Classic. This is a word commonly used not only in music, Art, And literature but also in everyday life. However, When trying to define its meaning, It often becomes vague and elusive in our minds. While the term "classic" can be replaced with "timeless" in most fields, It still feels about 2% short. If we say that this missing piece is "something that retains its value regardless of changing times, " it fits perfectly. This is also the most suitable way to describe Breguet.

Breguet’s Clients

After completing his apprenticeship as a watchmaker, Abraham Louis Breguet moved to France in 1775 and opened his workshop on Île de la Cité in Paris. At that time, Watches were expensive items used to check the time. They were also machines that concentrated advanced technology and served as objects of amusement. Therefore, The demand for watches was inevitably limited to the wealthy classes such as nobles and royalty.

Abraham Louis Breguet, Starting his own business at the Conciergerie on Île de la Cité, Paris © Breguet

The most famous among Breguet’s clients was Queen Marie Antoinette of France, Who ordered pocket watch number 160. Unfortunately, Both the client and the maker passed away before its completion, Making number 160 a tragic masterpiece. The request was to create the ultimate complication.

Marie Antoinette watch No. 160 restored as Marie Antoinette N°1160 © Breguet

This pocket watch is a complication among complications, Equipped with a chronograph, Perpetual calendar, Minute repeater, Celestial functions that display the movement of the stars, And even a thermometer. It was such a technological marvel that even the modern recreation, Number 1160, Is said to be not a perfect replica. According to Breguet’s 1810 archive, The Queen of Naples was also a client. There is a record of her ordering a complication watch with a thin oval case and repeater function. This watch is the origin of Breguet’s iconic women’s watch, The Reine de Naples, And is recorded as a wristwatch (which Breguet claims to be the first wristwatch).

The Man Who Advanced Watchmaking by 200 Years

French royalty and nobility, As well as foreigners, Were clients of Breguet for a clear reason. It was because Breguet’s watches were the finest. Breguet played a pioneering role both technically and aesthetically, Captivating countless people and inventing various mechanisms and details that are still used in modern watchmaking. For this reason, Abraham Louis Breguet is called the man who advanced watchmaking by 200 years.

Breguet Perpetual 3797 © Breguet

Tourbillon (1801) is Breguet’s most famous invention. As a balance mechanism considered a complication, The name comes from the French word "tourbillon" (whirlwind), Inspired by its rotating movement. The tourbillon slowly rotates the balance inside a component called the cage. The balance is fitted with a hairspring that expands and contracts regularly to maintain a constant oscillation. For a watch to tick accurately, This must work perfectly. At the time, Heavy steel hairsprings were deformed by gravity, Negatively affecting accuracy. The tourbillon slowly rotates the balance so the hairspring retains its original shape, Ensuring accurate timekeeping. That’s not all. The shock protection device "pare-chute" (1790), Which prevents the balance wheel’s pivot (the thinnest shaft in a watch, Vulnerable to shocks) from bending or breaking, And the "perpétuelle" (1792), The origin of today’s automatic movements, Are also Breguet’s inventions.

From left, Breguet Ref. 1775, Ref. 5827 / © Phillips

In addition to mechanisms ahead of their time, Details such as the crescent-tipped "Breguet hands, " the cursive Arabic numeral indexes called "Breguet numerals, " and the guilloché dial cannot be overlooked. Originally, The guilloché dial was a functional approach to improve legibility by engraving regular patterns on a gold dial and covering it with silver to reduce glare. Today, Along with Breguet hands and numerals, It is one of the brand’s signature details, Collectively known as the Breguet style, Which clearly distinguishes it from other brands.

Classic Collection

In 1972, Several models that became the roots of today’s Classic Collection appeared. With these watches, The Classic Collection began to establish itself in earnest. Now, You can enjoy the great legacy built by Abraham Louis Breguet over 200 years ago not as a pocket watch but as a wristwatch. The intricate and elegant details of the Breguet style and complications such as the tourbillon might not be available today if not for Abraham Louis Breguet. Thanks to the Classic Collection, Which inherits everything from Breguet, The brand is more deserving of the name "classic" than any other watch brand.

Classic Ref. 7137

The origin of the Classic Ref. 7137, Which reveals classical beauty, Is the Classic Ref. 3130 introduced in the mid-1970s. Going further back, The quarter repeater pocket watch number 5 from 1787, Based on the perpetual function, Is the foundation of the Classic Ref. 3130.

Breguet Perpetual Pocket Watch No.5 / © Hodinkee

Breguet Classic Ref. 7137 / © Hodinkee

The original functions have been arranged as moon phase, Power reserve indicator, And pointer date, Beautifully placed on the delicate guilloché dial. While maintaining the overall framework and going through minor changes such as the Classic Ref. 3137, It has evolved into today’s Classic Ref. 7137. The size has been increased to 39mm to suit current trends, And blue has been introduced to the dial. The guilloché pattern has also been updated for a more modern feel.

Classic Ref. 7337

The small dial just below the moon phase and the day-date windows spread to the left and right create a face that captures both balance and lyricism in the Classic Ref. 7337.

