariner 16800 © bobswatches.com

The Cal. 3035 movement used in these models provided the foundation for the later Cal. 3135 and is now considered one of the great movements. However, Servicing or maintaining the Cal. 3035 is a bit more inconvenient compared to Young Timer models or current models. In the case of Rolex, Even vintage models can usually be serviced and parts are available through official customer service, But with other brands, Repairs may take longer or parts may be harder to obtain. Just as machines have a lifespan, So do movements, So even if well maintained, They may not be as accurate as when first purchased.

Rolex Submariner 168000 © watchclub.com

If a watch is even older, Having experienced about half a century, Accuracy is even harder to expect and if you are unlucky, The watch company may have closed and official parts may not be available. You may need to have replacement parts made. In that case, The original function of telling time may become secondary. More important may be the experiences shared with the watch or, If it was inherited, The memories of the person who passed it down.

Vintage generally means more than 30 years since discontinuation and there may be difficulties with accuracy or maintenance. Therefore, Depending on the condition, It may not be suitable for daily use. The requirement of being 'old' for vintage does not simply mean the passage of time. It also means that the characteristics or significance of the era in which the vintage was made are present. That is why it is valuable to feel and enjoy the era of vintage, Separate from the present, And vintage watches should also be valued from this perspective.