Rolex Yacht-Master 1

Are there any readers who actually enjoy scuba diving while wearing a luxury diver's watch? Probably not many. Today, Diver's watches are loved more as special time-telling accessories that elevate casual style rather than as tool watches for their original purpose.

The design elements of diver's watches, Such as the rotating bezel and large hour markers, Have played a significant role in opening a new dimension in fashion watches. Rolex, The brand that popularized this diver's watch design, Offers a unique professional line called the Yacht-Master. The Yacht-Master, A model that even some beginners may not know exists due to being overshadowed by the world-famous Submariner, Has recently been gaining popularity again among enthusiasts. Let us explore the history and charm of the Yacht-Master, A model that deserves renewed attention.

The History of the Yacht-Master
Efforts to Become an Independent Line

Rolex Yacht-Master Ref. 116622 / © Rolex

From its inception, The Yacht-Master has been both 'luxurious' and 'sporty.' If you think of it as a watch for stylish individuals enjoying luxurious leisure on a private yacht (the 'master' who actually owns the yacht), You will more easily understand how it differentiates itself from the Submariner.
Launched in 1992, The Yacht-Master is the newest addition to Rolex's professional watch collection. Although it was a new model rooted in the legendary Submariner, Which already held an iconic position in the watch market 30 years ago, The first Yacht-Master did not achieve notable performance upon its release.

The first Yacht-Master ref. 16628 / © Rolex

The very first Yacht-Master, Ref. 16628, Was made of 18k yellow gold. It used the Cal. 3135, Which was also featured in many popular models at the time, Including the Submariner and Datejust. Although water resistance was 100m, It was equipped with a Triplock crown, Ensuring technical excellence. The bezel was bidirectional, And the minute markers and numerals were raised, Highlighting the Yacht-Master's unique character. Despite these differentiating points from the Submariner, The market response was lukewarm. Rolex immediately began diversification plans.

Various sizes of the Yacht-Master / © Swiss Watch Expo

In 1994, The Yacht-Master introduced a 35mm midsize model and a 29mm ladies' model, Offering size options that were unusual for the professional line. These two sizes were discontinued in 2015. After this diversification strategy, The Yacht-Master evolved into a line that actively experimented with size and materials.

Yacht-Master 29 169622

29mm, Platinum, Oyster

The Yacht-Master Holds Many 'Firsts'

In addition to being the first professional watch with a 29mm size, The Yacht-Master has always been associated with 'firsts' in Rolex's development history for nearly 30 years.

Platinum

In 1997, Rolex introduced the 'Rolesium' for the first time through the Yacht-Master, Combining platinum and steel in a single watch. The first Rolesium Yacht-Master, Ref. 16622, Released to the market in 1999, Featured a platinum dial with a red second hand and YACHT-MASTER text, Which are no longer found in the current lineup after the subsequent ref. 116622. In 2012, The Rolesium Yacht-Master, Starting with ref. 116622, Also adopted slate and bright blue dials. Rolesium watches are still exclusive to the Yacht-Master and are currently available in 37mm and 40mm sizes.

Rolesium Yacht-Master ref. 16622 / © Fratello

Oysterflex

In 2015, Another 'first' came to the Yacht-Master line. The rubber Oysterflex bracelet was first applied to the Everose gold model, Ref. 116655. Ironically, The Oysterflex bracelet, Which best suits an active and dynamic lifestyle, Is only available on gold models.

Yacht-Master ref. 116655 / © Rolex

With the discontinuation of the 35mm model, The 37mm version, Ref. 268655, Was introduced as a midsize option. The 37mm version still uses the cal. 2236 movement that was installed at the time of its release, So the reference remains unchanged. It is the model with the longest unchanged reference in the current Rolex catalog.

Titanium

Titanium Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226627 / © Rolex

Did you know that Rolex's first commercial titanium watch is also a Yacht-Master? The titanium Yacht-Master ref. 226627, Unveiled at the 2023 Watches and Wonders, Is so rare in the global market that some watch enthusiasts may not even be aware of its existence. Although many enthusiasts regret its large 42mm size, It is undoubtedly a rare timepiece due to its extremely limited supply. In the United States, United Kingdom, And Japan, It commands a staggering resale price of over 52 million KRW.

Yacht-Master 42 226627

42mm, Intense black, Oyster

The Yacht-Master Is Attractive to Genuine Buyers

Yacht-Master ref. 126621, 126622 / © Everest Bands

At VIVER, The transaction volume of the Yacht-Master in 2023 doubled compared to 2022. The models that contributed most to this increase were the Rolesium and Everose Rolesor versions. If you have added the Yacht-Master to your wishlist, You have probably considered the Submariner at least once. When comparing prices with the Submariner, The Yacht-Master can be a useful tool for those who want to purchase a watch on the resale market.

ⓒ VIVER Index

First, Here is an analysis of the Yacht-Master's market price. Although not specified in the chart, The unworn price of the Rolesium model is in the 18 million KRW range, And the Everose Rolesor is in the 21 to 22 million KRW range. Unworn items do not have a negative premium, But when calculating the overall average price, A different story emerges. If you include pre-owned watches as purchase options, You have the opportunity to buy at a price lower than retail as of 2024. The resale premium for Rolesium and Rolesor Yacht-Masters is significantly lower than that of the steel Submariner. Although the retail price is higher due to the inclusion of platinum and gold, These are among the few professional models that can be purchased on the resale market at a lower price than in stores.

Submariner VS. Yacht-Master

For users who want to express their individuality through color, The Yacht-Master can be a more reasonable choice than the Submariner 'Blue Sub' or 'Black Sub.' While the Submariner 'Blue Sub' and 'Black Sub' are also vibrant in color, There is always the hurdle of higher retail and resale prices. The Rolesium offers blue and slate dial options, And the Everose Rolesor offers chocolate and black dial options, Providing a more subtle and restrained charm compared to the bold Rolesor Submariner.

Yacht-Master 40 126622

40mm, Bright blue, Oyster

Yacht-Master 40 126621

40mm, Chocolate, Oyster

Yacht-Master 40 126622

40mm, Slate, Oyster

For those sensitive to size, The Yacht-Master can also be a wiser choice. With noticeably slimmer lugs and case thickness than the Submariner, It can be comfortably worn even by those with a smaller wrist. As the only Rolex model with a rotating bezel available in a 37mm size, It is ideal for consumers who prefer a snug fit. The matte rotating bezel also adds a touch of elegance.