Vacheron Constantin
Why Vacheron Constantin
Brand Focus

One day, A new restaurant was selected for the Michelin Guide. Within a few weeks, Every food influencer had visited and people started lining up. Reservations became increasingly difficult and when you call to ask, "Is there a table available today?" you are treated as if you are asking an absurd question, Just like when you ask at a Rolex boutique, "I want to buy a watch, Is it available?"
Personally, I do not usually visit these so-called "hot spots." Even if I do, I go after the hype has died down. There is an old saying that there is nothing to eat at a well-publicized feast. Of course, Not everything that is famous is without substance. However, If you think about it, Isn't it more remarkable that a place can maintain steady popularity and boast a long history even without much publicity?

The most expensive Vacheron Constantin watch ever </br> Patrimony Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 30020 </br> ⓒ European Watch Company

The most expensive Vacheron Constantin watch ever
Patrimony Perpetual Calendar, Ref. 30020
ⓒ European Watch Company

That was a long introduction. Today's topic is Vacheron Constantin (hereafter "Vacheron"), Which quietly continues the longest history in watchmaking. For those who know watches, For those who have experienced Haute Horlogerie, It is a brand that you may not love but must respect.

The History of Vacheron Constantin

Watches from Vacheron's Métiers d'Art collection, Placing works of art on the wrist </br> ⓒ Richemont

Watches from Vacheron's Métiers d'Art collection, Placing works of art on the wrist
ⓒ Richemont

Major Brand Longevity and Year of Establishment

Vacheron is the watchmaker that has continued its business for the longest period without interruption.

Vacheron is the watchmaker that has continued its business for the longest period without interruption.

What is interesting is that despite this long history, Vacheron's brand awareness is significantly lower than Rolex or Cartier. Of course, This could be due to the high price range and limited production numbers, But even compared to Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe, Vacheron's recognition is lower.

Major Brand Wholesale Revenue

ⓒ Morgan Stanley, LuxeConsult

ⓒ Morgan Stanley, LuxeConsult

Major Brand Annual Production Volume

ⓒ Morgan Stanley, LuxeConsult

ⓒ Morgan Stanley, LuxeConsult

Why is Vacheron not "hot"? Is it intentional? Vacheron does not collaborate with famous artists or run advertisements selecting celebrities as brand ambassadors.

Rolex's advertisement highlighting 'the symbol of success' by selecting celebrities such as Roger Federer as brand ambassadors ⓒ Rolex Magazine

Rolex's advertisement highlighting 'the symbol of success' by selecting celebrities such as Roger Federer as brand ambassadors ⓒ Rolex Magazine

The background for Vacheron Constantin's early fame is similar to that of Patek Philippe or Audemars Piguet. With its technical prowess in fitting high-difficulty complications (such as perpetual calendars and minute repeaters) into small metal cases, It earned the respect and love of aristocrats and tycoons in the railroad and newspaper industries.

Early Vacheron pocket watch movement and dial with complications </br>ⓒ Horobox

Early Vacheron pocket watch movement and dial with complications
ⓒ Horobox

However, After the quartz crisis, Having complex functions alone was no longer enough to differentiate. Only by providing greater value could one become a true Haute Horlogerie maker and join the Holy Trinity (with Patek and Audemars).

So where does that value lie? Vacheron focuses on creating watches that collectors consistently love; refined, Rare, And containing value that does not waver with trends or the passage of time.

Vacheron Constantin's Distinctiveness

Creating watches with precision craftsmanship for ultimate refinement </br>ⓒ Vacheron Constantin

Creating watches with precision craftsmanship for ultimate refinement
ⓒ Vacheron Constantin

First, There is Le Cabinotiers, A made-to-order program for one-of-a-kind watches that exist nowhere else in the world. Of course, All high watchmaking brands offer unique piece production, But no other watchmaker presents such extreme differentiation as an official program like Vacheron's Le Cabinotiers.

Vacheron Constantin Le Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages minute repeater tourbillon tribute to arabesque 
ⓒ Monochrome

Vacheron Constantin Le Cabinotiers Récits de Voyages minute repeater tourbillon tribute to arabesque ⓒ Monochrome

Second, There is Les Collectionneurs, A program that restores and resells vintage Vacheron watches. In terms of simple service, It is similar to Rolex's (and recently Vacheron's) Certified Pre-Owned watches. However, Les Collectionneurs started as early as 2008, A full 14 years before Rolex's CPO, And covers even extremely old pieces that make you wonder, "Did such a watch ever exist?"

Ref. 4261, With fewer than 40 pieces produced between 1944 and 1951, Was re-released through the Les Collectionneurs restoration program ⓒ SJX Watches

Ref. 4261, With fewer than 40 pieces produced between 1944 and 1951, Was re-released through the Les Collectionneurs restoration program ⓒ SJX Watches

ⓒ Vacheron Constantin

ⓒ Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron believes that the restoration process must be as faithful to the original production methods as the result itself, So they restore and reuse the machines that were used when the watch was first produced.

(Left) The first 222 introduced in 1977, (Right) The steel 222 reissued as a re-edition this year </br> ⓒ WatchTime, Hondinkee

(Left) The first 222 introduced in 1977, (Right) The steel 222 reissued as a re-edition this year
ⓒ WatchTime, Hondinkee

There is also a lineup called Historique. Unlike the regular lineup, Historique products are faithful re-editions of Vacheron's past hit models. Recently, The 222 and American 1921, Re-released to commemorate the 270th anniversary, Are part of this lineup.

(Left) American 1921 first introduced in 1919, </br>(Right) Current Historique American 1921 </br>ⓒ Twain Time, Monochrome

(Left) American 1921 first introduced in 1919,
(Right) Current Historique American 1921
ⓒ Twain Time, Monochrome

In addition, There are programs such as Métiers d’Art that add works of art to watches. While similar services exist at other brands, Vacheron has even introduced designs inspired by works exhibited at the Louvre through an official partnership with the museum.

Vacheron's Métiers d’Art pieces that need no further explanation </br>
ⓒ Monochrome

Vacheron's Métiers d’Art pieces that need no further explanation
ⓒ Monochrome

These distinctions of Vacheron may not suit everyone's taste. I believe there are not many people who even know that such services exist.

Comparison of Representative Models of the Holy Trinity Brands

ⓒ WatchCharts

ⓒ WatchCharts

However, I believe that no one can say that these distinctions make Vacheron any less remarkable. The finishing of Vacheron's watchmaking, To which the brand is almost obsessively devoted, Is also a major attraction.
Thanks to these aspects, I believe Vacheron has been loved by watch enthusiasts for 270 years, Even though it is passive in flashy branding campaigns and produces products that do not trade actively.

A pocket watch with 63 complications </br> ⓒ Hodinkee

A pocket watch with 63 complications
ⓒ Hodinkee

Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time 86060/000R-9640

Patrimony Traditionnelle World Time 86060/000R-9640

42.5mm, Silver/sapphire and double metal dial

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Overseas Dual Time 47450/B01A-9226

Overseas Dual Time 47450/B01A-9226

42mm, Silver

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Patrimony 81180/000R-9159

Patrimony 81180/000R-9159

40mm, Silver

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222 4200H/222J-B935

222 4200H/222J-B935

37mm, Gold

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David Hwang

Watch Analyst

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