What kind of person is a 'fashionable person'?

Perhaps it is someone who looks ordinary but has a clear sense of distinction in their style.
Interestingly, Most people who choose the Rolex Explorer are exactly that kind of person.

A watch that perfectly balances familiarity and uniqueness, The Explorer is a Rolex you can trust yet is a little different from other Rolex models. Let us take a closer look at the Explorer.

Those who know will recognize it

The Explorer is not a watch that draws attention on the outside. However, The person wearing the Explorer can certainly attract attention.

Personally, The Explorer owners I know are truly impressive. From rock and roll to Bearbrick, There are people who have encyclopedic knowledge of decades of pop culture, People who drive an air-cooled Porsche 911 from the 1980s in downtown Seoul, And even those who collect as many as five Explorer models. They all have one thing in common: they have built their own unique tastes and personalities.

The design of the Explorer is simple and straightforward. However, Those who choose the Explorer are never people who make 'safe choices.' In my experience, It is rather people who live interesting lives who choose this seemingly ordinary watch and are willing to pay a premium for its special value.

The real James Bond wore an Explorer, Not a Submariner

When talking about Explorer owners with many stories, We cannot leave out the 'father of James Bond.' Ian Fleming, The author of our most beloved spy novels, Actually wore an Explorer Ref. 1016 as his daily watch.

Therefore, The James Bond in his novels wore an Explorer, Unlike the Bond in the movies. In the 1962 novel "On Her Majesty's Secret Service, " Fleming describes Bond's watch as follows.

"Another Rolex?…you could see the time in the dark with those big phosphorous numerals"

At that time, The only Rolex with large luminous numerals on the dial was the Explorer. Watch experts, Including Teddy Baldassarre, Claim that the watch Fleming mentioned was indeed the Explorer.

Since James Bond was an alter ego for Ian Fleming, It is highly likely that Bond's watch was inspired by the Explorer he wore himself.

While the Bond in classic films is known for wearing a Submariner, The original literary spy chose a much simpler watch.

A watch made
to enjoy the 'charm of an explorer' every day

Then, Is the difference between the regular Oyster Perpetual (OP) and the OP Explorer really that significant? In fact, The two watches have the same movement, The same case, And even the same water resistance.

In conclusion, It is the small details such as the luminous '3-6-9' and the hour, Minute, And second hands that make a big difference.

Of course, The version of the regular OP upgraded for true exploration was later released as the Submariner (diving) or the Explorer II (spelunking).

Explorer II Ref. 1655 / © Hairspring

Especially in the days when wearing shirts and jackets was the norm, A daily watch needed to be thin and small enough to slip naturally under the cuff. The Explorer met the demands of the era, Capturing the 'charm' of an explorer while being a perfect alternative for everyday wear.

Small differences, Big distinction

The Explorer is a popular model, But in terms of price, It can be a concern for buyers. The retail price is over 1.8 million KRW higher (11.59 million KRW) than the regular OP 36mm (9.8 million KRW) simply because of the additional luminous material.

Especially in the resale market, The absolute difference becomes even greater. Compared to the OP Ref. 126000 (average unworn resale price 11.8 million KRW), The Explorer Ref. 124270 (average unworn resale price 14.3 million KRW) shows a premium difference of about 2.5 million KRW, Which is something buyers must consider.

However, If you think about it, That 'small difference' creates a lot.

A Mini Cooper JCW with rally driving capability versus a regular Mini without it. The Porsche 356 coupe, The origin of the 'dream car, ' versus the Volkswagen Beetle, The 'people's car.' Even a tiny 10% difference in DNA distinguishes humans from chimpanzees. In this way, Seemingly minor differences fundamentally determine the identity and value of an object. In that sense, For those who understand the value of that 'small difference, ' the Explorer is a very attractive watch.

Are you a little different too?

Do you think 'going with the flow' is not the answer to life? Yet you do not want your uniqueness to be known to the whole world?

If so, Congratulations. You are among the select group of collectors like Brad Pitt, Takuya Kimura, And Matt Damon, Who suit the Explorer perfectly.

Explorer Reference Models by Year

Here is a summary of the most significant Explorer references.

"Pre-Explorer" Ref. 6150
(1952 - 1953)

Although there is some debate as to whether this marks the true beginning of the Explorer line, This is the first reference to have the name 'Explorer' on the dial.

The first Explorer Ref. 6350
(1953 - 1955)

The first Explorer recognized by most collectors. The 'Explorer' name was fixed under 'Oyster Perpetual, ' and from the 6350 onward, All watches were chronometer certified (marked 'Officially Certified Chronometer' at the bottom of the dial).

Ref. 6610, Which ended the prototype stage of the Explorer
(1955 - 1959)

The last model in the 6XXX reference series, Which can be broadly called the 'first generation.'

Ref. 1016, Which marked the golden age of the Explorer
(1960 - 1989)

The generation with the longest history (29 years) among all Explorer references and the most beloved by vintage collectors.

Ref. 14270, Which completed the design of the modern Explorer
(1989 - 2001)

A design that is hard to distinguish from the current model without close inspection. An Explorer for 'neo-vintage' collectors seeking a balance between the robustness of modern watches and the sentiment of vintage ones. There are many variations and it is much loved, With Hodinkee even creating a detailed guide on this reference.

The previous generation Explorer Ref. 114270
(2001 - 2010)

The beginning of the modern Explorer, And the era when serial numbers started to be engraved inside the case. Many collectors believe that increasing the case size after the 114270 was a 'mistake' by Rolex.

'Big size' Explorer Ref. 214270
(2010 - 2021)

The Explorer from the era when Rolex started increasing the size of dress watches above 36mm. Released in a 39mm size, Which often causes confusion with the current 40mm. In 2016, It was updated to MK2 with a new movement and hands that better fit the case specifications. See the MK2 update here.

The return of the 36mm, Current Explorer Ref. 124270
(2021 - )

Perhaps feeling the aftereffects of discontinuing the 36mm Explorer, Rolex revived the 36mm Explorer in 2021 and continues to produce it today.

Even the 'big size' was not enough, So the current 'large' Explorer Ref. 224270 (2023 - ) is 1mm larger

It is equipped with a new movement in a case 1mm larger than the 39mm of the 214270 and is still in production.

The most controversial 'two-tone' Ref. 124273
(2021 - )

Why did they do it? Even the Explorer, The only tool watch lineup without a 'two-tone' option, Got a yellow gold two-tone version. However, After the pandemic ended, This Rolex model quickly became a 'mapi' (a used price lower than the retail price).

David Hwang

Watch Analyst

Watch Terminal