Rolex Perpetual Padellone

Rolex's Large Frying Pan

Watches are often given nicknames based on their appearance, Color, Features or associated figures. Rolex, Due to its immense popularity, Has a wide variety of nicknames. Pepsi, Coke, Starbucks, Sprite, Root Beer, Batman, Hulk, Kermit, Smurf and so on. Most of these are inspired by colors reminiscent of beverages or characters. This new model has been named Padellone, Which means large frying pan. It is unusual in that this is not a nickname but an official name.

Large Frying Pan

Italian collectors and dealers have played a unique role in the culture of collecting vintage Rolex watches and in the formation of nicknames. Italian nicknames such as Ovettone, Referring to the large bubbleback with a domed caseback, And Stelline, For star-shaped indexes, Remain in use for vintage Rolex models. The new model's name, Padellone, Is unusual because a nickname has become its official name. The origin of Padellone is Ref. 8171, Released in 1949. Due to its large and wide 38mm case and dial for the time, Italian collectors gave it the nickname 'large frying pan'.

Rolex Ref. 8171, 38mm stainless steel model in natural light
https://www.hodinkee.com

Watches like the Ref. 8171 are highly sought after. The reason why not only Rolex but also other watch companies' models in this style are so popular is clear. The rich calendar information of date, Day and month harmonizes beautifully with the poetic mood of the moonphase. You can enjoy both functionality and beauty in a single watch. Ref. 8171 was produced in extremely limited quantities, And as demand for Rolex has increased, The influx of new collectors has driven its auction price up significantly. Depending on preservation, Case material and bracelet type, The hammer price varies greatly, But ranges from $200, 000 to over $1, 000, 000.

Rolex Ref. 8171, Yellow gold model with two-tone dial and small seconds moonphase
https://www.hodinkee.com

Perpetual Padellone

The new Perpetual Padellone features a full calendar with a pointer date and two small windows symmetrically displaying the day and month, Along with a moonphase on the dial. This layout closely follows the overall calendar configuration and arrangement of Ref. 8171. The most visible difference is in the seconds hand: the Perpetual Padellone uses a center seconds hand with four hands sharing a single axis. In a dress watch, This difference greatly changes the impression of the watch. Compared to the Ref. 8171, Which has a small seconds hand sharing space with the moonphase, The Perpetual Padellone feels much more modern. It is also easier to check the seconds quickly.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Ref. 53505-0002
Everose gold and brown alligator strap
https://monochrome-watches.com

Another point that distinguishes the impression of the two watches, Past and present, Is the dial finishing method. Ref. 8171 generally used a solid or light satin finish. The outer part where the pointer date is located was colored darker than the main dial, And the two discs for day and month were lightly grained. Overall, It gives a calm and neat impression. In contrast, The Perpetual Padellone has a fully grained dial with a satin-finished date ring on the periphery. The Everose gold case is paired with an intense white dial, While the platinum case features an ice blue dial, Emphasizing luxury. Even compared to the era of Ref. 8171 and the current dress watch style, It stands out quite prominently.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Ref. 53506-0002
Platinum case and ice blue grained dial
https://monochrome-watches.com

Moonphase and Haplos

The Perpetual Padellone features a typical full calendar and moonphase dial layout. However, This watch functions as an annual calendar. In other words, It is a small complication that only requires calendar adjustment at the end of February. Rolex has previously implemented an original annual calendar display in the Sky-Dweller. The Perpetual Padellone, However, Is equipped with a new mechanism called Haplos. The most important point of Haplos is that the date, Day and month all change instantaneously and simultaneously. Depending on the mechanism of each watch company, Some annual calendars change certain information slowly rather than instantly, Making it impossible to read the calendar information accurately during the transition. Haplos prevents this, And is also an extension of the philosophy behind the Datejust.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Ref. 53505-0002
Day and month windows and pointer date
https://monochrome-watches.com

The moonphase at 6 o'clock on the dial is accurate to within one day every 122 years. Following the Cellini Moonphase, The Perpetual Padellone also uses an open disc that shows both the full moon and new moon at a glance. Unlike traditional moonphase displays, Which show the waxing and waning of the moon through a window that partially covers the disc, This watch's blue enamel disc rotates once every 29.53 days, revealing both the full moon and new moon together. This provides an open view of the night sky and two moons, Although legibility is somewhat reduced. Perhaps in response, Special attention was paid to the details of this moonphase. The blue enamel disc features a moon made of meteorite material. The full moon is rendered in silvery meteorite, While the new moon is depicted in dark blue PVD-coated meteorite. The anthropomorphic face is also impressive.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone, Blue enamel disc and meteorite moonphase
https://monochrome-watches.com

Rolex's Strategy

Based on the design of Cal. 7135 introduced in the Land-Dweller in 2025, The Cal. 7190 with integrated Haplos mechanism is installed in the Perpetual Padellone. It is rare for a mass-production brand like Rolex to adopt an escapement that deviates from the Swiss lever system, Which is almost a standard in the watch industry. Dynapulse transmits tangential impulses to the balance indirectly via two wheels and an impulse rocker, achieving higher energy efficiency than the Swiss lever system. The 71XX series also includes the Cal. 7140 of the Perpetual 1908, But the 7140 uses a Chronergy escapement. The application of Dynapulse has moved from the Land-Dweller's Cal. 7135 to the Perpetual Padellone's Cal. 7190. As these watches feature a see-through caseback exposing the movement, Great attention has been paid to finishing. They are also positioned at a relatively high price point.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Cal. 7190, See-through back and yellow gold rotor
https://monochrome-watches.com

Except for the Land-Dweller, Perpetual 1908 and Perpetual Padellone can be grouped as the Perpetual Collection. They share not only the collection name but also case shapes and details, And features such as the seven-link Settimo bracelet. Most importantly, They are defined as dress watches with 50m water resistance, Not Oyster Perpetual cases. In short, these are Rolex's high-end dress watches. Although Rolex is thriving, Dress watches have long been a weak spot. The Cellini Prince, Which attempted movement finishing to match the rectangular case and dial, And the round-case Cellini, Were not successful for Rolex. The Perpetual Padellone thoroughly analyzes the brand's archives from the name itself and reflects this throughout the watch. It is a significant evolution in terms of history, Technology and product completeness compared to previous models.

Rolex Perpetual Padellone Ref. 53505-0003
Everose gold Settimo bracelet
https://teddybaldassarre.com

As the domestic price has not yet been confirmed, Looking at overseas prices, The Everose strap version is $59, 000 and the Settimo bracelet version is $72, 800, Which is about 90 million to 110 million KRW. The Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5205R is around 126 million KRW, So if you forgo the Settimo bracelet, It becomes a realistic purchase option. Direct competition with high-end watches is inevitable. Of course, Rolex will keep production of the Perpetual Padellone low, And still enjoys a strong fan base. One thing is certain. The Perpetual Padellone is the most attractive dress watch Rolex has ever released. It will be interesting to see how Rolex, With its new large frying pan, Will cook up the dress watch market.