How did you feel when you first encountered the Royal Oak?
You may have heard the name, Seen photos, Or even caught a glimpse of it in person somewhere. However, When you look at the price tag, You might hesitate. You wonder, “Why is it so expensive?” After searching on YouTube and blogs, You find that it is called an “iconic” “luxury sports watch” and “the icon of the integrated bracelet.”
So what exactly makes something an icon...?
The Value of an Icon:
An IP that remains attractive over time
Various types of Royal Oak
https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk
Let’s take the example of an ‘icon’ in popular culture.
When you think of K-pop, Everyone thinks of BTS or BLACKPINK. If you look for icons in pop history, You think of Michael Jackson, The Beatles, And Elvis Presley, Who are no longer with us. Not only during their lifetimes but also after, Their songs continue to be loved. Their lives and stories transcend time, Becoming movies and musicals, Constantly being reinterpreted and consumed by new generations.
The Beatles
https://www.bbc.com
Poster for the movie 'Michael' about Michael Jackson's story
https://www.imdb.com
Creating a New Segment:
Why the Royal Oak is an Absolute Icon
Design sketch by Gérald Genta, Designer of the Royal Oak
https://www.sothebys.com
When the Royal Oak was first released in 1972, The watch industry’s response was cold. At the time, The conventional wisdom was clear. Steel was a cheap material, Sports watches should be practical, And high-end watches should be made of gold or platinum.
Audemars Piguet Perpetual Calendar from 1955
https://revolutionwatch.com
However, Audemars Piguet broke all these conventions. Despite being made of steel, It was priced shockingly high for the time. The octagonal bezel, Rough yet meticulously finished, The bracelet perfectly integrated with the case—everything was a shock.
The emergence of the Royal Oak marked the birth of the ‘luxury sports watch’ and the ‘integrated bracelet’ category and concept.
The first Royal Oak Ref. 5402 released in 1972
https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com
Early Royal Oak Ref.5402
https://www.windvintage.com
Of course, If such a category had only been a brief trend, It would not have been so special. However, After the Royal Oak was born, Competing brands released various types of integrated bracelet watches.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato released in 1975
Girard-Perregaux Ref.4460
https://monochrome-watches.com
Patek Philippe Nautilus released in 1976
Vacheron Constantin 222 released in 1977
Vacheron Constantin Ref. 44018
https://www.analogshift.com
Cartier Santos Carree released in 1977
Cartier Ref.2961
https://relojesvintagemexico.com
Continuous development and change over 54 years
attracts new buyers
Royal Oak Day-Date Moonphase Ref.25594SA
© Watch Terminal
Over the past 54 years, The Royal Oak has diversified in size, Complications, And materials, Increasing the value of the ‘Royal Oak’ IP.
The first ‘complication’ Royal Oak (1983)
Audemars Piguet Ref.5572
https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com
The first Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (1984)
Audemars Piguet Ref.25554
https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com
The first Royal Oak Offshore (1993)
Audemars Piguet Ref.25721
https://apchronicles.audemarspiguet.com
The first Royal Oak Concept (2002)
Audemars Piguet Ref.25980AI
https://www.sothebys.com
The first modern ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oak faithful to the original Royal Oak 5402 ‘Jumbo’ (2012)
Audemars Piguet Ref.15202
https://www.ssongwatches.com
Applying various variations to a single iconic design and establishing itself as an icon is similar to what Porsche 911, MINI, And Range Rover have done.
Porsche 911 and 901
2026 Porsche 911
https://www.motor1.com
1963 Porsche 901
https://newsroom.porsche.com
Land Rover Range Rover: 1970 and 2026 models
(Top) 2026 Range Rover, (Bottom) 1970 Range Rover
https://www.topgear.com
Despite being a ‘high-end’ watch, The Royal Oak has raised awareness of the Audemars Piguet brand among young consumers and further increased interest in high-end watches.
Audemars Piguet Offshore Jay-Z
(https://www.sothebys.com)
Travis Scott’s Cactus Jack Edition Royal Oak 26585CM
https://wristaficionado.com
Such bold moves would be unimaginable for other high-end makers who have focused only on tradition and craftsmanship and targeted seasoned collectors. Yet, Isn’t this very aspect of the Royal Oak the self-evidence of its status as the ‘icon of luxury sports watches’?
In the next installment, We will look at the Royal Oak’s most groundbreaking recent move, The collaboration with Swatch, Royal Pop.
David Hwang
Watch Analyst
Watch Terminal
