One of the most popular materials recently is natural stone. Watches with stone dials made from this material have become much more common than before. The minerals used for stone dials can be described as a record of nature, Created over millions or even billions of years through heat, Pressure and chemical reactions during geological activity. In this sense, the meeting of a watch that embodies the concept of time and minerals born with time makes stone dials even more special.
The Beginning of Stone Dials
Piaget stone dial watches in various colors
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Piaget began as a movement manufacturer and expanded into watchmaking, Jewelry and jewelry watches. The reason it is considered a pioneer of modern stone dials is because it has systematically used ornamental stones since the 1960s. While this is related to jewelry, The concept is slightly different. Ornamental stones are decorative natural stones that utilize their color, Pattern or texture and, Due to these characteristics, Have mainly been used for dials. This is a different approach from jewelry, Which is set to utilize brilliance and sparkle.
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The Value of Stone Dials
The materials for ornamental stone dials (hereafter stone dials) generally include rocks, Minerals or semi-minerals, Natural glass and meteorites. Although there are some differences from geological classifications, There is no major issue if we define this as an industry term commonly used in watchmaking. Regardless of the material, Stone dials share several common characteristics.
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They must be processed extremely thin. Although the standard varies by brand, They are usually cut to a thickness of 0.3 to 0.5mm. If processed thicker, They cannot be fitted into cases designed for regular dials or require a dedicated case design. They are also prone to breakage during processing and the nature and grain of the material varies greatly depending on the stone. Therefore, They cannot be processed using the same method. To highlight the color, Pattern and texture that determine the uniqueness of a stone dial, Careful consideration must be given to which part to cut and at what angle. For this reason, Only certain parts of the raw stone may be usable. Above all, Sourcing is difficult. Some meteorites or rocks are affected by the production volume of the origin or international circumstances. In this way, the rarity of the material and the high level of craftsmanship required combine to complete a stone dial. This is why stone dials are so highly valued.
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch
‘Collage’ Limited Edition
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This year, Piaget introduced a number of stone dial watches. They showcased a wide variety befitting their reputation as the originator of stone dials. Among them, The Andy Warhol watch ‘Collage’ Limited Edition, Created in collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation, Stands out the most. This watch was inspired by the Polaroid collage self-portrait created by the pop art master Andy Warhol in 1986. Instead of reproducing the original, It abstractly interprets the colors and composition in yellow, Pink, Green and black. Four panels made from yellow serpentine, Pink opal, Green chrysoprase and onyx stones are joined together using marquetry. Direct motifs such as the banana or Campbell’s soup can, Which symbolize Warhol, Are omitted and the mood of the work is conveyed through color and material. The technique of precisely cutting and joining natural stones with different textures and colors into a single dial requires a much higher level of craftsmanship than ordinary stone dials. The result demonstrates a level of mastery befitting the original pioneer.
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126715CHNR
Tiger Iron
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If Piaget is the originator of stone dials, Rolex is the brand that popularized them. In the 1970s, Rolex collaborated with dial manufacturer Stern Frères to introduce stone dials and has continued to feature them, Mainly in the Day-Date and Datejust collections. Especially in the Day-Date, Which was the top collection at the time, Various natural stone dials such as blue lapis lazuli, Sodalite, Malachite, Tiger’s eye and turquoise were used. Among the Day-Date Ref. 18038 models, Some with onyx or lapis lazuli dials boldly omitted hour markers to emphasize the beauty of the material itself. In addition, The Daytona ‘Beach’ series featured turquoise and chrysoprase dials in the blue and green models respectively, Highlighting vivid colors. Even recently, Rolex continues to present stone dials and actively utilizes meteorite dials in the GMT-Master II and Daytona. The GMT-Master II Ref. 126715CHNR Tiger Iron uses a composite mineral dial combining tiger’s eye, Red jasper and silver hematite, Creating a very unique atmosphere with golden, Reddish brown and silvery gray hues. Depending on the individual piece, You can even see dramatic patterns reminiscent of Jupiter.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Black Obsidian
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The Santos-Dumont, Which features a 15-link bracelet precisely crafted and connected to move as flexibly as fabric, Also offers another noteworthy watch. The version with a black obsidian dial stands out with a presence quite different from other Santos-Dumont models. The gilded obsidian dial, Made from volcanic glass from Mexico, Displays a subtly changing reflective effect depending on the angle of light. Due to tiny air bubbles trapped inside, A golden glow gently emerges beneath the black surface. Although not a natural stone, natural glass is also included in the category of stone dial materials. Its depth, Gloss and three-dimensional expression, Which are difficult to achieve with a typical lacquer black dial, Are its distinguishing features. Combined with the brilliant shine of the bracelet, It completes a complex and subtle world of light.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
Ref. 15513BA.OO.1320BA.01
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Audemars Piguet is also a brand that has consistently introduced stone dials. In the past, They even went a step further by making movement plates from translucent natural stones such as moss agate. This shows their considerable expertise in working with natural stones. The Royal Oak Ref. 15513BA.OO.1320BA.01 combines a yellow gold case with a malachite dial, Achieving a classic complementary color contrast. Each color enhances the other. The malachite dial evokes the image of a green lake with gentle ripples. The subtle gradation pattern contrasts with the typical cross-section of malachite, Which usually shows clear rings or pronounced grain. Audemars Piguet reversed the typical pattern of malachite to create a restrained and luxurious detail.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo
Tourbillon Marble
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Marble is one of the premium materials in architecture. Inspired by Roman architecture and culture, Bvlgari completed the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble with a marble dial. In the past, Bvlgari also introduced an Only Watch (2023) with a case and bracelet made of marble. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble, Which uses blue marble for the dial, Not only showcases its unique luxurious pattern but also demonstrates the advanced technology required to process it extremely thin to fit into the ultra-thin 5.35mm case.
Felix
Writer
Watch columnist
