When jacket season arrives, Watch enthusiasts face a recurring concern each year. They worry that their watch might get scratched by jacket sleeve buttons or cuffs. Because of this, There are quite a few people who hesitate to wear watches during the chilly season. However, This season, There is a solution that will ease your worries about wearing a watch. That solution is the ceramic watch. Ceramic watches are lightweight and highly durable, Especially resistant to scratches, Making them not only practical but also stylish with their refined designs, Satisfying both style and functionality. Now, Let us explore why ceramic watches are loved by so many, Their charm, History, And the latest trends.

Rado DiaStar 1 / © Rado

The current standard for ceramic watches is based on zirconium oxide (Zirconium oxide, ZrO2). However, The early watches from Rado, The brand known for being the first to apply ceramic cases to watches and mass produce them, Used tungsten carbide. Technically, This is also a ceramic, But it is different from the zirconium oxide-based ceramics we commonly think of. This is an important distinction, And it is worth noting that ceramics combining zirconium oxide with other metal oxides have since become the standard.

IW3755-03 / © IWC

The first time this material was applied to a watch case was in 1986 with IWC's Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, Marking an important milestone in watch history that goes beyond just the case material. IWC has continued to conduct research in the ceramic field, Achieving results with models such as the Black Flieger in 1994 and, More recently, The development of various colored ceramics. Other brands have also accelerated their research and development of new materials, And now many brands regularly produce ceramic cases.

Why Ceramic?

Ceramic is light, Robust, Hypoallergenic, And above all, Highly resistant to scratches in daily life. It combines both style and practicality. The rich colors that only ceramic can express, Its excellent chemical resistance, High hardness, And scratch resistance make it a perfect material for watches. This is why watchmakers continue to challenge themselves with the complex and demanding manufacturing process, Believing in the value of ceramic as a material.

Ceramic is a GO

J12 / © Chanel

So, When did ceramic watches become truly popular? The brand that introduced the charm of ceramic watches to the public is undoubtedly the world-renowned luxury fashion house Chanel. The J12 watch, First introduced by Chanel in 1999, Broke down the boundaries between men and women and clearly demonstrated that fashion and watchmaking can be united.

J12 Paradoxe / © Chanel

Watches from fashion brands are sometimes accepted reluctantly, But there is no doubt that the Chanel J12 has established itself as a watch icon. Chanel, As a fashion house, Has consistently tried various styles instead of sticking to a single design to break stereotypes. For example, There is the world's first 'J12 Paradoxe, ' which realized a ceramic case in two different colors. Although it is actually made by combining two ceramic case parts, This attempt provided great creative inspiration to many watchmakers.

J12 Bleu<br/>Hannah Whitaker, Bloomberg Businessweek

J12 Bleu
Hannah Whitaker, Bloomberg Businessweek

In April this year, Chanel also launched the new blue ceramic 'J12 Bleu, ' which was completed after five years of development. It features a monochromatic matte dark blue color, And the bezel is adorned with a blue ceramic ring in a 'baguette cut' pattern that is rarely seen in other brands, Showcasing its unique appeal. In this way, Chanel has established itself as a pioneer that breaks the boundaries between fashion and watchmaking by pushing the limits of ceramic watches in both design and technology.

J12 Bleu seems likely to become a 'sleeper hit' quietly gaining popularity in both the fashion and watch communities.

IWC

Watch enthusiasts with deep knowledge are well aware that IWC is a brand that leads in technological development and material innovation. Since the 1970s, IWC has actively invested in R&D and experimented with tungsten hardening technology to prevent scratches on stainless steel. In the 1980s, The brand focused on titanium technology, Introducing the first watch with a titanium case and bracelet, The 'Porsche Design by IWC Chronograph.' IWC has consistently shown interest in unique materials beyond ceramics.

Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium IW388106<br/> © Monochrome

Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Ceratanium IW388106
© Monochrome

After years of honing its technology in titanium and ceramics, IWC unveiled Ceratanium® in 2017, A material that combines the advantages of both. The process begins with a custom titanium alloy, And each part is completed in titanium before undergoing a complex heat treatment in an oven, During which the metal surface transforms into ceramic. (Although it is a demanding process, Unlike ceramic, Ceratanium does not shrink during sintering, So even small parts such as crowns, Pushers, And buckles can be made from Ceratanium.)

Ceratanium has become a steady seller in the Pilot's Watch collection, But currently, Colorful ceramic cases appeal more to IWC fans. IWC's colored ceramic watches are focused on the Pilot's Watch line in collaboration with Pantone. The Pantone Matching System (PMS) is a standardized system that ensures color consistency in printing and manufacturing, With each color identified by a unique name or number.

