What is the Rolexicon?

‘Rolexicon’ refers to Rolex’s unique terms and symbols and has now become a genre of its own. Experts in this field can deduce the material, Characteristics and approximate production period just by looking at the reference. They can also read the dial and crown as if deciphering a code and identify the type of movement and water resistance system.

Rolex’s Differentiation Strategy

The history of the Rolexicon began when the brand’s founder Hans Wilsdorf launched the world’s first waterproof and dustproof watch under the name ‘Oyster’ in 1926. Rolex is a brand that values originality above all else. There are no exceptions even for terms commonly used in the watch industry. The mechanism where a rotating rotor automatically winds the mainspring is usually called self-winding or automatic but Rolex named it ‘Perpetual’ because it was a mechanism first developed and patented by Rolex in 1931. In other brands the term is mainly used for perpetual calendar mechanisms.

In addition, Two-tone models are called ‘Rolesor’ and ‘Rolesium’ pink gold (or red gold) is called ‘Everose Gold’ and rubber bands are called ‘Oysterflex Bracelet’. Some of these are types that Rolex developed completely anew but most appear to be strategies for differentiation. Nicknames attached to famous references such as ‘Hulk’ or ‘Pepsi’ can also be considered a type of Rolexicon in a broad sense.

At first it may seem confusing but once you get used to it another layer of enjoyment opens up for Rolex enthusiasts. So what types of Rolexicon are there and how far does their scope extend? VIVER has covered some of these before but this time we have compiled a comprehensive summary. For more details please click the hyperlinks to be directed to the original magazine articles.

Reference Number Ref.

VIVER Magazine - How to Read Reference Numbers

A reference number distinguishes each model. It is different from the serial number that identifies each individual product like a resident registration number. The current
reference number consists of a six-digit number indicating production period, Model type, Bezel type and material and an alphabet indicating bezel color.

Crown

Twinlock ⓒ Rolex

Twinlock

A double-sealed crown patented in 1953. It added a rubber O-ring and gasket to the existing screw-down method. The gasket is inside the crown and the O-ring is inside the tube that surrounds the winding stem (the part connecting the middle case and the crown. If it is screw-down, Threads are engraved). When the crown is tightened (screw-down) the O-ring and gasket form an airlock to enhance water resistance. The O-ring on the crown tube, Together with the metal gasket connected to the inner tube of the case, More effectively prevents water from entering the case even when the crown is unscrewed. The Twinlock and the material of the watch can be identified by the number of dots and straight lines under the Rolex crown logo on the crown.

Rolex Twinlock Crown Markings

They can be broadly classified as steel or yellow gold/ ⋅⋅ white gold/ ⋅ platinum but depending on the size and structure of the crown, Sometimes both a straight line and two dots are used even for the same model. This is mainly the case for steel and yellow gold Rolesor models with reference numbers ending in 3 and yellow gold models with reference numbers ending in 8. In fact, The Explorer 36 steel and yellow gold Rolesor models have two dots on the crown.

Non-Monobloc ⓒ clockmaker

To briefly touch on the structure of the crown, In the past Rolex made gold crowns by ‘covering’ a steel crown with a gold cap (non-monobloc). Currently, They are made by pressing a single gold block onto a steel winding stem (monobloc). ‘Non-monobloc’ applies to vintage Rolex models.

Triplock ⓒ Rolex

Triplock

A triple-sealed crown created in 1970 for the professional deep-sea diver watch Sea-Dweller. Basically similar to the Twinlock crown but the structure consists of one gasket inside the crown, One outside the tube, One between the tube and the middle case, And two O-rings inside the tube.

Difference between Twinlock and Triplock ⓒ Rubber b

It may be hard to understand just from the text but the photos make it clear. The Triplock crown is mainly installed on professional watches that require more reliable water resistance such as the Submariner, Deepsea and Yacht-Master.

Rolex Triplock Crown Markings

Structurally, The Triplock crown is larger than the Twinlock so it is easy to distinguish but you can also identify it by the three dots under the crown logo. The material is distinguished by the size of the dots.

