The First Impression of a Watch Changes with the Bezel

The bezel is not only responsible for securing the crystal to the watch case but is also the most important element in shaping the face of the watch along with the dial. Positioned at the very front, It determines the first impression of the watch.

Bezels can be largely divided into two types: functional bezels used on professional watches and bezels found on classic lines such as the Datejust. Since there are too many types of bezels to cover at once, This time we will focus only on the bezels of the classic line.

Smooth Bezel and Domed Bezel

From the top: Smooth Bezel, Domed Bezel / ⓒ Rolex

First, The clean-cut smooth bezel and the rounded domed bezel are most traditionally used on models like the Oyster Perpetual and Datejust. This simple design is a type of bezel that has been traditionally used in many watches, Not just Rolex.

Smooth bezels and domed bezels are usually used differently depending on the size. Smooth is applied to 39mm and above, While domed bezels are used for 36mm and the lady size of 28mm. Professional line models such as the Explorer Ref. 214270 and Air-King in 39mm are also released with smooth bezels. While not always the case, There is a tendency for larger watches to have smooth bezels and those 36mm or smaller to have domed bezels. The Oyster Perpetual line is only released in stainless steel, So it comes with a domed bezel.

So, What is the visual difference between the domed bezel Datejust and the Oyster Perpetual? Aside from the presence of the cyclops lens and the difference between matte and polished center links, They look almost identical.

From the left: Datejust, Oyster Perpetual / ⓒ Rolex

The Origin of the Fluted Bezel

ⓒ Rolex

The fluted bezel, With its serrated shape, Is a symbol of Rolex's luxurious design. The original reason for developing the fluted bezel was not just for its beautiful appearance. It was developed to ensure perfect water resistance by tightly fitting the case and the front glass with a serrated tool. Even now, Special tools are used to secure it to the case.

Additionally, The fluted bezel is made only from gold to match its unique luxurious style. Likewise, The Day-Date line, Which is made only from gold or higher materials, Naturally uses the fluted bezel frequently. The platinum fluted bezel for the Day-Date was released for the first time this year (2022), And it seems that the smooth bezel will no longer be produced.

Looking at user preferences, There is a tendency to favor either the fluted bezel & Jubilee bracelet combination or the domed bezel & Oyster bracelet combination. In particular, The fluted bezel and Jubilee combination, Which is easily recognized as a Rolex, Is the most popular.

However, Preferences are as wide as the sea, And VIVER respects your choices. There are certainly those who prefer the simplicity of the domed or smooth bezel. We hope this guide will help you make your choice.