The subtitle mentions rise and fall, Which may sound like the ups and downs of stocks or bonds, But here it refers to the increase (getting bigger) and decrease (getting smaller) of watch case diameters. About 15 years ago, The hottest trend in the watch market was all about how big watches could get. At that time, Sports watches in the early 40mm range often surpassed 45mm, And 47mm diameters were common, With some even boldly exceeding 50mm. 

Hublot Big Bang King Power 48mm ⓒworldwatchreview

However, That momentum slowed significantly after four or five years, And by 2020, It led to a diversification of diameters. 

The confusion of the 2010s

There was no particular reason for the rapid increase in case diameters in the 2010s. In fact, It may be more unusual that there was so little change in case diameters since wristwatches were first made. Usually, The diameter of a case was related to the diameter of the movement inside. Since the case diameter was determined by the movement, A movement around 25mm would typically result in a case of about 36–38mm. Sports watches, Which required shock resistance, Usually had larger and thicker cases, Typically around 40mm. 

Rolex submariner 116610LN 40mm ⓒbobswatches

As case diameters increased rapidly, The unwritten rule of matching the case to the movement diameter was greatly shaken. Unlike cases, Which can be quickly adjusted to the desired size, Movements cannot. Movements require time to develop and are continuously modified and improved after their initial release, So they cannot respond as quickly as cases. This gap became evident in dress watches released around 2010. 

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196R ⓒwatchclub

The case diameter of Patek Philippe's Calatrava Ref. 5196 is 37.5mm, While the hand-wound movement Cal. 215 inside measures 21.9mm, Resulting in a gap of over 15mm. Considering that a difference of just 1 or 2mm in case diameter can feel significant, This is quite substantial. As a result, The Calatrava Ref. 5196 features both a small seconds at 6 o'clock and a bar index. Normally, When a small seconds is present, The index at that position disappears, But here it remains.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3796 ⓒ thekeystone

This is well illustrated by the previous generation Calatrava Ref. 3796, Which uses the same movement and lacks the 6 o'clock index. In terms of dial balance alone, The Ref. 3796 is preferable. 

Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars 15056
ⓒ everywatch

The now-discontinued Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars hand-wound Ref. 15056 also features both a small seconds and an index, Just like the Calatrava Ref. 5196. Although the Cal. 3090 movement was a modern design at the time, It was still small because the case diameter was not anticipated. Vacheron Constantin also released the small-diameter Cal. 1400, But soon after introduced the larger Cal. 4400 with increased diameter and power reserve. 

Transition period

Around 2015, The ever-increasing case diameters began to slow down. As a reaction to the increase, A decrease began. Looking at the timing, It seems that the growing influence of the Chinese market led to changes that matched their preferences. 

lange und söhne 1815 38.5mm ⓒ alange-soehne

A. Lange & Söhne offered two options for the 1815, Reducing the 40mm diameter by 1.5mm to 38.5mm. Piaget's Altiplano, Which was quite large for a dress watch at 43mm, Sought balance by offering a 38mm hand-wound version. At the time, Jaeger-LeCoultre also introduced some Master Collection models in 38.5mm, Down from over 40mm, Signaling the end of the oversized era. 

What are the recent trends?

These days, Case diameter is not a particularly notable trend. The noticeable increase in diameters during the 2010s reversed in the mid-2010s, And some watch companies began offering the same model in two sizes. While not quite back to pre-1990s levels, Overall case diameters have decreased and stabilized. Compared to the 1990s, There is also a greater variety of sizes. 

(From left) Tank Louis mini, Panthère de Cartier mini,
Baignoire ⓒ Cartier

Cartier, Often seen as the “size barometer” of the watch industry, Reflects the current situation. Inspired by medieval bathtubs, The Baignoire boasts volume and curves, And both the Panthère and Tank watches now come in two mini sizes. Cartier watches are known for their gender-neutral approach, With many collections available in large, Medium, And small sizes. During the era of increasing sizes, They even introduced extra-large models to follow the trend. 

Tank must extra-large ⓒ Cartier

The recent introduction of mini sizes reflects the trend toward smaller case diameters and the increasing variety of sizes on the market. This also reflects Cartier's fashion sensibility, As the brand handles jewelry and various accessories. Looking at Cartier as an example, It can be said that today's watch sizes are smaller and more diverse than before. 

Mini sizes and diversification

Cartier Tank Louis Mini

The Tank Louis Cartier was never particularly large by today's standards, But regardless of size, Its unique proportions and charm remain unchanged. 

Tank Louis mini ⓒ hodinkee

The Tank Louis Cartier Mini, Measuring 16.5mm wide and 24mm long, Is no exception. The very small rectangular dial features the signature Tank details in a minimalist way. The railway minute index now serves as a boundary with the Roman numeral index, And while some elements have been adjusted for size, The unadjusted crown diameter creates a unique imbalance that adds to the mini size's charm. 

Cartier Tank Américaine Mini

The Tank Louis Cartier was never particularly large by today's standards, But regardless of size, Its unique proportions and charm remain unchanged. 

Cartier Tank Américaine watch Mini ⓒ hodinkee

The Tank in the Tank collection, Which gives a long and solid impression, Incorporates the details of New York's towering skyscrapers into the sides of the case. Even without an extra-large size, The large size alone is robust enough for men. While it may seem ironic to release the Tank Américaine in a mini size, It has a unique, Miniature feel. For women with slender wrists, Especially in Asia, The Tank Américaine was difficult to wear, But the mini size now makes it a viable option for their wish lists. 

Tank Americaine LM W2603156

45.1mm x 26.6mm, Silver

Rolex Explorer I

The diversity of case sizes is well represented in the Rolex collection. In the past, The Yacht-Master was available in mid-size and small sizes so the whole family could wear them. Recently, The Yacht-Master is offered in 40mm and 42mm, And the Submariner family is subdivided into Sea-Dweller and Deepsea models, With different diameters according to water resistance. The Explorer I has shown its struggle with the right diameter during model changes. 

Rolex Explorer1 224270, 124270 ⓒ wornandwound

The current collection offers two sizes: the original 36mm and a trendier 40mm. The former reflects some female demand and features a dial balance based on the original, While the latter has a large, Bold dial that is very appealing. Both use the same movement and are similarly priced, Making them excellent options for those who want to reflect their preferences, But also making the choice more difficult. 

Explorer 1 124270

36mm, Black, Oyster

Explorer 40 224270

40mm, Black, Oyster