In recent years it is difficult to discuss the major trends in the watch market without mentioning 'reissues'. As the watch market has grown rapidly since the pandemic, Interest in and demand for vintage watches have also increased. In response, Manufacturers are actively searching their archives for vintage models to reissue. Here, We summarize the reissue trends of Rolex, Omega, Cartier and Audemars Piguet, Which are among the top traded brands on VIVER.

Rolex and Tudor

There was a time when it was commonly believed that Rolex would 'never' do reissues or downsize their watches. Unlike the rather conservative stance of Rolex, Its sister brand Tudor has taken a different approach.

Tudor Oysterdate Monte Carlo © Tudor

Since 2010, Tudor has actively started reissuing models from its own archives. Beginning with the reissue of the 'Monte Carlo' from 1971, Tudor expanded its reissue lineup in earnest with the Black Bay collection in 2012. Since then, The Black Bay lineup has become Tudor's main collection and continues to be introduced in various materials and functions.

Tudor Black Bay Pro

Tudor GMT Pepsi Ref. M79830RB
Rolex GMT-Master II Pepsi Ref. 126710BLRO
© chrono24

Although the Black Bay started as a reissue of Tudor's diver, Variation models such as the GMT and Pro appeared reminiscent of the vintage Rolex GMT-Master Pepsi and Explorer II. In particular, The Black Bay Pro was introduced in a 39mm size, Reminiscent of the original Explorer II 1655, Unlike the current Explorer II which has grown to 42mm and is less favored by those with smaller wrists. Nevertheless, Tudor applies the latest technologies such as T-Fit and excellent movements without compromise, Expressing nostalgia for vintage Rolex with modern technology. For Tudor, Reissues have been inseparable from the brand since its relaunch. Except for some lineups, The brand itself is deeply imbued with nostalgia for vintage Rolex and Tudor.

Tudor Prince Chronograph One © Tudor

The model shown at last year's Only Watch also demonstrates that Tudor equals reissue. The watch, Named 'Prince Chronograph One', Is an homage to Tudor's past 'Big Block Chronograph'. To achieve this, Tudor even developed a new in-house automatic chronograph movement instead of using the ETA, Sellita or Breitling movements found in current chronograph models, Clearly showing its focus on reinterpretation of past models.

Unlike Tudor, Where the reissue lineup has become the main lineup, Rolex incorporates elements of past models into current models only to the extent that it does not undermine the value of the originals. Notable examples include the unexpected return to 36mm for the 124270 Explorer in 2021 and the slimmer indices on the new Daytona 126500, Reminiscent of the 16520 'Zenith Daytona'. Therefore, Rolex never does direct reissues but is following the reissue trend to some extent.

Omega

Compared to other brands, Omega is very faithful to the concept of reissues. Omega has consistently reissued models by combining dials inspired by past models, Such as the 3594.50 Speedmaster 'Replica' and 2503.52 'Railmaster', With current cases. Even among current models, The Seamaster 300 Heritage and Speedmaster Mark II are reinterpretations of discontinued models from the past.

© monochrome-watches

In 2017, Omega introduced the Trilogy models, Which faithfully reissued the 1957 Seamaster, Railmaster and Speedmaster. While the appearance is almost identical to the originals, Only the bracelet, Movement and lume have been updated to modern standards. In 2018, Omega released a modern-sized version of the 1948 model, A reissue of the vintage Seamaster. Having received positive reviews for its full-fledged reissues, Omega even restored the Cal.321 movement used in the original Speedmaster over two years and introduced a new Sedna gold-plated Cal.321 in 2019.

© Omega

In 2020, Omega released a model that faithfully reissued the appearance of the 105.003 'Ed White' Speedmaster, Which originally used the Cal.321. Except for the gold-plated movement, Ceramic bezel, Open caseback, Modernized bracelet and the use of Super-LumiNova, The 2020 'Ed White' closely follows the original model.