Pilot's Watch Chronograph Top Gun © Fratello

Reference Keywords (44.5mm)

IW389106 - Dark Green Ceramic (Woodland)
IW389105 - White Ceramic (Lake Tahoe)

These colored ceramic models are released in connection with the US Navy Fighter Weapons School 'TOP GUN' theme. The color palette is inspired by the main training environments of pilots. Specifically, There are 'Mojave Desert' and 'Lake Tahoe, ' inspired by the Mojave Desert and Lake Tahoe, 'Woodland' reflecting the colors of flight suits and forests, 'Oceana' matching the vast sea, And 'Miramar' inspired by instructors' T-shirts.

Pilot's Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun / © IWC

Reference Keywords (actual size is 41.9mm)

IW389401 - Black Ceramic
IW389402 - Brown Ceramic (Mojave Desert)
IW389404 - Blue Ceramic (Oceana)
IW389409 - Light Blue Ceramic (Miramar)

These models use titanium for the crown, Pushers, And case back. Some express regret that this does not achieve a perfect tone-on-tone look, But this is a practical choice to prevent breakage from impact, Unlike ceramic. However, For the 'Woodland' model, Ceratanium is applied to these parts (crown, Pushers, Etc.) to enhance design consistency.

For those looking for date-only models, There are 41mm size options available.

Three types of Pilot's Watch 41 Top Gun and others / © IWC

Reference Keywords (41mm)

IW326906 - Black Ceramic
IW328106 - Brown Ceramic (Mojave Desert)
IW328104 - White Ceramic (Lake Tahoe)
IW328101 - Blue Ceramic (Laureus)

The blue ceramic model shown in the image is the 'Laureus Sport for Good Foundation' edition released in 2021. Although it is not part of the Top Gun lineup, It shares the same design language. Only 750 pieces were produced, Making it a rare collector's item.

IWC's colored ceramic catalog continues to expand. In addition to chronograph and date models, There are perpetual calendar, Big Pilot, And Timezoner models, So please refer to them as well.

Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar IW503101<br/>© WCL Media LLC

Big Pilot Perpetual Calendar IW503101
© WCL Media LLC

Omega

Among luxury watch brands, Omega is the most accessible in terms of price and design in the ceramic field. For now, The brand sticks to classic and popular colors such as black, Blue, And white rather than bold colors.

Planet Ocean 600M 215.92.46.22.99.002
© Omega

Omega has shown as much passion for R&D in new materials as IWC. Although the brand has not made exotic materials its flagship, It has actively utilized the potential of ceramic cases in the Planet Ocean line of the Seamaster collection, Drawing attention. Among them, The Planet Ocean 600M 'Deep Black' series released in 2016 is particularly memorable. Its design would still be considered modern if released today.

Planet Ocean 'Deep Black' / © Omega

Of course, You can find ceramic cases in the Seamaster collection, But despite the high price, The series that Omega fans are most enthusiastic about is the Dark Side of the Moon.

The first Dark Side of the Moon '9900' ref. 311.92.44.51.01.003 was released in 2013 to commemorate the legendary Apollo 8 lunar orbit flight in December 1968, Setting the direction for today's collection. Since then, The Grey Side and White Side have been released, And in 2017, The Blue Side of the Moon, Combining a chronograph and moonphase, Was introduced.

The Dark Side of the Moon is characterized by its restrained tones and matte surface finish, Making it the most popular choice. Despite its large 44.25mm size, It is comfortable to wear and remains consistently popular (it fits similarly to a 42mm watch).

The Dark Side of the Moon 'Black' series added in 2015<br/> © Omega

Reference Keywords (2015 'Black' series)

'Black Black' - 311.92.44.51.01.005
'Pitch Black' - 311.92.44.51.01.004
'Vintage Black' - 311.92.44.51.01.006
'Sedna Black' - 311.63.44.51.06.001

Following the original, The models that enriched the Dark Side of the Moon line in 2015 have also received updates. Nicknames such as 'Black Black, ' 'Pitch Black, ' 'Vintage Black, ' and 'Sedna Black' have been given in the order shown in the image.

In October, There was a new product launch that can be considered an upgrade. Among them, The newly released Grey Side of the Moon model is receiving the most attention.

This model is not the previous Grey Side, But rather the spiritual successor to the Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 model, Sharing the dial finish reminiscent of the lunar surface and the manual winding movement caliber 3869 (based on 3861). The skeleton movement, With its meticulous finishing, Reveals a partially exposed main plate and a laser-engraved lunar surface.

Reference Keywords (2025 lineup)

They are divided into rubber/fabric strap options.

'Black White' - 310.92.44.51.01.002/004
'Black Black' - 310.92.44.51.01.003/005
'Black Red' - 310.92.44.51.01.001
Grey Side - 310.92.44.50.06.001/002

In Part 2, We will introduce Hublot, Which boldly challenges with the 'Art of Fusion, ' the conservative but reliable Blancpain, And Audemars Piguet, Which boasts the strongest premium among ceramic watches.

Young

Writer

My dream is to become the king of watches.