Glass

Cyclops Lens ⓒ Monochrome

Cyclops

A small convex lens attached to the sapphire crystal glass that magnifies the date window. Since its first introduction on the Datejust in 1953, It has become one of Rolex’s most famous signatures. The name comes from the one-eyed giant in Greek mythology. There are several origin stories for the Cyclops lens but the most widely accepted is that Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf came up with the idea after seeing a water droplet on his watch while washing his hands.

Case

Oyster Case ⓒ Millenarywatches

Oyster

A waterproof and dustproof case structure patented by Rolex in 1926. It consists of sapphire crystal glass, Fluted bezel, Case, Gasket, Screw-down case back and screw-down crown and guarantees water resistance up to 100m.

Rolex Ringlock System ⓒ Rolex

Ringlock

A system that effectively withstands pressure applied to the watch by tightly fastening a thick sapphire crystal glass, A high-strength BioDur 108 steel ring with high nitrogen content in the middle case, And an RLX titanium case back with a screw-down Oystersteel ring. It debuted in 2008 on the Sea-Dweller Deepsea Ref. 116660. Thanks to this system, Ref. 116660 achieved water resistance of 3, 900m, Far exceeding the standard Sea-Dweller’s 1, 220m.

Bracelet

Easylink ⓒ Rolex

Easylink

A function that allows you to easily and quickly extend or shorten the bracelet by about 5mm. It is hidden inside the clasp cover. This extension system was patented in 1996. Rolex takes pride in the fact that this subtle difference allows the bracelet to satisfy both a ‘comfort fit’ and a ‘perfectly snug fit’.

Glidelock ⓒ Rolex

Glidelock

A device that allows you to adjust the length of the bracelet in 2mm increments up to about 15–20mm without any tools. It is convenient because you do not need to remove or add links.

Fliplock ⓒ Rolex

Fliplock

A device that instantly extends the bracelet by about 26mm when you unfold three blades that are usually folded under the clasp cover. It can be worn over a 7mm thick wetsuit without difficulty and is mainly used for professional diver watch lines.

Oyster Bracelet ⓒ Rolex

Oyster Bracelet
Oyster Bracelet

A three-link bracelet introduced in the 1930s. It is the least decorative and most robust, So it is widely used on models where practicality is important such as the Submariner, Explorer, Oyster Perpetual and Air-King. For the Datejust, The look and feel can change completely depending on whether it is paired with an Oyster bracelet or a Jubilee bracelet.

Jubilee Bracelet
Jubilee Bracelet

A five-link bracelet with shorter links in the center and longer links on the edges. It is very comfortable to wear but the links may stretch over time. It was introduced in 1945 at Rolex’s 40th anniversary event along with the Datejust and was named ‘Jubilee’ to mean ‘anniversary’.

President Bracelet
President Bracelet

A semi-circular three-link bracelet introduced in 1956 along with the Day-Date. It is fastened with a crown clasp. In line with the Day-Date, Which is made only in gold and platinum, The President bracelet is also made only of precious metals. Thanks to its popularity among many US presidents including Lyndon Johnson and John F. Kennedy, ‘President’ or ‘Presidential’ has become a nickname for the Day-Date.

Oysterflex Bracelet
Oysterflex Bracelet

Known as Rolex’s rubber band but it is different from ordinary rubber bands. It is a true bracelet with a metal core made of titanium and nickel alloy covered with an elastomer material. Elastomer is a type of synthetic resin that combines the stretchiness of rubber and the easy processing of plastic. The Oysterflex bracelet was unveiled in 2015 with the Yacht-Master 37.

Oyster Clasp
Oyster Clasp

A standard folding buckle style with a cover. You can completely open the buckle by lifting part of the cover with your fingernail. It is usually used with the Oyster bracelet but recently the Oyster clasp has also started to be applied to the Jubilee bracelet.

Oysterlock
Oyster Lock

A safety device that locks the folding buckle once more to prevent accidental opening. It is mainly used on professional watches. The Rolex crown logo is on the safety device so you can distinguish it from the Oyster clasp.

Crown Clasp
Crown Clasp

A hidden clasp mainly used for the President bracelet. When the buckle is closed only the Rolex crown remains visible. In the past it was also used for the Jubilee bracelet and Pearlmaster bracelet but it is now mainly found on the President bracelet.

* Continued in <Rolex’s Special Symbols ‘Rolexicon’ Part 2>.

Tampa

Writer

Watch Columnist