There are various materials for watch cases. However, The metals that account for a high proportion as case materials are easy to identify. Precious metals such as platinum or gold, Which have a brilliant luster and stimulate human desire, Are essential for making the finest watches. Titanium, Which is strong yet light and does not irritate the skin, Is also indispensable. Stainless steel, Which is highly resistant to corrosion, Rarely changes on the surface, And provides a good shine, Is also an essential material for watch cases.

Son of Zeus

Tantalus Gioacchino Assereto circa 1640s

In 1802, A Swedish chemist named Anders Gustaf Ekeberg discovered a certain metal. With the symbol Ta and atomic number 73, It was named after Tantalos from Greek mythology due to its exceptional resistance to acids. Tantalos, The son of Zeus, Was punished with eternal hunger and thirst for stealing the food of the gods and revealing their secrets to humans. He suffered the torment of having water and fruit right in front of him but never being able to reach them. Ekeberg observed that the metal did not react at all even when immersed in strong acid and said, "The way it resists even the strongest acids is like Tantalos, Who can never be satisfied." That is why this metal was named 'Tantalum.'

© https://briandcolwell.com/a-history-of-tantalum

This metal, Which has a strong impression even from its name, Occasionally appears as a material for watch cases. It does not have the universally good properties of stainless steel and in fact, It may be more accurate to say that it has more unsuitable characteristics for watch cases.

Heavy

Tantalum is about twice as heavy as stainless steel and about 3.75 times heavier than titanium, Which is considered a lightweight material. It is about 6% heavier than gold, So for the volume of a watch case, There is little difference from gold. Platinum, Which is recognized as the top material in watches, Is even heavier than tantalum by about 20% or more.

Case Material Weight Ranking © VIVER

Preferences may differ, But since watches are worn on the wrist, The lighter they are, The more comfortable they feel. Tantalum makes a watch heavy because its weight is similar to gold. However, Unlike gold or platinum, It is not a precious metal and is relatively inexpensive (about 1/360 the price of gold by weight). This raises the question of whether one should really wear a tantalum watch despite its weight.

Dark Blue-Gray

Matching metals of different colors, Such as the classic two-tone case of stainless steel and gold, Is done to achieve a contrast effect. The material of a watch case not only serves to protect the movement but also expresses individuality through color and texture. Tantalum, With its dark blue-gray color, Is even more distinctive than titanium, Which is already known for its unique color. It has a raw metallic texture and, While it may look like titanium at first glance, It reveals a deeper and colder tone. When polished, It gives off a cold metallic luster and conveys a chic sensibility rarely seen in other metals.

© https://im-mining.com

Hard

Tantalum has a Mohs hardness of 6.5, Which is higher than stainless steel and titanium. In terms of Vickers hardness, It is slightly lower than titanium, So titanium is a bit better at resisting pressure. However, As its name suggests, Tantalum has strong acid resistance and a melting point of nearly 3, 000 degrees. This causes excessive heat during processing. The heat is transferred to the tools, Causing them to wear out rapidly, And due to its high ductility, The metal stretches like clay, Making it difficult to cut thinly. It is said that processing tantalum is more than three times as difficult as platinum, Which is already known to be hard to work with. From the perspective of watch manufacturers, It is understandable why tantalum is called the devil’s metal.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Tantalum

Ref. 25829TP
© https://www.phillips.com

The first tantalum watch is known to be the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. According to records from auction houses such as Phillips, It began as a special order for King Juan Carlos I of Spain. A matte dark-toned case was needed to prevent the reflection of light from startling game during hunting. At first, The king’s gunsmith tried the bluing technique used on gun barrels but failed, And in the end, Audemars Piguet solved the problem with tantalum’s unique subdued luster.

Ref.56175TT
© https://www.bulangandsons.net

Reference numbers for watches using tantalum had TT (tantalum + steel) or TR (tantalum + rose gold) after the numbers. (Rarely, There is also TP for tantalum and platinum combinations.) These days, TT and TR codes are rarely seen because tantalum watches are no longer produced. Models using tantalum had a unique color and weight. They had a heft comparable to gold cases. Several versions of the Royal Oak were made with tantalum, And among them, The two-tone models with rose gold made the color of tantalum stand out even more. The surface of the dark, Cold blue-gray tantalum was finished with a matte hairline, And a clear contrast was achieved with gold bezels and bracelet links. Although various materials such as ceramic and carbon are now used to create dark colors, Tantalum, Which reveals the texture and coldness of metal, Certainly has a different charm. As a result, Vintage tantalum watches are being auctioned at quite high prices.

Ref. 14790TR
© https://www.phillips.com

Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph

Ref. 2296.80 The Beast
© https://www.fratellowatches.com

Although there are only a few references, Omega is a company that has consistently produced tantalum watches. In 1992, Omega introduced the Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph (Ref. 2296.80) using tantalum for the first time. Nicknamed 'The Beast, ' it was released with a robust and luxurious appearance made of rose gold, Titanium, And tantalum, And was priced accordingly. Tantalum was used as one of the materials for the bracelet links, So its use was relatively limited, But the production difficulty was considerable. After being produced for about two to three years, It was discontinued, Mainly due to its high price and lack of popularity.

Ref. 2296.80 Tantalum Bracelet Link
© https://www.fratellowatches.com

Later, At Baselworld 2018, Omega reintroduced 'The Beast' as a date version to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Seamaster Diver 300M. Although everything changed with the new generation, The unique material composition and distribution remained the same as The Beast. In 2020, A chronograph version that fully inherited The Beast’s lineage was released. It was equipped with the in-house chronograph caliber 9900, And the rose gold was replaced with Omega’s proprietary Sedna Gold, Further highlighting the appeal of the tri-metal and tantalum.

The new Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Chronograph
Titanium, Tantalum and Gold
(Ref. 210.60.44.51.03.001)
© https://monochrome-watches.com

Other Brands

In addition, Tantalum watches have been attempted by several watch companies. Among them, The high-end brand François-Paul Journe (P.Journe) has produced many models with tantalum cases. These are usually finished with a polished surface, Allowing for a deep and dark luster not seen in the tantalum watches of Audemars Piguet or Omega. Although it is difficult to process, Once completed, Tantalum is a metal with a devilish charm that cannot be found in any other metal.

P.Journe Tourbillon Souverain Bleu Caliber 1403
© https://www.watchonista.com