For those who have preferred ‘mid-size’ watches under 40mm, There may be no news more welcome than this. Recently, The luxury watch market has been experiencing a wave of size changes, And many have already noticed this shift. While most watches today present 40mm or larger as the standard, For those seeking a truly personal fit, A smaller size often suits them better. Rather than a watch that overwhelms the wearer, Timepieces that blend naturally with the wearer’s style and overall atmosphere are coming back into the spotlight.

Blancpain introduced a new turning point to the image of large diver watches by launching its iconic Fifty Fathoms diver watch in a 38mm size for the first time. Cartier’s sports watch lineup, The Santos, Also finally released a small case size, Providing more options for those with slender wrists. Tudor quietly brought back the beloved Black Bay 54 to its catalog after two years, Naturally joining this trend. The range of choices is becoming more detailed through downsizing. For everyone who has been waiting for a ‘perfect fit’ watch, Now may be the time to be rewarded for your patience.

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatic 38

The Fifty Fathoms is synonymous with oversized diver watches. Blancpain has released the Fifty Fathoms in a 38mm size for the first time. However, The initial 38mm models were launched in unique configurations with rose gold and titanium cases paired with mother-of-pearl dials, Rather than the classic black or blue, Leaving some fans who expected a classic daily diver a bit disappointed. In retrospect, This was a preview ahead of a full lineup expansion. Later, The familiar black and blue dial 38mm models were released, Turning anticipation into excitement.

Just two years after the release of the 42mm reference 5010 in 2023, A new size has appeared. While not a dramatic transformation, This additional downsizing may have surprised many. Limited edition models such as Barracuda, Mil-Spec, No Rad, And Act series in 40mm have been consistently introduced, But many consumers still seemed to expect a 40mm as part of the regular lineup. In reality, 40mm remained a size exclusive to limited editions.

This 38mm version is available in three case materials: stainless steel, Grade 23 titanium, And 18K red gold, With various strap options for a total of 16 combinations. The black and blue bezel models come with four strap options: sail canvas, NATO, ‘tropic’ rubber, And metal bracelet. For those familiar with the Fifty Fathoms collection, These are familiar combinations.

The design overall faithfully follows the unique DNA of the Fifty Fathoms. The steel model features a fully polished case to highlight the charm of a luxury diver, While the titanium model uses a brushed finish to emphasize the robust feel of a tool watch. The lug-to-lug length is 43.8mm and the lug width is 19mm, Resulting in a smaller and neater fit than typical 38mm watches. For reference, The lug-to-lug of the Rolex Explorer Ref. 124270 is about 43.2mm. These dimensions provide a secure fit for men with slender wrists as well as female users, Enhancing its appeal as a true unisex diver watch.

The dial is available in black or blue with a sunray finish, And the hands and applied indexes are made of white gold. The red gold model uses the same red gold material for a unified aesthetic. The clean, Step-free layout adopted from the 42mm model is a natural choice that maintains visual balance even on the smaller dial. The bezel features a unidirectional rotating structure and retains the signature sapphire insert. All indexes, Hands, And bezel markers are treated with Super-LumiNova for luminous visibility.

The movement is the Caliber 1150, Also used in the Villeret collection and the 38mm Bathyscaphe model. This movement allows the case thickness to be just 12mm, Which is 2mm thinner than the previous 42mm model. It offers a 100-hour power reserve, Anti-magnetic performance thanks to a silicon balance spring, And a retro-style NAC-coated 18K gold rotor with textured finishing visible through the transparent sapphire case back.

The two models released earlier have even more distinctive personalities. The rose gold + black mother-of-pearl dial model expresses depth with a dégradé effect, Transitioning from a light smoky gray in the center to a deep black at the edge. Each dial has a different texture, So every watch has a subtly unique expression, Which is quite impressive. In contrast, The grade 23 titanium model is unified in pink tones across the entire watch, Including the hands, Indexes, Bezel insert, And NATO strap, Delivering a cheerful and youthful energy.

Santos de Cartier Small

Cartier has also introduced a ‘first’. For the first time since the relaunch of the Santos de Cartier collection in 2018, A small size model has officially joined the lineup. The initial offerings include three versions: stainless steel, Two-tone steel and yellow gold, And yellow gold.

