Diver Watch

Today, As sports watches have become mainstream, From high-end watchmakers who have traditionally insisted on dress watches to entry-level affordable brands, Everyone is now presenting diver watches. In the fiercely competitive diver watch market, There are two timepieces that have captured the public's attention. They are the Rolex Submariner and the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M.

Rolex Submariner 126610LN, Omega Seamaster Diver 300

The Submariner, The origin and bible of diver watches, And the Seamaster Diver 300M, Which has quickly risen to stand shoulder to shoulder with it, Always present a dilemma for both beginners and enthusiasts. Which watch should you choose to make a wise purchase? To find the answer, Let us compare the watches from these two brands in detail.

Specification Comparison

Let us compare the Submariner and the Seamaster Diver 300M (hereafter Seamaster Professional) starting from the basic specifications. At first glance, They look similar, But a closer look reveals many differences.

Submariner 126610LN, Seamaster Professional Detailed Specification Comparison

There are few brands that can surpass Rolex in terms of performance. The Seamaster Professional is also an excellent watch, But the Submariner has a longer power reserve and a narrower daily deviation. Both have 300m water resistance, But the Submariner is thinner and lighter. The hands and markers on the Submariner dial are gold-plated, Making them more resistant to discoloration than the rhodium-plated Seamaster Professional.

Submariner Bezel, Seamaster Professional Bezel
© Revolution, © ABTW

Rotating Bezel

The rotating bezel, Which can serve as a timer, Is one of the core features of a diver watch. The Submariner is highly praised as the best in this field. The grip of the bezel, The feel of the clicks when rotating, And the smoothness of the rotation are all considered overwhelmingly superior in the current Submariner. The bezel of the Seamaster Professional has a unique design, But it is often said that the grip is somewhat lacking.
However, The Seamaster has two attractive points that the Submariner does not have. The helium escape valve (HEV) and an almost perfect anti-magnetic movement. The part that looks like a crown at the 10 o'clock position is the HEV. It is literally used to release helium that enters the watch during saturation diving. Although it is rarely used in practice, It is meaningful as a symbol of the addition of a diving-related function.

Rolex Cal. 3235, Omega Cal. 8800
© Rolex, © Omega

Hairspring

Rolex has equipped most of its movements with Parachrom hairsprings, Focusing on enhanced durability.
On the other hand, The current Seamaster Professional is fitted with a silicon-based 'Si14' silicium hairspring, Which is unaffected by magnetic fields up to 15, 000 gauss. In other words, It is immune to magnetism even next to an MRI machine. However, Silicon hairsprings are known to be less durable.

Submariner Date 126610LN

41mm, Black, Oyster

Diver 300M 210.30.42.20.01.001

42mm, Black

Heritage and Design

Release Dates of Submariner and Seamaster

In the watch market, Where heritage is a weapon, The Submariner celebrates its 70th anniversary this year, And the Seamaster its 30th. The Submariner has set the standard for diver watch design for 70 years, While the Seamaster Professional has presented new possibilities for design development over the past 30 years.

ⓒ passion-horlogere.com

Simple Classic - Submariner

The Submariner, Which was created as a tool watch from the beginning, Is defined by its simplicity. Its design philosophy is direct and practical, True to its tool watch nature. The large markers, A mix of dots, Bars, And triangles, Are all designed for timing and legibility.
This simplicity extends from the dial to the case itself. The Rolex Oyster case features elegant curves, But the gear-shaped bezel gives it a solid and straightforward image. This design is so iconic that it has become a cliché for diver watches. So many brands have been influenced by the design that the Submariner's look has become universal. The timeless appeal of the Submariner, Unchanged for 70 years, Proves that Rolex presented a complete design from the very beginning.

ⓒ Bob’s watches

From 1953 to the present, Subsequent lineups have inherited this tradition, But the line is not maintained solely through reissues. There is a variety of collections with variations in dial and bezel colors and the use of alloy materials in the case.

Submariner Date 126613LB

41mm, Royal Blue, Oyster

Submariner Date 126613LN

41mm, Black, Oyster

ⓒ Hodinkee

Modern - Seamaster Professional

The Seamaster Professional is one of the few diver watches that has become an icon in a short period. Thirty years is not short, But in the watch industry, It is not particularly long either. Over 30 years, The Seamaster Professional has built its heritage in a very different way, Appealing to the market through diversification strategies.

1st to 4th Generation Seamaster Professional
© The Ace List

From the first to the fourth generation, The Seamaster Professional is a line that has paid special attention to detailed features to maximize customer satisfaction. The position of the date window, The dial pattern, The size, And the functions have all evolved. Now, The catalog is so rich with color combinations, Materials, And added features that it is difficult to list them all. It even features a transparent case back, Which the Submariner does not have, Providing visual enjoyment in various ways.

Diver 300M 210.30.42.20.06.001

42mm, Grey

The current collection offers more than 40 varieties. There are about five times more options than the Submariner collection. While maintaining a consistent design language, Models with unique features are regularly introduced, And the catalog continues to expand.

Seamaster Variety - 2024 Paris Olympics / ⓒ Omega

To explain the consistent design language, There are three representative features that embody the unique identity of the Seamaster Professional. First is the wave pattern, Which enhances the marine theme. The wave pattern, Used since the first generation (except the third), Is now laser-engraved to provide a distinctive three-dimensional effect. The second is the bezel, Which is differentiated from others. The bezel has grooves expressed by bevelling every five minutes, And it has now become as famous as the dial itself. Lastly, There is the nine-row bracelet, Which appears as five rows.

Market Value That Cannot Be Ignored

Depending on how you define the word 'value', The criteria for choosing between these two diver watches become clear. Is it a symbolic timepiece with a high premium and outstanding market value even after long-term ownership, Or is it a high-end watch that you can acquire wisely at a price lower than retail due to a lower premium? When choosing a valuable watch, Each individual's perspective on the premium will differ depending on their own watch lifestyle.

Retail Price, Resale Price Comparison

Premiums always have pros and cons. Due to explosive demand, It is almost impossible to purchase a Submariner at retail, And this popularity is immediately reflected in the resale market. The Submariner Date ref. 126610LN trades at a premium of over 30%, And the green bezel ref. 126610LV trades at a premium of over 60%. As long as demand does not stop, The Submariner will always carry a premium.

Submariner Date 126610LV

41mm, Black, Oyster

For those who want to reduce the financial burden, The Seamaster Professional, Which has no resale premium, Is ideal. Major models are traded at about -20% off retail for new, Unworn pieces, And used ones can go down to -40% depending on condition. Watches in the 7 to 8 million won range can be purchased from as low as 5 million won. Even the 007 edition is traded at or below retail price. If you want to start your high-end watch journey in earnest, The Seamaster Professional is an excellent candidate.

Diver 300M 210.30.42.20.10.001

42mm, Green

In the End, There Is No Wrong Choice

The Rolex Submariner is a timeless icon filled with a rich history and heritage. Wearing this watch means owning a piece of history that has made its mark on the world of horology. With careful maintenance, Its value is preserved over time. The Omega Seamaster Professional, Though with a shorter history, Has the modern appeal to rival the Submariner. If it continues to highlight and enhance its unique features, It will soon be recognized for its heritage as well. As mentioned earlier, The decisive factor in choosing a watch depends on where you place the value.