The Festival for Watch Enthusiasts

The 2023 Rolex catalog saw many changes. We said goodbye to discontinued lines and welcomed new models while updating our dream watches. Through Watches and Wonders returning in April 2024 Rolex is once again preparing to move the hearts of watch lovers. As always VIVER is making fun predictions about which models might disappear and which new releases will captivate us through this year’s Rolex forecast.

Discontinuation of ‘Pepsi’ and the Return of ‘Coke’

There is now credible evidence supporting the rumor of the discontinuation of the GMT-Master 2 126710BLRO ‘Pepsi’ which VIVER previously introduced. It is said that due to the high failure rate in producing the red ceramic bezel during the manufacturing process Rolex is preparing to discontinue the model. Rolex has not made any official statement as usual but the volume of Pepsi transactions in the resale market has noticeably decreased.

Image excerpted from patent © Rolex SA

Recently leaked patent applications and announcements related to ceramic materials from Rolex have added weight to this claim. According to European Patent Office registration number EP4311820
[Title: Fabrication of a Multicolored Ceramic Component (FABRICATION D'UN COMPOSANT EN CÉRAMIQUE MULTICOLORE)] Rolex has proposed a solution for producing superior ceramic materials. There is a strong focus on dual-color implementation and the black & red combination is mentioned a total of four times. While the publication of the patent does not guarantee a 2024 release it seems highly likely that the ‘Coke’ will make a comeback.
Produced from the late 1980s until 2007 the ‘Coke’ is now a highly sought-after collector’s item with strong demand and transaction volume in the resale market. The black & red bezel can currently be found on references 16760 and 16710.

GMT-Master 2 ‘Coke’ prediction © everestbands

Watch enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting the return of the ‘Coke’ every year but some are also open to the possibility of a more chic steel + black & gray bezel combination. The black & gray bezel was released through the GMT-Master 2 ref. 126713GRNR at the 2023 Watches and Wonders. While it may not match the demand for the Coke the steel version of the GRNR bezel also has great potential to become the most popular model in the GMT-Master 2 line.

GMT Master 2 Ref. 126710GRNR prediction © chronext

GMT-Master 2 126710BLRO

40mm, Black, Jubilee

GMT-Master 2 126713GRNR

40mm, Black, Jubilee

GMT-Master 2 16710

40mm, Black, Oyster

Explorer 1 ‘Polar’ Dial

Explorer with white dial prediction © monochrome

The European watch magazine Monochrome predicts a white dial Explorer 1. Since its release in 1953 the Explorer 1 has maintained its true heritage line with Roman numeral indexes at 3 6 and 9 o’clock. Starting with Ref. 14270 released in the late 1980s the Explorer 1 took on the form we know today and has remained a steady seller for over 30 years with little change. While its clear identity is well established some enthusiasts hope for more variations.

How will the combination of Explorer 1 and a white dial be received? Looking back at Rolex’s archives there was a model with an ‘Albino’ dial ref. 6610 produced in very limited quantities.

‘Albino’ Explorer 1 ref. 6610 © chritie

References 114200 and 177200 from the Oyster Perpetual collection have also adopted the Explorer 1 dial layout in silver/white versions (Ref. 114200 is sometimes an Air-King). The white dial Explorer 1 is expected to appeal to a specific group of consumers who want a watch with a bit more character than the traditional Explorer 1 but more restrained than other professional lines.

Past Air-King adopting Explorer 1 style dial
© Rolexmagazine

Additionally the first Rolesor model of the Explorer 1 ref. 124273 was released in 2021 but the response was not enthusiastic. Due to relatively low demand and performance of the ‘two-tone’ Explorer it seems unlikely that a Rolesor model will appear for the 40mm Explorer 1. If there are to be variations diversifying the dial color seems more appropriate.

Explorer 1 124270

36mm, Black, Oyster

Explorer 1 214270

39mm, Black, Oyster

Will the Milgauss Return Soon?

New Milgauss prediction © Monochrome, © Everestbands

It has already been a year since the ‘scientist’s watch’ Milgauss was discontinued. While it may seem too soon for the Milgauss line to return we have found some hints this time as well. According to a recently registered Rolex patent there is a possibility of a watch specialized in anti-magnetism. There is anticipation as to whether the Milgauss which was a niche model will return with even more advanced technology.

The discontinuation of the Milgauss which had a maniacal following was probably anticipated by fans. As the sports watch boom grew the Milgauss was often said to have an ambiguous position among Rolex’s professional models. Unlike the Explorer 1 which has maintained steady popularity despite lacking both a rotating bezel and crown guards the Milgauss was considered to have a less distinct identity. Just as the Air-King ref. 126900 did if the Milgauss line is reborn it is likely to be equipped with crown guards to match the current catalog while maintaining excellent anti-magnetic properties.

Milgauss 116400GV

40mm, Z-Blue, Oyster

Milgauss 116400GV

40mm, Intense Black, Oyster

A Milgauss reissue in Turn-O-Graph style is also one of the models that enthusiasts predict every year. However the possibility is considered low because equipping a rotating bezel like the Turn-O-Graph would make its image overlap with main models like the Submariner and GMT-Master 2. Still before the Milgauss was actually discontinued Rolex’s official website showed videos featuring one of the early models ref. 6541 several times. Perhaps we can look forward to something.

Milgauss ref. 6541 © Rolex

Dress Watch 1908

The 1908 line regarded as the successor to the Cellini is currently the only traditional dress watch collection in the Rolex catalog equipped with a leather strap. The last Cellini model which featured a moonphase complication disappeared into history without further innovation but now the possibilities for change in the 1908 line that will carry on the legacy of Rolex dress watches are endless. In the watch market Rolex has virtually no competitors and does not need to show off its technical superiority. However there are enthusiasts who hope for the introduction of complications to avoid repeating Cellini’s failure. The faster complications that elevate the dignity of dress watches are introduced the longer the 1908 line is likely to last. Will gradually diversifying complications starting with the moonphase function attract more enthusiasts?

1908 with moonphase prediction © Monochrome

Bonus - Vacheron Constantin 222

Steel version of the 222 © Fratello

The origin of Vacheron Constantin’s integrated bracelet sports watch style lies in the ‘222’ line. The 222 which was ambitiously revived in the Historiques collection received praise from the media and community as soon as it was released and quickly became a hot must-have timepiece among celebrities and the wealthy.

Currently the 222 exists only in yellow gold. For most watch enthusiasts it is too flashy and very expensive. What if a steel or white gold version were released to make the 222 more accessible? Some say that as the 222 becomes more accessible it could impact sales of Vacheron Constantin’s main collection the recently updated Overseas. However the 222 has such a long waiting list that it is impossible to estimate and it is certainly a model that requires endless patience. Even if another variation of this extremely limited model is added it seems unlikely to lead to sluggish sales in other collections. It will be very interesting to see if the 222 becomes an iconic timepiece among modern consumers with its diverse changes.

Every year there are various speculations about new Rolex releases but Rolex often surprises with unexpected announcements. How closely will this article match reality this year?
VIVER is holding a new Rolex prediction event until the opening day of Watches and Wonders on April 9 2024.
We look forward to the enthusiastic participation of our subscribers.