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How Did Rolex Become a Symbol of Hip-Hop?

Why Rolex and not another watch brand? Why did Rolex come to occupy the symbolic position in hip-hop? Of course, There is no absolute answer. However, There are clues that allow us to guess the context.

ⓒ run DMC

In fact, The relationship between hip-hop and watches goes back quite a long time. We can find various types of watches in photos of rappers who represented the 1980s. LL Cool J, Rakim, EPMD, And Run DMC were all close to (expensive) watches and wore not only watches but also a lot of gold jewelry. Some say that the style of 1980s rappers was influenced by the fashion of Black drug dealers at the time. Black drug dealers were the people who made the most money in their neighborhoods. As such, They wore the most expensive clothes and adorned themselves with high-end accessories, And their style became the object of envy.

Two Artists Representing 90s Hip-Hop & Rolex

It was in the 1990s that Rolex truly established itself as the watch symbolizing hip-hop. The 1990s was the era when hip-hop began to be commercialized in the United States, And rappers who succeeded in this era naturally gained greater wealth than before.

ⓒ guardian.ng

The rappers who most clearly imprinted Rolex on the hip-hop scene in the 1990s were 2Pac and Notorious B.I.G (hereafter Biggie). Even without mentioning Rolex, These two are among the most famous rappers, But when it comes to Rolex, They are also the most important figures.

ⓒ GQ

Both 2Pac and Biggie achieved great success in their early to mid-twenties. They acquired things they had longed for but could not have. In fact, The photo of Biggie wearing a Coogi sweater and Versace sunglasses while counting cash inspired many people. It was a photo that encapsulated his success.

ⓒ Getty Images

However, There is another equally famous photo: Biggie wearing a yellow gold Rolex Day-Date on his wrist. In fact, It was not just one photo but several. He also mentioned Rolex (naturally) in several of his songs. The most representative song is ‘Mo Money Mo Problems’. “Where the true players at? Throw your Rollies in the sky.”

ⓒ All Eyez On Me : 2PAC

2Pac went even further. He even shot his album cover wearing a Rolex. [All Eyez on Me], Released in 1996, Is the greatest work of 2Pac’s career and is considered one of the greatest albums in hip-hop history. The cover of this album features 2Pac wearing a Rolex. I cannot even imagine the impact this album cover had on later generations.

Day-Date 36 118238

36mm, Champagne, President

I have seen rappers say that buying a Rolex is a ‘tradition’ in hip-hop. Perhaps they grew up in the culture established by 2Pac, Biggie, And the successful rappers who emerged after the 1990s.

For example, G-Easy appeared on GQ’s YouTube and said, “I grew up listening to hip-hop music that talked about Rolex. Rolex is like a benchmark on the journey to success. Getting this watch felt like lifting the Holy Grail.”
(Original interview: Click here)

Day-Date 40 228238

40mm, White/Roman, President

Is the Era of Rolex Coming to an End?

However, Signs of change have recently begun to appear. In fact, Change is already underway. Rappers are starting to leave Rolex. To be precise, There are now rappers who wear watches that are higher in grade and more expensive than Rolex. A good example of this can be found in Korea, Not just in the United States. Simon Dominic appeared on GQ Korea’s YouTube and said, “When I first made money, I wore a Rolex, But these days I’ve leveled up and really like Richard Mille, Patek Philippe, And Audemars Piguet.”
(Original interview with Simon Dominic: Click here)

In a way, This is a good thing. Their circumstances have improved, So they wear higher-grade and more expensive watches. This also makes me think that perhaps the reason rappers wore Rolex until now was because their level of success matched the level of Rolex. Just as Simon Dominic leveled up, Other watch brands besides Rolex are now appearing in the songs of American rappers. Pop Smoke’s ‘AP’ is a good example. Some may have already guessed from the title. This song is about Audemars Piguet.

However, There are other reasons why rappers are leaving Rolex. The Quiett told me, “Hip-hop is a genre that is especially sensitive to trends, Even compared to other genres. Words, Lyrics, And themes that are in vogue keep changing. Looking back, It was about ten years ago that rappers were really showing off their Rolexes. The trend of showing off watches has lasted for ten years, So maybe it’s time for it to step back. But regardless of trends, I will keep wearing Rolex. For me, It’s a classic. Air Jordan and Rolex are classics to me.”

I have another reason in mind. I think it is because the younger generation leading hip-hop today is different from the previous generation in many ways. In fact, The flow of hip-hop that emerged around the mid-2010s sparked much debate. The sound and messages of hip-hop that became prominent around this time were very different from those that existed before. Rappers who focus more on singing than rapping, Autotune throughout, And sounds closer to rock than hip-hop are examples.

However, More important than these is the depression, Frustration, Self-destructive messages, And drug dependence that young rappers express in their music. The reason Rolex could become the symbolic watch brand of hip-hop is that hip-hop was fundamentally an upward-oriented music. The attitude of rappers was to rise from the bottom, Seize a better life, And wear Rolex as a trophy.

The Eternal Hip-Hop Classic, Rolex

However, This upward-oriented characteristic has largely disappeared from recent hip-hop music. Instead, Young rappers fight depression and express it in their music, And some have died due to the drugs they took to overcome their depression.
The reason Mac Miller and Lil Peep are no longer with us is not unrelated to this. There is no place for Rolex. Or, To put it more accurately, The place for Rolex has become much smaller.

Times will continue to change. The era of Rolex may return or it may not. However, One thing is certain: as The Quiett said, Rolex will remain a hip-hop classic forever. Just as the boom bap era is gone but boom bap remains the purest form of hip-hop sound. Suddenly, I remember something else The Quiett told me. “Rolex was proof that I made it. In a way, It was a trophy of this society. Oh, But I don’t check the time with my Rolex. I check the time on my phone.”