Evolution of the font on the Omega Speedmaster 105.012-65
© chronoholic

Even the Speedmaster has slightly different logo fonts for each generation, And Omega has preserved these details in the Speedmaster Trilogy, Ed White reissue and the current new Moonwatch. In contrast, Tag Heuer's reissues with the HEUER logo differ from the originals in both appearance and font, Highlighting Omega's dedication to authenticity. Omega continues to release limited or special edition reissues, Such as the CK859 introduced in 2022, Which also uses a unique Omega logo distinct from other models, Just like the original.

Omega 1894 © hodinkee

The 321 was not the first model to have its movement reissued. In 1994, Omega released the '1894' model for its centenary, Reissuing even the original movement. However, Due to the modern size and logo, The appearance is less faithful compared to the 321 or Trilogy.

In conclusion, Omega's reissues are generally divided into regular models, Such as the Seamaster 300 Heritage, Railmaster and Speedmaster Mark II, Which reinterpret past models, And limited or special editions that aim for 1:1 reissues using modern materials and even replicating the original logo.

Cartier

Except for the Tank Louis, Which has been consistently reissued throughout the brand's history, Cartier's reissues are carried out in separate lineups. The biggest difference from Rolex and Omega is that these lineups are much less accessible. These include 'Collection Privée Cartier Paris', Its successor 'Cartier Privé', And the 'Réédition' lineup, Which was created specifically for reissues.

2023 Cartier Privé Tank Normale reissue of the original Tank
© Cartier

After the introduction of the Must Tank and Santos Carrée, Cartier's use of silver and steel increased while the proportion of gold and platinum decreased, Resulting in a lower average price point. The 'Collection Privée Cartier Paris' (CPCP), Launched in 1998, Is a lineup that continues the tradition of the original Cartier, Which only made precious metal watches, Unlike today's Cartier where steel is the main material. Features of this line include the 'Paris' dial, Guilloché dial, Rose motif at the center of the hands, And the exclusive use of manual movements and gold or platinum. All models have unique numbers and were produced as limited editions. Rather than aiming for perfect reissues like Omega, CPCP served as the brand's top-tier lineup, Selecting past models to elevate the brand's prestige.

The subsequent Cartier Privé line also started reissues for VIP clients. While all models are limited editions made only of gold or platinum and have unique numbers, The main differences are that CPCP is characterized by the Paris dial, Guilloché dial and central rose motif, Whereas Cartier Privé features brushed dials and reinterpretations of the original designs. This can be easily understood by looking at the photos below.

© matthew bain inc / ©S.Song watches / © Cartier

From left to right are the original, CPCP and Cartier Privé Tank Asymétrique models. While it is clear that the latter two were inspired by the first, They are not perfect reissues like Omega's. In fact, Unlike Omega, Which consistently uses the latest movements, Some of Cartier's limited production lines even use the same movements as the originals.

The Réédition line is also a limited edition using only gold and platinum, But is more faithful to the original models than the Cartier Privé line. The most recent example is the Tank Cintrée.

© Monochrome watches / © Cartier

These are the original platinum Cintrée model released in 1923 and the Cintrée Réédition released to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the original. Except for the font of the logo, It is difficult to find any differences.

The biggest difference from the previously mentioned brands is that Cartier has undergone significant changes in brand positioning. After the introduction of the Must Tank and Santos Carrée, The brand became more accessible than in the past, And the CPCP, Cartier Privé and Réédition lines, Which use only gold and platinum, Are reissues of the family-run era of Cartier.

Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is a brand that has been very passive about reissues. The Royal Oak Jumbo, The brand's symbol, Has not changed in size or movement since the 5402 was introduced in 1972 until just before the current 16202. However, In 2020, The brand introduced its first reissue model, The [Re]master 01.

© Audemars Piguet

Regarding the [Re]master 01, Which is a reissue of the watch known as 1533, Audemars Piguet emphasizes that it is a 'Remaster', Not a 'Reissue'. While the design is similar, The chronograph layout, Movement and size are all completely different from the original. The original model was the first watch selected for the Audemars Piguet Museum, And the reissue was also released to commemorate the opening of the museum. Therefore, Except for the consistently maintained Jumbo, Audemars Piguet's reissues are not part of the reissue trend but are watches created to commemorate special occasions for the brand.