The Birth of Tudor

Sub-brands are not very common in the watch industry. However, Thanks to Rolex, A well-known watch company, They feel familiar. Tudor was introduced in 1926 as a sub-brand of Rolex. It began with the establishment of the Tudor Watch Company, A new company created to produce high-quality watches with Rolex’s technology and reliability. Since its founding, Tudor has followed the history of Rolex while also writing its own story and growing together.

Separate from Rolex

Now Tudor wants to realize value beyond that of a sub-brand with its own strategies and moves. In the past, It used calibers supplied by the movement manufacturer ETA, But now it uses in-house calibers and seeks to be recognized for quality through a robust certification system that is different from Rolex but equally reliable. This is in line with the values set when Tudor was first established. 

Kenissi

Rue de France 63, 2400 Le Locle, Swiss
©Google map

Kenissi, A new movement manufacturer in Geneva, Is still a relatively unknown company. If you look around, You will find that Kenissi is connected to Rolex, One of the largest manufacturers in Switzerland. This company is a movement specialist owned by Tudor, The sub-brand of Rolex. 

Tudor MT5402 Movement ©Calibercorner

A representative caliber is the self-winding MT5402. Some parts of this caliber resemble the 3235, Rolex’s main caliber. It uses a shock-resistant balance bridge structure and pursues accuracy with a daily deviation of -2 to +4 seconds, Which far exceeds the COSC certification standard of -4 to +6 seconds. The power reserve is 70 hours, Allowing the watch to run for quite a while even when not worn. While its appearance may not be particularly stylish, Its performance is quite reliable. The MT5402 is also supplied to other partner companies. 

J12 COUTURE WATCH, 38MM ©Chanel

Chanel acquired a 20% stake in Kenissi and, In return, Can use Kenissi’s calibers. Breitling receives the MT5402 in exchange for supplying self-winding chronograph calibers to Tudor. In other words, Tudor equips its watches with the in-house caliber made by Kenissi and also supplies it to other companies for profit. 

Master Chronometer Certification

At Watches and Wonders 2024, Tudor unveiled three new models, Excluding the ladies’ watch Clair de Rose. 

Black bay 58 GMT 39mm ©Tudor

The Black Bay collection, Which debuted in 2012 and now represents Tudor, And the Black Bay 58 collection, Named after the year 1958 when Tudor introduced its first 200m water-resistant diver’s watch. The new Black Bay and Black Bay 58 GMT models from each collection now feature the wording ‘MASTER CHRONOMETER’ instead of ‘CHRONOMETER OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED’ on the lower part of the dial. 

Tudor Black Bay Ceramic  ©a blog to watch

The Master Chronometer certification, First introduced with the Black Bay Ceramic in 2021, Has been expanded. The Master Chronometer certification by METAS (Metrology And Accreditation Switzerland) comprehensively verifies watch functions such as accuracy, Anti-magnetic performance, Water resistance, And power reserve. COSC certification is a prerequisite, But the caliber must achieve a daily deviation of 0 to +5 seconds when cased. Resistance to magnetic fields of 15, 000 gauss is essential. The Black Bay and Black Bay 58 GMT passed tests for 200m water resistance and a power reserve of over 65 hours, Earning the ‘MASTER CHRONOMETER’ designation. The tests are as rigorous as Rolex’s own standards, Confirming high quality, But they are not identical to Rolex’s criteria. 

Together with Rolex Again

The three new models unveiled this time are not many in number, But each one is significant. The Black Bay and Black Bay 58 GMT have been officially certified for performance with the Master Chronometer certification. The Black Bay 58 18K is Tudor’s first full gold model, With the entire bracelet made of gold, Following previous bronze, Silver, And 18k yellow gold cases. The price is much higher than Tudor’s average, But it is intended to showcase the diversity of case materials. Tudor’s design and detail orientation is a reinterpretation of vintage Rolex watches, And the new models continue this tradition. 

Black Bay ref. M7941A1A0NU

Tudor Black Bay Collection Released in 2024 ©Tudor

The Black Bay, Which condenses 60 years of Tudor diver’s watch history, Varies in color and detail within the framework reminiscent of the vintage Submariner. The blue bezel insert, Red and two-tone colors that succeed the traditional Tudor Submariner are a bit bolder compared to the current Rolex Submariner. The use of a traditional aluminum insert instead of ceramic is evidence of its vintage orientation. 

Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer 41mm©Monochrome

The domed glass, Gilt-tone dial, And rivet bracelet are features of the Black Bay and elements that reproduce vintage style. The new Black Bay shows some exceptional details among these features. Perhaps unexpectedly, The dial, Indexes, And bezel are monochrome in black and white. While these are the most basic colors, The ‘basic color’ that had never been seen in the Black Bay has finally appeared and is being well received.
The seconds hand has also changed from the snowflake to the lollipop shape, Making it even closer to the Submariner. Modern features include the Master Chronometer certification, 200m water resistance, And the option to choose from three types of bracelets: rivet, Jubilee style, Or rubber strap.  

Black Bay 7941A1A0NU

41mm, Black

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT 

There is a recurring topic every year when new products are announced. Will the black-red bezel insert, Known as ‘Coke’ from the GMT-Master 2, Be released? Expectations were high again this year, But it did not become a reality. 

Rolex GMT-Master2 16710 ‘COKE’  ©Hodinkee

The new Black Bay 58 GMT also adopts the lollipop seconds hand, And compared to the previous Black Bay GMT, You can see the changed details. Likewise, Modern features include the Master Chronometer certification, 200m water resistance, And the option of a rubber strap.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT M7939G1A0MRU-0001 ©Hodinkee

However, The Black Bay 58 GMT makes up for that disappointment. Although it uses an aluminum insert instead of ceramic, The bezel stands out with its striking black-red contrast, Gilt-tone 24-hour numerals and dial indexes, And a domed glass that allows you to enjoy distortion, Giving it the feel of a vintage GMT-Master that has been preserved in excellent condition for decades. The smooth case without crown guards is also a vintage element. 

Black Bay 58 GMT 7939G1A0NRU

39mm, Black

Black Bay 58 GMT 7939G1A0NRU

39mm, Black

Black Bay 7941A1A0NU

41mm, Black

Black Bay 7941A1A0NU

41mm, Black

Black Bay 58 18K

Tudor Black Bay 58 18K ©Tudor

This is the most expensive current Tudor watch, With an official retail price of 43, 420, 000 KRW. Every part of the watch is made of yellow gold. The bezel and dial colors are green, Which pairs well with yellow gold. 

Tudor Black Bay 58 M79018V-0001  ©Tudor

Compared to the previously introduced yellow gold case with a leather strap, This model is almost 20 million KRW more expensive. This is likely due to the heavy gold bracelet. The price difference with the Rolex Submariner yellow gold is about 10.5 million KRW, So whether you look at the absolute or relative price, It is not an easy purchase and is truly a collector’s model. 

Black Bay 58 18K 79018V-0006

39mm, Green

Black Bay 58 18K 79018V

39mm, Green