The Dazzling New Releases of Audemars Piguet

Since the beginning of this year Audemars Piguet has been unveiling a series of new models. Among them some very dazzling watches have caught attention such as the Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon and the Code 11.59 Ultra Complication Universelle. Their names are as long as their impressive appearance and remarkable functions. To better understand these unfamiliar model names it would be helpful to first define what a complication is.

Royal Oak Flying Tourbillon / ⓒ SJX Watches

Code 11.59 Ultra Complication Universelle / ⓒ Deployant

Tourbillon and Grand Complication

First of all a complication refers to any additional function beyond simply indicating the time with hour and minute hands. When a watch has several complex functions at once it is classified as a grand complication. Examples include the tourbillon which automatically corrects errors caused by gravity the perpetual calendar which accurately sets the date for all twelve months including leap years the minute repeater which chimes the time on demand and the moon phase indicator which shows the phases of the moon.

Breguet Classique 5355
Grande Complication Tourbillon Messidor
/ ⓒ Watch time

The more prestigious the watch brand the more they focus on developing these complex grand complications using them as a symbol of their superior watchmaking skills. However such dazzling watches are rarely found at Rolex. Is this because Rolex lacks technical expertise or is there another reason?

The Brand Strategy Pursued by Rolex

The value Rolex pursues is a robust and precise 'practical' watch. Rolex is so steadfast in its philosophy that current models have not strayed far from the design of the original Oyster Perpetual developed in 1931. Since a watch is a machine a more complex structure means more parts which can reduce durability and longevity. Instead Rolex spares no effort in maximizing performance for the functions it does pursue. This is well reflected in the straightforward design of today’s models.

A More Economical Choice

Above all it seems that Rolex has made decisions focused on profitability. For example the Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Ultra Complication mentioned earlier retails for over two billion won. Other grand complication watches easily exceed one billion won. Because these watches are so complex and difficult to make production quantities are low and manufacturing takes longer.

It is estimated that Rolex produces between 850, 000 and one million watches annually. In contrast the so-called 'Big Three' of luxury watches—Patek Philippe Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin—have very limited production. Audemars Piguet produces 50, 000 to 70, 000 watches a year Vacheron Constantin 20, 000 to 25, 000 (source: Bloomberg) and Patek Philippe is believed to have produced less than one million watches in total since its founding in 1839 (source: Christie’s).

Although Rolex watches are mass-produced each one must pass strict quality control and fifteen inspections before reaching customers. Rolex even operates its own chronometer certification institute to ensure accuracy. As more complex complications are added design becomes more difficult and inspection time production volume and manufacturing costs are affected.

By maintaining its unique luxury while offering robust and reliable watches at reasonable prices accessible to many people Rolex’s brand philosophy is well reflected today.

ⓒ xupes

Rolex’s
Grand Complication

Ref. 4113 ⓒ loupiosity

Ref. 6062 ⓒ montrespubliques

Rolex has in fact released grand complication models in the past. The Ref. 4113 released in 1942 is Rolex’s only split-seconds chronograph. Only twelve pieces were produced. There were only two references with three calendar functions. The Ref. 8171 'Padellone' released in 1949 and the Ref. 6062 with an Oyster Perpetual case and COSC certification released in 1950 are so rare that they can only be found at major auction houses. A special edition of the Ref. 6062 made for Bao Dai the last emperor of Vietnam was sold at auction for five million dollars in 2017. However for the reasons mentioned above grand complication watches have disappeared from the Rolex lineup.

The efforts of each brand to reach the pinnacle in their respective fields continue to bring joy to watch enthusiasts.