Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès. These are total brands admired by all. There is probably no one who does not want to own a bag or wallet made by these brands. However, When it comes to watches made by them, Some may hesitate. This is because they are not “watch specialists.” Contrary to such perceptions, Their watches have recently been receiving significant attention and in some respects even surpass traditional watchmaking companies. Let us take a look at these total brands that are making great strides today.

Early Era

Total brands, As the name suggests, Handle items across various genres. Louis Vuitton, Which started with travel trunks, Now deals with leather goods such as trunks, Bags, And wallets, As well as clothing and various accessories.

Louis vuitton commercial
©Thomas Schenk

Chanel began with Coco Chanel’s haute couture and mainly focuses on women’s clothing, Bags, Perfumes, And cosmetics. Unlike Louis Vuitton and Hermès, Chanel’s products, Except for watches, Are mostly limited to women. Hermès, As can be seen from its logo, Started with equestrian harnesses and transferred that expertise to leather goods such as bags. Like Louis Vuitton, Hermès covers a wide range of fields, Including clothing and detailed accessories.

Hermes Leather Products ©issu

Although all these brands have made watches, Before 2000, Their watches were often considered as accessories. Because they were regarded as a type of jewelry worn on the body, It was very rare for them to equip mechanical calibers like watch specialists. They usually prioritized design and used quartz calibers in the form of watches. After 2000, The situation changed. It is likely that they discovered the high added value of mechanical watches. The preferences of newly affluent individuals who entered the market after COVID-19 also seem to have had an influence. They did not distinguish between traditional watch specialists and total brands and considered them equally from the perspective of luxury. In the meantime, The watchmaking capabilities of total brands have improved dramatically.

Louis Vuitton Tambour

The Italian architect Gae Aulenti designed the Monterey I, Which can be considered Louis Vuitton’s first watch. As a traveler’s watch in line with Louis Vuitton’s theme of travel trunks, It was a quartz watch equipped with world time, Alarm, And moon phase functions, Truly designed for travelers.

Louis Vuitton Tambour watch, Ref. Q11310
©SWISSWATCHES

The true era of watchmaking began with the launch of the Tambour, Which means “drum, ” in 2002. Unlike the design language of watch specialists, The Tambour had a case back with a larger surface area than the bezel, Essentially bringing the drum motif into the design. Starting with chronograph functions, It included various features for travelers such as GMT and tourbillon, Showcasing Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking prowess.

Escale Spin Time Meteorite Dial Pink Gold
©SWISSWATCHES

In 2011, Louis Vuitton acquired the movement manufacturer La Fabrique du Temps, Expanding its production facilities and workforce, And upgraded it to La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. As a result, A new Tambour was introduced. Collaborating with movement specialists at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, They completed the in-house self-winding caliber LFT023 and installed it in the new Tambour. This watch features a bracelet that connects smoothly from the unique Tambour case, With a simple and sleek line. The dial, Case details, And the beautiful finishing of the LFT023 caliber demonstrate a level of perfection comparable to high-end watches.

Chanel J12

Number 5. This is the perfume that represents Chanel. The shape of this perfume bottle is as unique as its scent. Chanel’s first watch, The Première, Released in 1987, Was inspired by the silhouette of the stopper of Number 5. Chanel often drew inspiration for its watches from its own items, But the J12, Which represents Chanel’s serious watchmaking, Was different. The design was handled by the late Jacques Helleu, Who was a designer at Chanel.

Chanel mademoiselle / Chanel matelasse©Chanel

Starting with the Première, He was responsible for the design of the Mademoiselle in 1990 and the Matelassé watch in 1993. After completing the Matelassé watch, Jacques Helleu began designing a new watch. With a strong interest in cars and boats, He is said to have been inspired by the “J Class” yacht race, The oldest yacht competition in the America’s Cup. He designed the J12 with a yacht watch in mind and completed it using ceramic, A material that symbolizes Chanel watches. In 1993, Chanel acquired the case manufacturer G&F Chatelain and used it as a foundation for watch manufacturing. After the acquisition, Chatelain, Which was merely a case manufacturer, Was transformed into Chanel’s watchmaking base through continuous investment and expansion.

Chanel J12  33mm Black, White ©Chanel

Currently, Chatelain produces not only the J12 but also high complications. This year, Chanel introduced the Pink Capsule Collection, Which combines the J12 and the square-cased Boyfriend and is colored in pink, Symbolizing Coco Chanel.

Chanel Boyfriend Skeleton, J12 Pink Edition
©Revolution

Hermès Arceau

Among the three, Hermès has the longest and most distinguished history in watchmaking. It began in 1912 when Emile Hermès gifted a watch to his daughter Jacqueline. At that time, Wristwatches did not exist, So it was a pocket watch placed in a leather pouch with a strap to be worn on the wrist. From the 1920s, Hermès became interested in watches and is known to have admired renowned specialist watch companies such as Patek Philippe and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Hermès even collaborated with Jaeger-LeCoultre. The turning point for Hermès watchmaking came in 1978, When then-CEO Jean-Louis Dumas established La Montre Hermès, The watch division. Designer Henri d'Origny was responsible for the watch design, And the Arceau was born.

Hermes Arceau ©Hermes

The design of the Arceau, Inspired by the stirrup, One of the harnesses, Is extremely simple yet features asymmetrical lugs at the top and bottom, Giving it a unique appearance. Since then, Hermès has continued to create watch designs inspired by items related to harnesses, But these were mainly developed for women. In 2006, Hermès acquired a 25% stake in the high-end movement manufacturer Vaucher, Marking the beginning of more serious watchmaking. Compared to Louis Vuitton and Chanel, Hermès has a higher proportion of unique high complications developed in collaboration with external specialists.

Hermes arceau duc-attele ©Hermes

This year, Hermès introduced the Arceau Duc Attelé. The theme of Duc Attelé, Which means a carriage drawn by two horses as seen in the logo, Is reflected in various details of the watch. The new model with a central tourbillon and minute repeater functions features a tourbillon cage shaped like the H initial of Hermès, A repeater hammer shaped like a horse’s head, And a wheel shaped like a carriage spoke, Paying tribute to Hermès’s history and tradition of harnesses through both function and detail.