The Datejust is a classic model that every watch enthusiast has dreamed of at least once. Since its debut in 1945, It has become the most iconic model representing Rolex. The Datejust has been released in various materials, Movements and combinations since its first appearance, Offering a wide range of choices. For this reason, Many people wonder which option to purchase.

In this article, We will compare the old and new models of the Datejust, Which VIVER readers are most curious about. We will look at everything from exterior design to movement and bracelet, Aiming to provide helpful information for those considering which model suits them best. Experience the charm of various models and use this as a reference to help with your choice.

Vintage Datejust

In the domestic market, Vintage Datejust usually refers to the 16XX, 160XX and 162XX series. (For convenience, We will focus on the representative 1601, 16014 and 16234.)

Datejust Basic Specifications Comparison

The appearance of these three models is almost identical. Perhaps because of this, The price of the Datejust tends to increase for newer models. In particular, The 1601 does not have a quickset function and many Jubilee bracelets are excessively stretched, So you can purchase this model at a lower price than you might expect for a Rolex.

Rolex Datejust 1601 ⓒ windvintage.com

So is the low price the only advantage of the 1601? That is not the case.

Rolex Datejust 1601 ⓒ The Watch Club London

The dial of the 1601 is slightly sloped at the edge, Resembling a pie pan, So it is called a pie pan dial. This dial detail is the biggest factor that distinguishes the 1601 from other Datejust models. Of course, Since there is no quickset, You have to turn the crown 24 hours to adjust the date.

Rolex Datejust 16014 ⓒ bobswatches.com

It is unfortunate that the 16014 does not have a quickset, But it is a good choice for those who do not like the modern look of Luminova lume and sapphire glass.
The 16234 is a five-digit Rolex that is not overly flashy like the six-digit Datejust, But is equipped with options that are not inconvenient for daily use. The 3135 is a proven movement also used in six-digit Rolex models and even models like the 16200 use the same 904L steel as current models.

Datejust Bracelet ⓒ Rolli Works

However, For Datejust models up to the five-digit series, You need to carefully check the condition of the Jubilee bracelet. If the bracelet is stretched, Official service centers only offer replacement, Not repair.
There are specialized companies that can repair them, But since they replace the pins inside the Jubilee links with new ones, There is a possibility that non-genuine parts may be mixed in, So please be careful.

116234 vs 126234 Detailed Comparison

Rolex datejust 126234 (left) 116234 (right)
ⓒ Watchuseek

1. Dial

For baton index models, The 116234 has a railroad track at the edge. The closed rectangular markers at the edge of the dial resemble a railroad track, Hence the name. This detail has disappeared from all baton index models of the 126234. Except for dials with diamonds or mother-of-pearl, Only the white Roman index dial retains the railroad track. Perhaps this was to clearly differentiate it from the Day-Date.

2. Movement

The traditional Cal. 3135 and the latest Cal. 3235 are used. Cal. 3135 is a traditional movement that has been proven over a long period, While Cal. 3235 features Rolex's Chronergy escapement and other new technologies, Improving power reserve and efficiency.

3. Case

As with the Submariner and GMT-Master II, The lugs of the 126234 are thinner than those of the 116234. Therefore, The 116234 feels slightly bolder on the wrist compared to the 126234.
The thickness has also been slightly reduced in the 126234. If the 116234 was slightly thicker than the Explorer 1, The 126234 is just a bit thinner.

4. Bracelet

Rolex Datejust Bracelet ⓒ Everest bands

From the left, The bracelets are for the 126234, 116234 and Day-Date. The 116234 uses a hidden clasp similar to the Day-Date, While the 126234 has been changed to a standard Oyster bracelet clasp. The elegance of the hidden clasp is gone, But convenience has been greatly improved with the addition of Easylink, Just like other professional models.
Also, The shape of the end links of the Jubilee bracelet is slightly different. The 116234's end links are designed for unity with the lugs, While the 126234's end links are more finely divided for unity with the Jubilee links.

5. Lume

The 116234 uses Super-LumiNova, While the 126234 uses Rolex's proprietary blue Chromalight.

6. Date Window

The 116234 features a roulette date wheel, With odd numbers in red. In contrast, The 126234 uses a standard date wheel. Therefore, If you see red date numbers at a glance, It is a 116234.

Black Lacquer Dial Datejust

Recently, The popularity of black lacquer dials has increased significantly. This may be one of the reasons for the recent surge in popularity of the Explorer 1. If I were to recommend an alternative within the Datejust line, It would be the 116234 black baton index model.

Rolex Datejust 116234 © Bulang and Sons

Unlike the current models that only have a sunray black dial, The 116234 offers a combination of baton indexes and a black lacquer dial. Considering the recent premium on the Explorer 1 and the relatively low price of the 116234 compared to the 126234, It is an attractive option. Since it is even more affordable than the less popular combinations of the 126234, I highly recommend this model to those who are drawn to black lacquer dials and are looking for an Explorer 1.

You can find many variations of the Datejust on VIVER. This is a great opportunity to experience the heritage of Rolex at a reasonable price.

Datejust 36 116234

36mm, Black/Diamond, Jubilee

Datejust 36 126234

36mm, Bright Black, Jubilee

Datejust 36 16234

36mm, White, Jubilee

Datejust 36 16014

36mm, Silver

Datejust 36 1601

36mm, Silver, Jubilee