Over the past decade Tudor has successfully transformed itself from Rolex’s sibling brand into a respected and independent watchmaker. The line that has made the Tudor brand shine the most is undoubtedly the “Black Bay” diver watch collection. Black Bay was introduced in 2012 and is a modern interpretation of Tudor’s early Submariner models that had been dormant in the archives. Black Bay ambitiously revived the Tudor diver collection that was discontinued in 2009 and has established itself as the brand’s flagship. Various lines have been derived from it and continue to demonstrate the limitless potential of tool watches.

There are two lines that have captivated both tool watch enthusiasts and those just starting to collect luxury watches. These are the Black Bay 58 and Black Bay 54, Released in 2018.

Black Bay 58

Tudor Black Bay 58 ©analogshift

The Black Bay 58 made its debut in 2018, Six years after the launch of the Black Bay collection. The number “58” is derived from the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7924, One of Tudor’s early diver watches released in 1958. The Black Bay 58 was an instant success and is now often described as a “modern classic.” The size of the watch played a significant role in its success. Watch enthusiasts around the world responded enthusiastically to the 39mm case size, Proving that the desire for diver watches under 41mm was not limited to online communities.

Tudor Black Bay 58 Cal. MT5402 movement ©watchuseek

Another selling point is that performance was not compromised. The Black Bay 58 is equipped with the cal. MT5402, Which is COSC certified and operates at 28, 800 vph (4Hz), Making it a robust and reliable movement. It boasts an impressive 70-hour power reserve and is comparable to the heavier and thicker previous Black Bay models. Water resistance is a solid 200m. The movement is produced in-house by Kenissi, A specialized manufacturer established by Tudor, Allowing Tudor to confidently claim the “in-house” title. The case thickness is a noticeably slim 11.9mm, Compared to the then-current Black Bay’s 14.75mm, Giving it a more classic aura.

Black Bay 58 79030N

39mm, Black

In terms of design, Subtle changes have come together to establish the distinct identity of the Black Bay 58. The case size is so important that it deserves to be mentioned again. While the trend for larger watches continues in the market, The Black Bay 58 reduced the case size and successfully combined the sturdy yet sometimes bulky look of modern sports watches with the proportions of vintage timepieces, Creating a neo-vintage look. (If you think of the Super/Maxi case Rolex released in 2005, It will be easier to understand.) This neo-vintage look blends modern elements with classic sensibilities and is also Tudor’s strategy to differentiate the Black Bay 58 from the existing 41mm Black Bay.

Rivet decoration on the side of the bracelet links © Millenartwatches

There are several design elements that evoke this vintage feeling. The color of the bezel markers and the rivet decorations on the side of the links, Which create a patina effect, Serve no practical purpose but enhance the vintage vibe. Some enthusiasts criticize these as artificial (the ref. 7924 that inspired the homage actually has white bezel markers), But Tudor’s sophisticated blend of vintage and modern for today’s consumers has once again allowed the Black Bay to break away from the image of being the “little brother of the Submariner” or “an alternative to the Submariner” and grow into a unique collection.

Various colors of Black Bay 58

Tudor is expanding the Black Bay 58 catalog. There are various color lineups including a navy blue version in stainless steel, Bronze, And silver versions.

Black Bay 58 79030B

39mm, Blue

Black Bay 58 Bronze 79012M

39mm, Brown-bronze

Black Bay 54

Tudor Black bay 54 © Watchclicker

After the success of the Black Bay 58, Tudor once again released an unexpected model. The Black Bay 54 was first unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2023. Adopting a smaller and simpler design, The Black Bay 54 is the newest line in the Black Bay collection and features the smallest size among the brand’s current diver watches.

Tudor Ref. 7922 © Tudor

Once again, The number 54 refers to a year, Taking inspiration from the Oyster Prince Submariner ref. 7922, Tudor’s first diver watch that preceded the ref. 7924. As it pays homage to the very first model that marked the beginning of Tudor diver watches, It emphasizes vintage elements and adds symbolic significance to the model itself.

Tudor Black bay 54 © Watchclicker

To highlight its vintage feel, The Black Bay 54 opts for a simpler layout than the Black Bay 58. The minute hash marks from 0 to 15 on the bezel have been completely removed to focus on aesthetic harmony. All bezel markers are white. As a result, By sacrificing some typical diver watch elements, A unique line that stands out from previous models has been created. There is another detail that stays true to heritage. Tudor’s signature “snowflake” hands, Usually applied to the seconds hand as well, Have been replaced with a “lollipop” seconds hand for a true vintage look.

Tudor Black bay 54 © Watchclicker

While the Black Bay 58 blends old and new in its design, The Black Bay 54 can be seen as closer to a restoration. However, The 37mm size adds a classic touch to the design, Which could otherwise look old-fashioned, Resulting in the Black Bay 54’s own golden ratio. The movement is the in-house cal. MT5400 produced by Kenissi, Boasting the same specifications as the Black Bay 58.

Tudor Black bay 54 © Watchclicker

Due to its size, The Black Bay 54 can be considered unisex. Although consumers have not specifically defined it, As watches over 40mm have become the norm, The range of unisex sizes has naturally expanded. Therefore, Many male consumers, Especially younger collectors, May find the 37mm size small. However, Since the lug-to-lug length is only 1mm shorter than the Black Bay 58 at 46mm, Many say its presence on the wrist is similar. In addition, As the current trend is shifting back to downsizing, It is only a matter of time before 37mm becomes familiar. Many watchmakers, Including the IWC Big Pilot, Piaget Polo, Hublot Spirit of Big Bang, And Vacheron Constantin Overseas, Are releasing smaller sizes in their famous collections.

Black Bay 58 and 54,
Their Position in the Resale Market?

Black Bay 54, Black Bay 58
© Chisolm Hunter YouTube

One of the key factors behind the Black Bay line’s success among watch enthusiasts is its price. As of 2024, The retail price of the Black Bay 58 is 5, 430, 000 KRW, While the Black Bay 54 is 5, 280, 000 KRW. Although depreciation applies in the resale market, This reality can make the Black Bay an even more valuable product.

Tudor Black Bay 54 © Hodinkee

Pre-owned Black Bay 58s tend to see greater depreciation, With steel models generally trading for under 4, 000, 000 KRW. Depending on the condition, Some are priced in the high 2, 000, 000 KRW range. This price range is extremely attractive for beginners seeking a quality tool watch. Unworn Black Bay 54s can trade in the high 4, 000, 000 KRW range. For those looking to acquire a dream watch with a budget under 5, 000, 000 KRW, It is one of the best options.

Black Bay 54 79000N

37mm, Black