Rolexicon

Continued from last week’s <Rolex’s Special Symbols ‘Rolexicon’ Part 1>. In this part, We summarize Rolex’s unique terminology used for bezels, Dials, Materials, And movements.

Bezel

Fluted ⓒ Rolex

Fluted

A bezel with a serrated groove pattern. In the past, It served as a functional element to securely seal the Oyster case by screwing it down with a special tool along with the case back. Today, It is produced only in gold and is mainly decorative.

Cerachrom ⓒ Rolex

Rolex’s ceramic bezel introduced in 2005. The name combines ceramic and color. Since 2013, It has been produced in two-tone colors. It is more resistant to discoloration and scratches than traditional aluminum insert bezels.

Ring Command ⓒ Rolex

Ring Command

A bezel that works in conjunction with the movement to change watch functions. First introduced in 2007 on the Yacht-Master II, It allows the setting of a countdown. In 2012, It was applied to the fluted bezel of the Sky-Dweller. It allows you to change local time, Home time, And the date.

Dial

Coronet ⓒ Rolexmagazine

Coronet

Refers to the Rolex crown logo. The small coronet between ‘swiss’ and ‘made’ at 6 o’clock on the dial indicates a new movement is installed.

Cosmograph ⓒ Rolex

Cosmograph

A term Rolex uses for watches with chronograph functions. The first use of ‘Cosmograph’ on the Daytona dates back to the 1960s. It appears to be derived from the 1950s neologism ‘cosmography’ which explains the relationship between geology, Geography, And astronomy.

Explorer 6150 with Mercedes Hand ⓒ Revolution

Mercedes Hand

The hour hand resembling the Mercedes-Benz three-pointed star, Also known as the ‘Mercedes Star’. This design first appeared on the Explorer Ref. 6150 in 1953. At the time, Radium was used as a luminous material, But it would often crack when applied in large areas. Tritium, Which appeared in the 1960s as a new luminous material, Had the same issue. Hans Wilsdorf addressed this by dividing the circular hour hand into three sections, Providing enough luminous area while solving the cracking problem.

Chromalight ⓒ Rolex

Chromalight

Rolex’s luminous material made by mixing phosphorescent powder into liquid resin. It appears white during the day but glows blue at night.

Deepsea with D-blue Dial ⓒ Rolex

D-blue

Refers to the two-tone dial of the Deepsea Ref. 116660 D-blue model, Commemorating James Cameron’s ‘Deepsea Challenge’. The gradient expresses the deep sea beautifully.

Deep Sea 116660

44mm, D-blue, Oyster

Milgauss with Z-blue Dial ⓒ Rolex

Z-blue

The electric blue sunray brushed dial of the now discontinued Milgauss Ref. 116400GV. It boasts a unique radiance that spreads like sunlight depending on the angle. Introduced in 2014, It features green sapphire crystal glass and an orange lightning-shaped seconds hand, Completing the unique aura of Ref. 116400GV.

Milgauss 116400GV

40mm, Z-Blue, Oyster

Material

904L Oystersteel ⓒ Watchchest

Oystersteel

Rolex’s name for 904L steel used in its watches. 904L steel is more resistant to corrosion and can be polished to a higher shine than the 316L steel commonly used in stainless steel watches. Rolex has used 904L steel since 1985, But the name Oystersteel was officially used in advertising starting in 2018.

Everose Gold ⓒ Rolex

Everose Gold

Rolex’s proprietary 18-carat pink gold alloy developed in 2005. It is known to be composed of 70% gold, 20% copper, And palladium and indium, But the exact ratio is a secret. This alloy is possible because Rolex owns its own foundry.

RLX Titanium ⓒ Rolex

RLX Titanium

Rolex’s carefully selected grade 5 titanium. It is lighter than steel, Denser than aluminum, Highly strong and corrosion-resistant, And is known not to cause skin allergies. However, It is difficult to process. Rolex has used RLX titanium for parts of the Ringlock system and the case back of the Deepsea Ref. 126660, And in 2021, Created the first RLX titanium watch, The Yacht-Master 42 No-Date prototype, For Olympic yacht champion Sir Ben Ainslie. In 2023, The Yacht-Master 42 Ref. 226627 was introduced, Marking its commercial debut.

Yacht-Master 42 226627

42mm, Intense Black, Oyster

Rolesor ⓒ Rolex

Rolesor

Rolex’s term for bi-color models combining stainless steel and gold, Also known as two-tone models.

Rolesium

While Rolesor refers to a combination of stainless steel and gold, Rolesium refers to a combination of platinum and stainless steel.

Yacht-Master 40 116622

40mm, Platinum, Oyster

Movement

Paraflex

Rolex’s shock absorber that protects the balance wheel’s pivot not only from vertical but also horizontal shocks. In mechanical watches, Incabloc and Kif are commonly used. Kif presses the jewel at three points, While Incabloc presses at two.

Incabloc is said to be sufficient with just two contact points due to its wide contact area. Paraflex has a contact surface that crosses the center of the jewel. According to Rolex, It increases resistance to shocks, Especially when the watch is dropped, And helps maintain the precise movement of the balance wheel. It is also said to be advantageous for checking the amount of lubricant.

Parachrom

A hairspring made from a niobium and zirconium alloy with an anti-oxidation coating. It is highly resistant to magnetism and shocks. Introduced in 2005, It is characterized by Rolex’s signature blue color.

Syloxi ⓒ Rolex

Syloxi

A silicon hairspring introduced in 2014 with Caliber 2236. It is highly resistant to magnetism and temperature changes. Thanks to its fixing system that maintains the center and level of the hairspring, It is known to work well with the Paraflex shock absorber.

Chronergy

The escapement, Consisting of the escape wheel and anchor, Evenly distributes power between the balance wheel and gear train. It is a crucial part that determines the accuracy of the watch and is one of the most stressed components due to its constant movement. In 2015, Rolex developed the Chronergy escapement, Which is free from magnetic influence and about 15% more efficient. As a result, Movements equipped with the Chronergy escapement now have a power reserve of 70 hours.

Tampa

Writer

Watch Columnist