When we refer to a school as 'prestigious' what criteria do we use to make that judgment? It is likely because the institution has produced outstanding talent and possesses the know-how to nurture such individuals. In other words, The 'vintage' alumni who graduated in the past are the very proof of the school's brand value.

In the same context, Timepieces recognized as vintage watches are those that have shaped the value and identity of certain brands and have even been influential enough to create entirely new segments.

Watches That Created New Segments

The First Datejust Ref. 4467 / © Rolex, Monochrome

Among the models with the highest trading volume in the vintage market the Rolex Datejust was born in 1945 as a so-called 'daily luxury' watch, Featuring an automatic movement with a date function in a waterproof case, Completed with a fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet. Since then, It has been recognized as a watch that inspired not only other Rolex lines such as the Day-Date, Sky-Dweller, And Sea-Dweller but also many other brands.

Table 1. Vintage Rolex Datejust Auction Price Fluctuations

The First Calatrava Ref. 96 © Monochrome

Patek Philippe's Calatrava can be called the epitome of a dress watch that defines understated luxury. The Reference 96, Released in 1932, Not only provided the foundation for many of Patek Philippe's dress watches but also influenced other brands such as Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre, And Piaget to present similar designs.

Table 2. Vintage Patek Philippe Calatrava Auction Price Fluctuations

Watches With Stories of 'Those Were the Days!'

Speedmaster Ref. 2915 / © Analog:Shift

Omega's Speedmaster is perhaps the best icon to show the value of a story.
From the first moon landing to the episode where astronauts on Apollo 13 safely returned after a malfunction — these historic moments have made the Speedmaster a beloved watch for 68 years since its launch in 1957.

Table 3.
Vintage Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Auction Price Fluctuations

The 'Domino's Pizza' Air-King from Rolex carries a story in a different way.
This special watch was given to Domino's Pizza store managers who achieved over $20, 000 in sales in a week. The Air-King with the Domino's logo at 6 o'clock has become a unique symbol and is highly popular among vintage collectors today.

Table 4. Vintage Rolex Air-King 'Domino' Auction Price Fluctuations

Watches That Broke the Rules of Watch Design

Royal Oak Ref. 5420 / © Audemars Piguet

The Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet is considered an icon of design innovation in watch history.
With its bold design that connects the watch head and bracelet as one, It created a new genre called 'luxury sports watch.' Its influence continues even after half a century, And the Royal Oak has become the archetype for countless luxury sports watches that followed.

Table 5. Vintage Royal Oak Auction Price Fluctuations

The Cartier Crash broke the rules in a different way.
In 1967, Actor Stewart Granger requested a 'one-of-a-kind watch, ' leading to the creation of the Crash at Cartier's London boutique. The intentionally distorted case, Neither square, Round, Nor oval, Is still striking today. There is even a story that Granger returned the watch after just one week, Saying it was 'too much, ' making the legendary beginning of this watch even more memorable.

Table 6. Vintage Cartier Crash Auction Price Fluctuations

Watches That Completed Brand Identity

The Breitling Navitimer is not the first pilot's watch, Not the first chronograph, Nor the first Breitling wristwatch.
Nevertheless, Today the Navitimer stands as the symbol and identity of Breitling. The bold idea of incorporating numerous instruments needed by commercial pilots into a single watch, Though somewhat complex, Was enough to leave a unique impression exclusive to Breitling.

Table 7. Vintage Breitling Navitimer Auction Price Fluctuations

The Cartier Tank is undoubtedly the representative timepiece of Cartier.
Although the Tank appeared in 1917, Later than the Santos (1904), It has expanded into many versions and adorned the wrists of celebrities for decades. While not as radical as the Crash or the most expensive model, Its timeless elegance and aesthetic balance have made it an iconic symbol of Cartier.

Closing

007 Goldfinger<br/>© Eon Productions, United Artists, 1964

Of course, There are many other watches that have proven their 'value' in their own ways.

The Rolex Submariner worn by Sean Connery as James Bond in a tuxedo.
The Breguet Tourbillon Ref. 3350 by Daniel Roth, Which revived the reputation of Breguet, The inventor of the tourbillon.
And the Cartier Santos, Which marked the beginning of the modern wristwatch by moving the watch from the pocket to the wrist.

Breguet Tourbillon Ref. 3350 / © A Collected Man

What is certain is that as these criteria are met and their significance deepens, The value of a watch transcends the flow of time and trends to become a 'timeless' entity — a truly valuable vintage watch.

No matter how hard you study and get into Harvard, You cannot meet President Kennedy, Who graduated in 1940. However, Through a vintage watch you discover after a joyful search, You can carry the philosophy of the watchmaker and the values of the era on your wrist and pass them on to the next generation.

That, I believe, Is the most beautiful reason to love vintage watches.

David Hwang

Watch Analyst

Watch Terminal