A Diver Watch with a Distinct Edge Sea-Dweller

The Submariner is widely regarded as the icon that represents not only Rolex but also the diver watch itself. However Rolex's dedication to creating the perfect diver watch could not be satisfied at that point. Thus the Sea-Dweller was born. Along with Rolex's prestige it is instantly recognizable by its signature design and is loved as a fashion watch. Yet the early models were released as upgraded versions of the Submariner with a clear purpose as professional diver watches.

Although it is less popular than the Submariner the Sea-Dweller has earned numerous 'first' titles in terms of technology. I would like to share the story of the Sea-Dweller. Let us look together at how the Sea-Dweller has evolved from the very first Ref. 1665 to Ref. 126600 over more than half a century.

The Birth of the Sea-Dweller
(1967 ~ 1983)

The 1960s when Rolex was focused on developing a technically superior watch than the Submariner was an era of 'exploration.' Humanity had conquered the land and now the remaining frontiers were space and the deep sea. It was also a time of advancements in navigation technology and oil resource discovery and development. For saturation divers who had to stay at greater depths for extended periods for building oil platforms and marine research the durability of watches had to be even stronger for their safe ascent.

After years of research Rolex launched the first Sea-Dweller in 1967 through collaboration with the US Navy and the French deep-sea diving company COMEX. It was the first watch to automatically release helium gas (Helium Escape Valve / HEV). The greatest achievement was preventing the crystal from popping out due to the accumulation of helium gas. In 1970 the familiar Triplock triple lock system was introduced. It created three sealed chambers inside the crown tube and boasted even more complete water resistance.

Ref. 1665 / ⓒ Watchfinder &co

The Prototype of the Modern Sea-Dweller
Ref. 16660 (1978 ~ 1989)

Ref. 16660 / ⓒ The Keystone

In 1978 the Sea-Dweller Ref. 16660 completely removed the SUBMARINER text from the dial and established the Sea-Dweller design we see today. The movement also evolved to Cal. 3035 and the helium valve was enlarged allowing diving up to 4, 000ft (=1, 200m). This 1, 200m water resistance is still maintained in the current lineup. Among the Sea-Dweller line the old-school aluminum bezel the matte dial of the early production models and the use of tritium for the luminous material give it a strong vintage charm.

The Evolution of Luminous Material
Ref. 16600 (1988 ~ 2008)

Released in the late 1980s Ref. 16600 can be considered the last Sea-Dweller to retain the classic Rolex feel before the transition to ceramic.

During its long 20-year production period the luminous material evolved from tritium to Luminova and then to Super-Luminova. By looking at the markings at the bottom of the dial you can roughly estimate the production period depending on the luminous material used. The movement was upgraded to Cal. 3135 for greater precision and the solid end link was first applied to the Sea-Dweller at this time. As it was produced for the longest period it is relatively easier to find pre-owned models.

Sea-Dweller 16600

40mm black oyster

The Return of the Sea-Dweller A Short but Powerful Impression
Ref. 116600 (2014 ~ 2017)

From 2008 to 2014 for six years the Sea-Dweller was discontinued as the Deep Sea Ref. 116660 took the position of the ultimate diver watch.

Then in 2014 the Sea-Dweller was reborn as Ref. 116600. It maintained the minimalist design fundamental to diver watches but appeared with a Cerachrom bezel and a thicker maxi case. Sensitive to industry trends the lugs also became larger and it evolved into a true professional watch suitable for heavy-duty work. While there were consumers who preferred the previous case the harmony of modernity and robustness was recognized even by purists.

Although it was produced for only three years and was succeeded by the upgraded Ref. 126600 in 2017 Ref. 116600 is remembered among watch enthusiasts as an almost perfect 'future classic' watch.

Sea-Dweller 116600

40mm black oyster

Deep Sea 116660

44mm D-blue oyster

The Ultimate Sea-Dweller
Ref. 126600 43mm (2017 ~ )

In 2017 to mark its 50th anniversary the Sea-Dweller introduced another new model at Baselworld. The current Ref. 126600 Sea-Dweller model is equipped with a crystal lens for the first time. It is also the first Sea-Dweller to be produced in a 43mm size giving it a more substantial presence than the Submariner.

When it was first introduced it deviated from the traditional image of the Sea-Dweller and received some backlash from fans. This could be seen as dissatisfaction arising from enforced uniformity. The red SEA-DWELLER font that pays homage to the early version adds a sporty touch and alleviates the heaviness and pressure of the larger size while asserting a stronger identity.

Although the Sea-Dweller has undergone major changes has it not become even more faithful to its 'functionality'? It seems to have evolved into a watch that is even more suitable for those who have successfully surfaced from extreme stress and pressure.

Sea-Dweller 126600

43mm black oyster

The Future of the Sea-Dweller

While this article was being completed news arrived about the release of the Deep Sea Challenge Ref. 126067. It is now an interesting time to see how the new Sea-Dweller models to be released in the future will showcase their own identity between the sporty nature of the Submariner and the grandeur of the Deep Sea. As a goal-oriented watch that steadfastly follows its own path our VIVER team is also looking forward to the next challenge of the Sea-Dweller.