The Oldest Watch Brand
Vacheron Constantin

Since its founding in 1755 Vacheron Constantin has been an iconic watchmaker that has continued watch production without interruption for the longest period. Along with Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet which together make up the Big Three of high-end watches it is a company that began even before the founding of the United States. While its rich heritage may give the impression of being conservative Vacheron Constantin holds as its core philosophy the ‘open perspective toward the world’ inherited from its founder.

What kind of results can be achieved when centuries of accumulated watchmaking expertise meet an open mind? The answer is the Overseas collection from Vacheron Constantin which has continuously presented new interpretations of luxury sports watches.

Overseas at a Glance

The Overseas is currently Vacheron Constantin’s only sports watch collection. Because it features an integrated bracelet there is sometimes a misconception that it is a ‘Genta design’ but it is actually inspired by the ‘222’ released in 1977 to commemorate the brand’s 222nd anniversary. Unlike the industrial style of the Patek Philippe Nautilus or Audemars Piguet Royal Oak the Overseas adopts a classic round dial which further emphasizes its elegance.

Vacheron Constantin 222 released in the 1970s / ⓒ Acollectedman

Overseas available with three bracelets / ⓒ Thewatchlounge

Among the Big Three luxury sports watches the case design of the Overseas is traditional but in terms of functionality it is the most modern. The current Overseas lineup boasts 150m water resistance surpassing the Royal Oak and Nautilus and features an easy fit system that allows the bracelet to be changed effortlessly. Overseas is almost the only top-tier watch that comes with two additional straps at purchase. With both leather and rubber straps included you can freely switch between sport and dress styles.

Overseas 4500V/110A-B126

41mm, Silver

Overseas 4500V/110A-B128

41mm, Blue

Overseas 4500V/110R-B705

41mm, Blue

Design Featuring the Maltese Cross

The way the Overseas asserts its identity as Vacheron Constantin’s representative lineup lies in the brand’s logo. 

Vacheron logo, Knights of Malta / ⓒ Vacheron constantin, Ⓒ History-maps

The Maltese Cross has been used as Vacheron Constantin’s logo since 1887 because its shape resembles a component that improves accuracy in the movement. While it looks similar to the Maltese Cross used by the Knights of Malta during the Crusades it is said to have no religious meaning.

Bezel and bracelet featuring the Vacheron logo / ⓒ Vacheron constantin

The Maltese Cross has given the Overseas a unique style in its design language. The brand logo is incorporated throughout the timepiece. First is the three-dimensional bezel. The six notches decorating the bezel transform the V of the Maltese Cross into a trapezoidal shape that naturally surrounds the round dial. Second is the bracelet. It is impressive that the links forming the sleek bracelet are also inspired by the Maltese Cross.

ⓒ Vacheron constantin

The bar indexes at 6 9 and 12 o’clock on the dial are elongated trapezoids reminiscent of one side of the Maltese Cross and the logo itself is engraved on the clasp and crown. Vacheron Constantin’s expertise in naturally blending each delicate detail into the watch is what completes the Overseas.

Overseas Dual Time 7900V/110A-B333

41mm, Silver

Overseas Dual Time 7900V/110A-B334

41mm, Blue

Overseas Dual Time 7900V/110A-B546

41mm, Black

The Evolving Sports Watch Overseas

The Overseas which captures both practicality and symbolism has another feature. In the watch market where heritage is important it is a growing watch that has experimented with its appearance without limitations. True to its adventurous spirit the Overseas has shown bold design changes with each generation.

Vacheron Constantin 222 VS Overseas 1st generation model /
ⓒ Analogshift, Ⓒ Acollectedman

The Overseas collection has undergone significant evolution over three generations since 1996. The first generation model which inherited the design of the ‘222’ released in 1977 featured a bezel with eight sides and did not have the Maltese Cross motif on the bracelet. From the second generation lineup the signature bracelet was introduced and various styling attempts were made on the dial.  

From left, 2nd and 3rd generation Overseas /
ⓒ Monochrome-watches, Ⓒ Wristaficionado

The third generation lineup considered the most complete was released in 2016. The number of bezel sides was reduced to six and the word AUTOMATIC at 6 o’clock was removed simplifying the design and maximizing luxury. The movement was made 100% in-house which is highly valued by watch enthusiasts.

The Popularity of Overseas

The stainless steel Overseas is Vacheron Constantin’s most popular product. Due to the explosive popularity of stainless steel sports watches there is now at least a two-year wait to purchase even the basic date model at retail and unlike other models reservations are not possible. However the premium over retail price in the resale market is not very high making it more accessible. 

It is extremely difficult to maintain a unique identity while improving convenience and functionality but the Overseas has achieved all of this. Continuously presenting new looks to match rapidly changing consumer tastes the sporty Overseas is expected to remain beloved by watch enthusiasts for years to come.

Overseas Chronograph 5500V/110A-B148

42.5mm, Blue

Overseas Chronograph 5500V/110A-B481

42.5mm, Black

Overseas Chronograph 5500V/110A-B686

42.5mm, Silver