This small size model inherits the design language of the existing medium and large sizes. Although similar in size to the discontinued Santos Galbée, Its identity is thoroughly that of the modern Santos de Cartier. The case features refined curves, And the polished bezel seamlessly connects to the bracelet’s end links, Creating an impressive silhouette.

The case size is 34.5mm (lug-to-lug) × 27mm. This is good news not only for male collectors who miss the compact size of the old Galbée series, But also for female consumers who wanted to wear Cartier’s sports watches more comfortably. For reference, The medium size differs by 7.4mm in lug-to-lug length, Significantly reducing the burden for those with slender wrists.

The dial uses a silver tone with a sunray finish, Creating a distinctly different atmosphere from the opaline dials often seen in previous Santos models. This choice helps the small size model retain its presence even in a smaller case, Making its identity even clearer.

Comparison of small and large sizes<br/>© Cartier

Comparison of small and large sizes
© Cartier

At first glance, It may seem like a simple resizing, But the technical configuration is quite different from the medium and large models. The biggest difference is that it uses a quartz movement instead of an automatic. This decision was made for practicality as a daily wear watch and, Above all, To maintain a slim case profile. In fact, The thickness is only 7.08mm.

There are also changes to the strap replacement system. The QuickSwitch function, Similar to the one seen on the Ballon Bleu model, Now uses an internal lever that is pushed to attach or detach, Rather than a button. There are also differences in the bracelet and clasp. The hidden clasp structure, Similar to that used in the Panthère watch, Opens by pulling directly by hand without a push button. This design omits the button for harmony with the small size. The SmartLink system, Which allows for easy link removal, Has been omitted from the small size.

The water resistance is 30m, Suitable for daily life, But it is unlikely that customers who choose the Santos Small will engage in intense activities while wearing it. Overall, It is a beautifully refined design and an excellent alternative for those who found the sizing of the existing Santos Medium model challenging. Most notably, It is a welcome addition for those tired of the familiarity of the Panthère and Tank, As Cartier’s sports watch options are now available.

Tudor Black Bay 54, "Lagoon Blue"

In recent years, Tudor has been producing hit after hit. Each year, The brand continues to capture the tastes of collectors, And some models even command resale premiums. Daring Watches, An experimental curation that breaks away from the brand’s established ‘grammar’ while maintaining its unique identity, Is the series enjoying this premium. While it was expected that a smaller size would eventually join the Daring Watches curation, Which had been built up with 41mm and 42mm models, The choice of 37mm was a surprising one.

The next star of Daring Watches is the Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue”. This model, Featuring vibrant Miami-themed colors, Evokes both adventurous sportiness and relaxed luxury. While the Black Bay 54 itself is an homage to Tudor’s first Submariner Ref. 7922, The “Lagoon Blue” brings to mind elements from the Prince Date Submariner and Hydronaut era of the 1990s and 2000s.

At the heart of this model is the “Lagoon Blue” dial with a sand-textured finish. This is not just a color variation following the ‘Tiffany Blue’ trend, But a watch where the dial, Case, And bracelet harmoniously blend to create a cohesive tone. The key point that brings out the charm of “Lagoon Blue” is the mirror polishing. The dial hands and indexes are all mirror-polished, Shining brightly even in strong reflections. The bezel follows the same theme. The long-unused mirror-polished rotating bezel has returned, And the sand-textured hour and minute markers engraved on it ensure excellent legibility even on the reflective surface.

Finally, The bracelet supporting all these elements is constructed with a five-link structure, Unlike the existing Black Bay 54. Reminiscent of Rolex’s Jubilee bracelet, The central links are polished, Providing a unified visual tone and serving as a key aesthetic point.

The movement is the same Calibre MT5400 as the existing Black Bay 54. It features a frequency of 28, 800vph, A 70-hour power reserve, A silicon balance spring, And has received COSC chronometer certification. While it is not the METAS-certified movement used in the latest Black Bay 58 lineup, It meets Tudor’s internal standard of daily accuracy within -2/+4 seconds. Rather than an upgrade of the Black Bay 54, This model is best seen as a color variation focused on design and atmosphere.

Not all consumers want military-inspired vintage designs. The Daring Watches collection can also be seen as part of a trend to pursue a more modern sensibility. Tudor continues to reinterpret past designs by referencing its archives, While also consistently releasing lighter Black Bay models. This trend is expected to continue in the future.

Young

Writer

My dream is to become the king of watches.