What are the requirements to reach the top, In other words, What does it take to become a high-end watch company? Nowhere in the world is there a clear definition of what high-end must be. However, Everyone has an idea of what a high-end brand should look like. While each person may have a different ideal or expectation of high-end, There is certainly some common ground. Here, I would like to bring together the shared thoughts that can be considered the requirements of high-end.

Tradition and History

Patek Philippe's Calatrava and Nautilus. Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak. Vacheron Constantin's Overseas which continues from the 222. A. Lange & Söhne's Lange 1. Jaeger-LeCoultre's Reverso. Blancpain's Fifty Fathoms. The common factor among these iconic pieces is tradition. Some of these watches have a history of over 30 years, Others more than 90 years. These watches started from a single model, Gave rise to derivatives, And have continuously evolved. In other words, When innovation and evolution accumulate, They become history and tradition.

The history of Patek Philippe since 1839 / © PatekPhillipe

A watch company without innovation and evolution finds it difficult to survive, And thus cannot carry on tradition or write its own history. Especially among high-end brands, It is not uncommon to find companies with a history of over 100 or even 200 years. In Europe, Where tradition and history are highly valued, This aspect holds great importance, And it is also why it is difficult to find a high-end brand without history and tradition.

In-house Movement (Original Functions)

AP 2121 movement based on Jaeger-LeCoultre's legendary JLC Cal.920 / © Revolutionwatch

High-end brands, Even when purchasing movements, Do not use them as they are or require special custom specifications to maintain the desired quality and pride. Eventually, These brands realized that the best way to fully reflect their own intentions (functions) was to make their own movements, Leading to the production of in-house movements.

As competition among watch companies intensified, They stopped selling the core engine (movement) to other companies to avoid weakening their own competitiveness. Consumers also began to dislike the idea of sharing the same engine with lower-priced brands. After all, Who would be happy to pay a high price for a watch that shares the same movement as a less expensive brand? The production of in-house movements may seem complicated for various reasons, But in short, It is to achieve originality and differentiation. Developing and exclusively using in-house movements is both a reason and a requirement for being high-end.

Watch produced with reference to JLC920 caliber / © Revolutionwatch

Perfect Finishing

Finishing is a crucial element in high-end watches. Even if it is not visible without a loupe, A high-end watch must be perfectly finished, Even in the unseen areas. Perfect finishing inside and out is an essential requirement for high-end. If finishing is lacking, The difference from ordinary watch companies becomes less clear. First, Finishing is related to the moving parts of the movement. The shape of the gear teeth and the axle of the wheel must be finished smoothly to reduce load on the movement and ensure smoother operation. It is also related to non-moving parts.

Patek Philippe Seal ©Patek Phillippe

Patek Philippe Seal, Geneva Hallmark are detailed regulations on how artistically the (mostly) non-moving parts of the movement must be finished. Brands like Audemars Piguet or A. Lange & Söhne, Even if they do not have their own seal or are not based in Geneva, Do not neglect finishing. They maintain a high level of finishing according to their own standards. Cases and dials also require finishing.

Grand Seiko SBGM221 Blue Hand / © Watchaffinity

The case must be meticulously finished because it comes into direct contact with the skin. The dial is like the face of the watch, So to give a favorable first impression, The surface of the dial, Hands, And indexes must be perfectly finished.

Rarity

When supply remains lower than demand, An item becomes rare. The desire of people to own the watch exceeds the number available in the market. High-end brands produce a certain number of watches each year. This is to maintain the high quality suitable for high-end, But also to keep a proper tension between supply and demand. Rarity is greatly influenced by the psychological factor of owning a watch that others do not have.

Only Watch 2019 Masterpiece / © Monochrome

A watch that is the only one in the world is attractive in itself. One example is Only Watch, An event to help patients with Duchenne muscular dystrophy. It is an event that transforms the desire for the rarity of a unique watch into a good cause. No matter how wonderful a watch is, If anyone can easily obtain it, Its appeal and desirability quickly fade. Rarity also brings derivative effects. The desire to own something often adds a premium, Increasing its value.

Value Retention

High-end watches that raise their prices every year, Sometimes several times a year, Give satisfaction to existing owners. If the price rises faster than inflation, It means the value is not declining, And for prospective buyers, The ever-increasing price creates a sense of urgency. The price tag on a watch displayed at a high-end boutique is the price set by the company, But the real value is determined in the resale market.

Phillips Geneva Watch Auction 2020 / © Watchesbysjx

For example, If a high-end watch is traded secondhand at a price significantly lower than the new price, It means its value is not well maintained. On the other hand, If it is difficult to buy a certain watch secondhand below a certain price, It means its value is solidly maintained. High-end brands that set new records at auctions are also considered good investment targets. The value recognized at auction helps support the secondhand price of that brand. Therefore, Not all high-end watches are the same. After the liquidity-rich pandemic period, We are once again in an era of distinguishing the true high-end watches.