Breguet Classic Ref. 7337 / © Hodinkee

The Classic Ref. 7337 is the successor to pocket watch number 3833, Sold to the general public in 1823. Like the Classic 7137, The Classic Ref. 3337 is the original wristwatch version. In the era of Ref. 3XXX, There were often models with skeletonized movements and engraving decorations, Making them highly attractive for collectors, And Ref. 3337 is one of them. The Classic Ref. 3337 omitted the seconds hand for perfect symmetry, But with the introduction of the Classic Ref. 7137, The seconds hand was revived between 4 and 5 o’clock, Adding vitality to the dial.

Type XX Collection

Although not widely known, The Breguet family made significant contributions to French aviation history. Louis Charles Breguet established Breguet Aviation in 1911 and produced numerous aircraft. In the 1950s, Breguet supplied the Type 20, Which met pilot watch standards, To the French Air Force. Later, Civilian pilot watches were also sold. The Type XX is a pilot’s watch, But as expected from Breguet, It features classic and elegant details. In 2023, The Type XX Collection was completely reborn. The classical appearance based on the first-generation design from the 1950s and the newly developed automatic chronograph movement mark the beginning of a new era.

Type 20 Ref. 2057

The new Type 20 (XX) Collection was first introduced with two models. The military version, Type 20 Ref. 2057, Was designed based on the model supplied to the French Air Force from 1955 to 1959.

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph Ref. 2057 / © watcheswiss

Of the two counters placed on either side, The 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock is larger than the small seconds at 9 o’clock for easier reading. The coin-edge bezel with a luminous tip at 12 o’clock and the large onion-shaped crown are designed for pilots to operate easily during flight. The Caliber 7281, Which is installed, Supports the flyback chronograph, An essential function for pilot watches, And measures 1/10 seconds with a frequency of 36, 000 vph. The details and functions prove the authenticity of the Type XX Collection.

Type XX Ref. 2067

Introduced alongside the Type 20 Ref. 2057, The Type XX Ref. 2067 is the civilian version.

Breguet Type 20 Chronograph Ref. 2067 / © watcheswiss

Unlike the Type 20 Ref. 2057, Which has two counters on the dial, The Type XX Ref. 2067 has three. With an additional 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, It can count longer periods. The counter at 3 o’clock has been changed to a 15-minute counter. Since the model is based on those supplied to the French Flight Test Center (Centre d'Essais en Vol) and Naval Aviation, It is designed to measure the 15 minutes needed for pre-flight checks. This is one of the features of the Type Number 2998 from 1957. The bidirectional rotating bezel with a 12-hour scale and the use of alpha hands faithfully reproduce the classic pilot’s watch. The engine of the Type XX Ref. 2067 is Caliber 728, Which has the same basic specifications as the Caliber 7281 in the Type 20 Ref. 2057.

Marine Collection

Breguet does not have a watch that can dive deep underwater like a diver’s watch. However, This does not mean Breguet has no connection to water. In 1780, Breguet began making the "marine chronometer, " an essential and highly accurate timepiece for navigation, And started full-scale production in 1815. The archive also confirms that a marine chronometer named number 3136 was supplied to the French Royal Navy in 1822. Combining this historical background with the Classic Collection, Breguet introduced the Marine in 1990, A watch for marine sports. The first-generation Marine, Based on the Classic Collection and enhanced with sports features such as 50m water resistance, Evolved into the more sports-oriented second generation (2005). The current third generation offers even more refined details with the theme of the sea and marine sports.

Marine Ref. 5517

Although the Marine Ref. 5517, With its basic three hands and date function, Is the most fundamental model in the Marine Collection, It best expresses the details unique to the Marine.

Breguet Marine Ref. 5517 Titanium, Blue © Breguet

Breguet Marine Ref. 5517 Gold, Sunburst Slate © Breguet

With the third generation, The lugs were changed to appear integrated with the bracelet, Rather than the usual design. As a result, The very short lug-to-lug distance allows even those with slender wrists to wear Breguet’s sports watches. The steel case experimented with in the second generation has been replaced by lightweight titanium, With options in white gold and rose gold as well. The titanium case features a dark blue sunray dial reminiscent of the deep sea, While the gold case is engraved with dynamic wave patterns in guilloché, Reminding us that even in sports watches, Breguet is synonymous with classic.

Marine Hora Mundi Ref. 5557

The Marine Hora Mundi Ref. 5557 is a watch that brings to life the history of navigating the world’s oceans with the marine chronometer as a guide. The continents and oceans decorated on the dial in Breguet style seem to prove the history of making marine chronometers.

Breguet Marine Ref. 5557 © Breguet

The Marine Hora Mundi Ref. 5557 features the ability to set two time zones at will and switch between them quickly and easily. For example, When traveling abroad, You can switch between local time and home time or any two chosen time zones with a single button at 8 o’clock on the case. This works together with the day-night indicator and city indicator. It is a wonderful function for travelers exploring foreign lands as well as for time travelers.

At VIVER, The number of listings for Breguet Classic, Type 20, And Marine products is steadily increasing. Experience the unchanging charm of the classic.