The Prototype of the Submariner ‘No Date’ Title

If you had to choose the most important watch icon of the 20th century which model would it be? After many reinterpretations the Rolex Submariner which now celebrates its 70th anniversary would certainly be a top pick. Currently there are a total of eight Submariner models on the official Rolex website and among them there is only one model that simply carries the title ‘Submariner’. That is the Submariner Ref. 124060.

From the left Submariner 126610LN, 124060 / ©Revolution

For convenience we use the term ‘No Date’ to distinguish models without a Cyclops lens (date window) but in fact there is no separate ‘No Date’ model on the official website. The Submariner as we know it is the No Date model and the Submariner Date model is listed separately. However for convenience we will use the term ‘No Date’ today.

Submariner 124060

41mm, Black, Oyster

Submariner Date 126610LN

41mm, Black, Oyster

The Perfect Example of a Reissue Diver’s Watch

The Rolex Submariner No Date Ref. 124060 is a timeless model that continues to uphold Rolex’s outstanding heritage. The very first Submariner also had no date window, A unidirectional black bezel, And triangular markers at 3, 6, And 9 o’clock. Its appearance has remained almost unchanged to this day. The current Ref. 124060 sold in stores continues the heritage of the original 1953 Submariner with only technical upgrades and visual refinements.

The first Submariner to use the name on the dial Ref. 6204
ⓒ Bob’s Watches

The Many Variations of the Submariner

The Submariner also holds the title of the most searched watch on Google. The reason why diver’s watches are steady sellers worldwide can be found in the popularity brought by the Submariner’s timeless design.

The Rolex Submariner which influenced the design of other brands.
Clockwise from the top left Rolex Submariner, Grand Seiko Diver,
Oris Divers, Mido Ocean Star, Tudor Black Bay 58, Tissot Seastar

It is often said that the Submariner is the most copied watch design in history and its influence on other diver’s watches is remarkable.

Submariner 124060 Basic Specifications

Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060 ⓒ Hodinkee

When discussing Rolex watches durability and accuracy achieved through in-house technology cannot be overlooked. The Submariner Ref. 124060 was released alongside the Submariner Date series in 2020 and the case size increased slightly from 40mm to 41mm. This Oyster case is made of 904L stainless steel used in aircraft and is fitted with a Cerachrom bezel. The movement at the heart of the watch is the Cal. 3230 which is an upgrade of Rolex’s famous Cal. 3130 movement. As befits a diver’s watch the clasp features a Glidelock system allowing fine adjustment of the bracelet by 15 to 20mm.

What is the Premium of the Submariner No Date?

The Submariner No Date is a professional watch that serves as a collectible for Rolex enthusiasts and as a first step for beginners. It sells out as soon as it hits retail and remains a steady seller with strong price retention in the resale market.
Currently the resale market premium for the No Date is over 34% compared to the retail price (KRW 11, 690, 000 as of June 2023 in Korea).

Rolex Submariner No Date Ref. 124060 Unworn Average Price

In 2022 the luxury watch resale market was hit and the price of the No Date continued to decline but the current price is similar to that of June last year. After hitting a low point in February 2023 prices have been steadily rising and are still climbing slowly.

The Value of the Original Even in the Secondary Market

The Submariner No Date Ref. 124060 is the most affordable watch with a ceramic bezel in the entire Rolex catalog. Thanks to this it maintains excellent accessibility even with a premium attached 
It also ranks high among the most traded watches on VIVER.

Rolex Submariner No Date Ref. 124060 Pre-owned Average Price

Currently the pre-owned price of the No Date carries a premium of 15 to 16% over retail making it an accessible option for secondhand transactions. More importantly it is a watch that boasts unchanging appeal as the most authentic continuation of the Rolex Submariner’s heritage. 

Now that it has been three years since its release the supply of pre-owned pieces is increasing so it can be a great opportunity for those looking to purchase their first professional Rolex. It is rare to find a Rolex professional watch with recognition heritage and symbolism that can be purchased without a heavy price burden. Even as a daily wear piece the No Date retains significant value as a pre-owned timepiece as long as it is properly maintained.