One of the most popular materials recently is natural stone. Watches with stone dials made from this material are now seen much more often than before. The minerals used for stone dials can be described as a record of nature created over millions or even billions of years through heat, Pressure and chemical reactions during geological activity. In this sense, the meeting of a watch that embodies the concept of time and minerals that have been formed over time makes stone dials even more special.
The Beginning of Stone Dials
Piaget stone dial watches in various colors
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Piaget started as a movement manufacturer and expanded into watchmaking, Jewelry and jewelry watches. The reason it is considered a pioneer of modern stone dials is because it has systematically used ornamental stones since the 1960s. While this is related to jewelry, The concept is slightly different. Ornamental stones are decorative natural stones that utilize their color, Pattern or texture, And because of these characteristics, They have mainly been used for dials. This is a different approach from jewelry, Which is set to utilize brilliance and sparkle.
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The Value of Stone Dials
The materials for ornamental stone dials (hereafter stone dials) generally include rocks, Minerals or semi-minerals, Natural glass and meteorites. Although there are some discrepancies from a geological classification perspective, There is no major issue if we define this as a conventional term used in the watch industry. Regardless of the material, Stone dials share several common characteristics.
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They must be processed to be extremely thin. Although the standard varies by brand, They are usually cut to a thickness of 0.3 to 0.5mm. If processed too thick, It may not fit into a case designed for a standard dial or a dedicated case must be designed. They are also prone to breaking during processing, And the character and grain of the material vary widely. Therefore, They cannot be processed using the same method. To highlight the color, Pattern and texture that determine the uniqueness of a stone dial, Careful consideration must be given to which part to cut and at what angle. For this reason, Only certain parts of the raw stone may be usable. Above all, Sourcing is difficult. Some meteorites or rocks are affected by the production volume at the source or by international circumstances. In this way, Stone dials are completed by combining the rarity of the material with the high level of difficulty in production. This is why stone dials are highly valued.
Piaget Andy Warhol Watch
‘Collage’ Limited Edition
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This year, Piaget has introduced many stone dial watches. They have shown a wide variety befitting their reputation as the original house of stone dials. The Andy Warhol watch ‘Collage’ Limited Edition, Created in collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation, Is the most outstanding new release among them. This watch was inspired by Andy Warhol’s Polaroid collage self-portrait created in 1986. Instead of reproducing the original, The colors and composition of yellow, Pink, Green and black were interpreted abstractly. Four panels made of yellow serpentine, Pink opal, Green chrysoprase and onyx were assembled using the marquetry technique. Direct motifs such as the banana or Campbell’s soup can, Which symbolize Warhol, Were excluded, And the atmosphere of the work is conveyed through color and material. The technique of precisely cutting natural stones with different textures and colors and joining them into a single dial requires a much higher level of craftsmanship than a typical stone dial. The result demonstrates a level of mastery and completeness befitting the original house.
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126715CHNR
Tiger Iron
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If Piaget is the originator of stone dials, Rolex is the brand that popularized them. In the 1970s, Rolex introduced stone dials in collaboration with Stern Frères, A dial manufacturer, And has continued to present them mainly in the Day-Date and Datejust collections. Especially in the Day-Date, Which was the top collection at the time, A variety of natural stone dials such as blue lapis lazuli, Sodalite, Malachite, Tiger’s eye and turquoise were used. Among the Day-Date Ref. 18038 models, There are versions with onyx or lapis lazuli dials that boldly omit hour indexes to emphasize the beauty of the material itself. In addition, The Daytona ‘Beach’ series featured turquoise and chrysoprase dials in the blue and green models respectively, Highlighting vivid colors. Even recently, Rolex has continued to introduce stone dials, And has actively used meteorite dials in the GMT-Master II and Daytona. The GMT-Master II Ref. 126715CHNR Tiger Iron uses a composite mineral dial combining tiger’s eye, Red jasper and silver hematite, Creating a unique atmosphere with golden, Reddish-brown and silvery-gray hues. Depending on the individual piece, You can see striking patterns reminiscent of Jupiter.
Cartier Santos-Dumont
Black Obsidian
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The Santos-Dumont, Which features a 15-link bracelet precisely crafted and connected to move flexibly like fabric, Also has another noteworthy model. The version with a black obsidian dial stands out distinctly from other Santos-Dumont models. The gilded obsidian dial, Made from Mexican volcanic glass, Displays subtle reflective effects that change depending on the angle of light. Due to tiny air bubbles trapped inside, A golden shimmer appears beneath the black surface. Although not a natural stone, Natural glass is also included in the category of stone dial materials. It is characterized by a depth, Gloss and three-dimensional expression that are difficult to achieve with a typical lacquer black dial. Combined with the brilliant shine of the bracelet, It completes a complex and subtle world of light.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding
Ref. 15513BA.OO.1320BA.01
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Audemars Piguet is also a brand that has consistently introduced stone dials. In the past, They even went a step further by making movement plates from translucent natural stones such as moss agate. This shows that they have considerable expertise in handling natural stones. The Royal Oak Ref. 15513BA.OO.1320BA.01 combines a yellow gold case with a malachite dial, Creating a classic complementary color contrast. Each color enhances the other. The malachite dial evokes a tranquil green lake with gentle waves. The subtle gradation pattern contrasts with the typical cross-section of malachite, Which usually shows distinct rings or grains. Audemars Piguet has reversed the typical pattern of malachite to create a restrained and luxurious detail.
Bvlgari Octo Finissimo
Tourbillon Marble
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Marble is one of the premium materials for architecture. Inspired by Roman architecture and culture, Bvlgari created the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble with a marble dial. In the past, Bvlgari also presented an Only Watch (2023) with a case and bracelet made of marble. The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Marble, Which uses blue marble for the dial, Not only showcases its unique luxurious pattern, But also demonstrates the advanced technology required to process it extremely thin to fit into an ultra-thin case with a thickness of 5.35mm.
Felix
Writer
Watch Columnist
