The conservatism of Swiss watches was laid bare in 1969 with the advent of quartz watches. Swiss watchmakers, Who refused to embrace innovation, Were completely defeated by these new timepieces. After much struggle, They managed to recover, But it seems their characteristic conservatism was hard to let go. This is also why the newly born Hublot continued to struggle. However, Hublot eventually managed to soar, Thanks to changes in the Swiss watch industry and two great men.

Founder of Hublot Carlo Croco ©analogshift
Carlo Crocco, Born in Italy, Founded a watch company called 'Hublot', Which means 'porthole' in French. At a time when the industry was in turmoil due to the rise of quartz watches, He took the bold step of establishing a new watch company. The first watch he introduced had a design that closely resembled a porthole, Just like the company's name.

Early Hublot model ©watchuseek
The round bezel adorned with twelve titanium screws and a case shaped like a hinge was a direct reference to a ship's porthole, Designed for light and ventilation. Up to this point, Things were going well, But Carlo Crocco made a new attempt by pairing a traditional gold case with a modern rubber strap. While such material combinations are now common, In the early 1980s they were hard to accept. In the highly conservative watch industry, Matching precious gold with cheap rubber was considered sacrilegious, And Hublot remained in obscurity for a long time.

Jean-Claude Biver and Hublot © Watchtime
Jean-Claude Biver is a man with a brilliant career. After making significant achievements in the watch industry and seemingly retiring, He returned to the stage with his own high-end brand, 'JC Biver'. While at Omega, Jean-Claude Biver left the company, Acquired the rights to the Blancpain brand, And transformed it into a high-end brand. After growing Blancpain and selling it to the Swatch Group, He was hired by Carlo Crocco and became CEO of Hublot in 2004. Hublot, Which had potential but had not found its moment, Was completely transformed by him. He maximized the mix-and-match approach that Carlo Crocco had attempted and named it the 'Art of Fusion'.

© Hublot
Of course, Many things had changed in the watch industry by then. Sports watches were becoming the main attraction, And there was a growing awareness of material diversity. Jean-Claude Biver quickly recognized and capitalized on this. Utilizing his marketing expertise, He rapidly unleashed Hublot's potential.
The first collection to embody the Art of Fusion was the Big Bang in 2005. It burst onto the scene with powerful energy, Just like the Big Bang that started the universe. The Big Bang collection reinterpreted Carlo Crocco's first watch to allow for various material combinations and applications. The case was divided into several parts—bezel, Middle case, And case back—and both bracelets and straps were designed for easy interchangeability.

Hublot Big Bang © Hublot
In addition to the traditional gold used by Carlo Crocco, Common case materials such as steel and titanium, As well as the then-emerging ceramic and carbon, Were actively adopted. Non-metallic materials like ceramic and carbon, With their unique textures, Colors, And tactile qualities, Continue to play a key role in the Big Bang collection. Rare case materials such as tantalum and tungsten were also used in the Art of Fusion, And exotic leathers and even denim were used for straps. The virtually unlimited material combinations became the Big Bang's greatest strength, Captivating many with their freshness and leading Hublot to new heights.

Big Bang Original Gold 301.PB.131.RX
44mm, Black/Carbon Stamping


Big Bang Original Steel Ceramic 301.SB.131.RX
44mm, Black/Carbon Stamping

While the Art of Fusion and its free material combinations were being realized through the Big Bang, Hublot focused on strengthening its core by developing an in-house movement. The result was the Unico, An automatic in-house chronograph movement. The main engine, Unico Cal. HUB 1240, Featured silicon components and a 72-hour power reserve, Meeting all the requirements of a modern movement. The Unico Cal. HUB 1240 was soon upgraded to the Unico Cal. HUB 1280, Moving away from a modular design to improve chronograph operation stability.

BIG BANG UNICO TITANIUM © Hublot
The Big Bang equipped with the Unico adopted an open-worked dial that fully revealed the movement, Further enhancing the appeal of the chronograph. In recent years, As integrated bracelet sports watches have become popular, Hublot has responded flexibly by introducing the Big Bang Integrated sub-collection.
This collection, Launched in 2008, Is a reinterpretation of Hublot's beginnings. The first watch that sparked discussion by matching a gold case with a rubber strap was revived as a collection.

Classic Fusion © Hodinkee
Although there are some differences in details such as the number of screws on the bezel, The collection inherits the goal of material mix-and-match. Simple functions such as time and date are at the core, And the collection also includes chronographs and the Orlinski collection, Which exposes geometric facets on the case and dial in collaboration with French sculptor and pop artist Richard Orlinski.

Classic Fusion 3-Hands Titanium 511.NX.1171.RX
45mm, Black


Classic Fusion 3-Hands Titanium Opalin 511.NX.2611.LR
42mm, Opalin


Classic Fusion 3-Hands Racing Grey 511.NX.7071.LR
45mm, Grey

The Art of Fusion expressed through watches is also manifested in diverse partnerships that transcend genres. The classic example of partnerships with elite athletes includes tennis star Novak Djokovic, Who holds the most Grand Slam titles, And Usain Bolt, The world record holder in the 100m and 200m sprints.

Hublot X Murakami Takashi Classic Fusion © Hublot
Murakami Takashi, Still a hot name in the pop art scene, As well as Richard Orlinski and Sang Bleu, Who consistently release collaboration editions, Are also cool partners of Hublot. The luxurious patina of France's high-end shoemaker Berluti, Michelin-starred chefs, And even Nespresso have contributed to Hublot's world of diverse partnerships that reveal the charm of the Art of Fusion.
Felix
Writer
Watch Columnist