Why do we consume luxury watches?

Some people compare watches to highly sophisticated machines or even works of art. I do not deny the technical prowess and aesthetics of wristwatches, But it is difficult to explain their value with that alone.
If you compare a watch to a work of art, The biggest difference is that you can wear it. From the moment you choose it, It stays with you and becomes part of your body, And its uniqueness allows you to feel its beauty. Therefore, Choosing a watch is about deciding how you will wear it on your wrist and what you want it to represent. With this rather ordinary premise, I would like to introduce my favorite watch, The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 56175TT.

How should you wear it?

The reason I use the expression "wear" instead of "put on" a watch is because the main character of this article is the Royal Oak. What does it mean to "wear" a Royal Oak?

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 56715TT Photo courtesy: SILLIONS

If you think of today's Royal Oak design, This may not resonate. To understand this, You need to look at the very first Royal Oak and focus on what designer Gerald Genta intended. Then you will naturally understand why today's enthusiasts are so obsessed with "integrated watches."

What was Gerald Genta's intention?

Gerald Genta’s two masterpieces are the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. Except for the fact that the Nautilus emphasizes curves and the Royal Oak emphasizes straight lines, Both are beautiful in similar ways and were created based on the same philosophy. In my opinion, Gerald Genta was someone who wanted to break the trend of focusing watch design on the "head" and believed that an elegant watch should be worn "like a bracelet."

© Revolution watch

The first Genta watches had wide bracelets. The bracelet starts with a width almost equal to the watch head, So that there is no distinction between the head and the band, Creating a natural sense of unity. The bracelet tapers toward the end for comfort. The entire band, Which is several times larger than the case, Was crafted with as much care as the main body. At the time, All competitors simply used leather straps, But Genta focused on the band as an important design element.

On top of that, The watch is less than 8mm thick, "as thin as a bracelet, " giving it a unique charm compared to ordinary watches with protruding heads. If you compare it to clothing, It is like wearing a light cashmere knit. Since the Royal Oak clings to the skin, Isn't "wearing" it the right expression?

Why I chose the Royal Oak 56715

This is why I chose the 56175 model. Although it was not designed directly by Gerald Genta, I believe it best inherits his philosophy. To this day, The Royal Oak has undergone significant changes with the times, And instead of unity, It now emphasizes presence, With the case becoming thick enough to be distinguished from the band. I admired the perfect proportions of the original Royal Oak model, With its 39mm diameter and 8mm thickness, So I had to find another answer.

Photo courtesy: SILLIONS

The 56175 is smaller at 33mm, But uses a quartz movement so it is only 5mm thick. Because of this, I sometimes think it is even more wearable than the 5402. You might think 33mm is too small, But thanks to the Royal Oak's design, It actually wears like a 36mm round watch, So it is comfortable to wear.

Royal Oak 15300 / Photo courtesy: SILLIONS

Of course, I did not find a watch I liked this much from the beginning. My first Royal Oak was the 39mm 15300 model. It was a fantastic watch, But I did not feel attached to it. For my 16.5cm wrist, The "number" 39mm sounded perfect, But when I actually wore it, The links fixed to the lugs made it feel big and uncomfortable.
On the other hand, The 56175 is almost tailored for the slender wrists of East Asians. Since it has a quartz movement, The price is relatively affordable as well. In summary, I wanted a fit so thin that the case and band looked like one, So I could "wrap it like a bracelet." That is why I wear the 56175.

What do I want it to represent?

Everyone has something that holds special meaning. Even a cheap snack can bring back childhood memories. When it comes to wristwatches, I think it is okay to attach even greater meaning. After all, I spent a lot of money! For me, The Royal Oak represents a blessing in disguise.
How can something that symbolizes "flex" represent a blessing in disguise?
To explain this, I cannot avoid the story of the Quartz Crisis, Which is familiar to watch enthusiasts. Since it is the background to the birth of the luxury sports watch, I hope you will read it. (I kept it short^^;)

© Audemars Piguet

The Quartz Crisis caused by Japanese watch companies dealt a huge blow to the Swiss watch industry. The watches were affordable, High-performing, And durable. Industrial growth brought cultural upheaval. The times were changing rapidly.
Young tycoons no longer felt the need to wear "gold mechanical watches" like their fathers. (Even now, Gold watches with leather straps are avoided for being flashy, So you can understand how they felt.) As a result, Many Swiss watch companies went bankrupt.

Audemars Piguet had to do something to survive. They focused all their resources on developing the Royal Oak, Which was a radical idea at the time. An octagonal bezel, Large, Made of cheap steel, But sold at a very high price. To the refined European middle-aged watch enthusiasts, It may have seemed "vulgar."
However, Thanks to its unique and differentiated design, Young tycoons finally had a reason to wear a wristwatch. With the launch of the Royal Oak, Audemars Piguet achieved great success even in difficult times and created the genre of "luxury sports watch." They became a company that could sell steel like gold with design alone.
That is why the Royal Oak is nicknamed "the first watch to treat steel as precious as gold." Just as it was the first to treat the band as precious as the case. Without the crisis of the Quartz Crisis, Could such a "vulgar" watch have been born? It is like a flower blooming in the mud. Is it just a nice interpretation? It may sound funny, But I learned the spirit of challenge from the birth of the Royal Oak.

Me and my watch

The story so far is about the Royal Oak itself, Not about me. The Speedmaster that went to the moon is cool, But if I never look at the stars at night, What does it matter? To form a bond, There must be something special that appeals to me.

Photo courtesy: SILLIONS

The greatest charm of the 56175TT lies in its material. This is truly "killer." It is mostly made of dark tantalum, With stainless steel mixed in for a two-tone color. Tantalum and steel differ in brightness and light reflection, But both have a grayish tone. The subtle balance between distinction and unity is the beauty of this watch. The sense of unity reduces the risk of the watch appearing ostentatious, While the contrast highlights the details of the Royal Oak bracelet. It reduces exactly what I want to reduce and enhances what I want to enhance.

56175TT.00.0789TT.01 © sothebys

The 56175TT is a watch that fits the word "stealth." Most people think of stealth as a fighter jet and get a cool impression, But it simply means it is not flashy. I once bought a Royal Oak made entirely of steel, But the dazzling light reflection from the links made me uncomfortable, So I rarely wore it and eventually sold it.

On the other hand, The 56175TT is made of tantalum, So it is dark in color and reflects very little light, Making it unobtrusive. The Royal Oak is a watch with distinctive features that people easily recognize, But this reduces that burden a bit. I do not expect to meet someone somewhere who will infer the reason I chose this material and appreciate my taste and thoughtfulness. It is just a way to declare my preferences to myself, But I put my taste and thoughts into choosing this watch. If someone recognizes that, I would be lucky!

I am not saying, "This is the perfect watch for you!" I am simply showing one way I enjoy watches.
In summary, This watch, Made to be "easy to wear" as the original creator intended, Carries the grand meaning of a blessing in disguise and fits my needs perfectly. Now that I have written it down, It seems like a dream watch, But for someone with a different perspective, It may be very disappointing. We are all different and have our own tastes. I truly believe that.

Yes, I have praised an ordinary watch as if it were something great. But is that not natural for me? It is always the user who gives value to a watch.