The world's largest watch festival Watches and Wonders has returned. Watches and Wonders (hereafter W&W) 2024 will be held in Geneva Switzerland from April 9 to 15 and will officially open to the public from the 13th. Among the 54 brands participating in W&W this year much attention has been focused on the new releases from Rolex and its sister brand Tudor.

© timeandwatches

Rolex's new releases can be summed up as 'the year of gold.' Out of six lines with new models five feature gold or platinum materials. Last year saw spectacular lineups such as reference updates for Daytona and Sky-Dweller the Yacht-Master Titanium and the new 1908 collection but this year Rolex is seen as taking a brief pause.

GMT-Master 2 Wayne

GMT-Master 2 126710GRNR Jubilee Bracelet © Rolex

The GMT-Master 2 Ref. 126710BLRO 'Pepsi' remains in the catalog dismissing numerous discontinuation rumors. What caught the eye was the debut of the GMT-Master 2 Ref. 126710GRNR.

GMT-Master 2 126710 GRNR Oyster Bracelet © Rolex

Bruce Wayne © Warner Brothers

This model features the black and gray GRNR (Gris Noir) bezel first introduced last year with the GMT-Master 2 Ref. 126713GRNR now fitted to a stainless steel case. The green hands reminiscent of the previous generation GMT-Master 2 116710LN are also impressive. Inspired by the look of the black and gray bezel with steel Rolex enthusiasts have already given it the nickname 'Bruce Wayne' after Batman's true identity. It is available with both Jubilee and Oyster bracelets and is priced the same as the 126710BLRO and 126710BLNR (Jubilee 15, 100, 000 KRW Oyster 14, 810, 000 KRW).

GMT-Master 2 126713GRNR

40mm black Jubilee

GMT-Master 2 116710LN

40mm black Oyster

Which models were discontinued?

The Yacht-Master 2 with its regatta chronograph function for yacht racing and the 'Palm' and 'Fluted' motifs of the Datejust have been quietly discontinued.

Yacht-Master 2 116680 © Rolex

The Yacht-Master 2 a utility line derived as a luxury alternative to the Submariner attracted a niche group of enthusiasts due to its large size and specialized sports functions but after 17 years of production it has now exited the catalog.

Yacht-Master 2 116680

44mm white Oyster

Palm Motif Fluted Motif

Datejust Palm Motif Fluted Motif © Rolex

The Palm Motif and Fluted Motif dials of the Datejust collection also had a small fan base but were discontinued after only three years. Since motif dials are regularly rotated a short production period is not unusual.

Is 2024 the year of GOLD for Rolex?

Rolex's core value is manufacturing robust and precise watches and its 'Professional' line including diver pilot and tool watches is most beloved by enthusiasts. However as mentioned earlier this W&W shows Rolex focusing on gold materials. The brand is emphasizing its high-end aspect by adding expensive 'men's jewelry watches' to various catalogs.

Sky-Dweller

Sky-Dweller 336935 336938 Rolex © Rolex

The Jubilee bracelet which contributed to the popularity of the steel Sky-Dweller model has now been applied to the gold models. This adds an even more luxurious feel unique to the Sky-Dweller.

The Dazzling Daytona

Rolex professional models with gem-set bezels are usually off-catalog timepieces. Therefore the addition of diamond-set models to the Daytona collection is unusual. In theory these models are available to the general public as part of the catalog but due to their high price and impractical design opinions are divided. In the watch community there is a growing sentiment that this is a sophisticated strategy to resolve the phenomenon of certain models monopolizing popularity and there are concerns that the share of the most popular steel models will decrease further.

New Daytona Models © TheWatchBusiness

The new Daytona models can be found in yellow Everose and white gold versions offering a variety of dazzling combinations. The model with a mother-of-pearl dial is set with brilliant-cut diamonds while the others are set with trapeze-cut diamonds. The price range has been set from 85 million KRW to 170 million KRW expanding Daytona's ultra-high-end selection.

Yellow Gold Deepsea

Rolex Deepsea 136668 © Rolex

The Deepsea the largest commercial model from Rolex at 44mm is now available in yellow gold. The Deepsea ref. 136668 made of 18-carat yellow gold features an RLX titanium case back and a ceramic insert bezel. The price is a staggering 72, 230, 000 KRW and it is expected to be a flex watch for those with substantial wrists.

Day-Date

The Day-Date which is produced exclusively in gold now has a richer catalog. As gold is the symbol of the Day-Date the new dial types and variations have been highly praised.

Day-Date Ombre Green Ombre Blue-Green Dial © Rolex

The Day-Date has achieved a 'harmonious transformation.' The striking ombre dial is expected to be the next hit. The slate ombre dial teased in the 2024 Academy Awards advertisement graphics has been released exclusively for Everose gold and the green ombre is exclusive to yellow gold. The blue-green dial first introduced on the Sky-Dweller is also expected to be very popular. In addition various options such as a trapeze-cut diamond-set bezel have been expanded.

1908

1908 Platinum Case © Rolex

The 1908 collection which was launched last year and has drawn much curiosity now introduces a platinum case and a guilloché-stamped dial version. Rolex is receiving positive reviews for this unique challenge using the guilloché stamping technique after a long time. For now the geometric guilloché pattern can only be seen on the platinum case reference 52506 and following Daytona and Day-Date the next in line to feature the ice blue dial color creates a cool and sporty look.

Tudor

Rolex's sister brand Tudor has also expanded its catalog by adding new models to its most beloved lines. The most notable release among these is the Black Bay 58 GMT.

Black Bay 58 GMT

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

If you have been closely following Tudor's new releases which have been more consumer-friendly than Rolex lately the 'Coke' bezel may not come as a surprise. Black Bay 58 Black Bay 54 and Pelagos 39 were all introduced in a short period showing Tudor's consistent efforts to meet fan expectations. The newly launched Black Bay 58 GMT may be seen as an alternative to the GMT-Master 2 'Coke' but it is receiving praise as the best alternative available.
 
This bezel which continues the 'Coke' lineage features a luxurious harmony of black and 'burgundy' colors with gilt numeral markers. It is noticeably darker and more subdued than the burgundy bezel of the Black Bay and the bezel uses the aluminum disc commonly found in Black Bay diver watches. The dial adopts the glossy black used in the existing Black Bay 58. With the return of the 'Coke' many watch enthusiasts are expected to decide on purchasing the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. However as Tudor is now recognized as an independent brand rather than just an alternative to Rolex some degree of sell-out is to be expected. The days when you can easily purchase Tudor's new releases as a trial are numbered.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

The Black Bay 58 GMT is available in steel bracelet and rubber band variations M7939G1A0NRU and in yellow gold with a green dial and bezel M79018V. The movement inside is an in-house caliber. The Cal. MT5450-U which has received both COSC and METAS certifications is a testament to Tudor's ongoing development and dedication. According to Tudor its accuracy surpasses the in-house certified caliber's -2/+4 and COSC's -4/+6 with a remarkable 0/+5. The thickness is 12.8mm just 0.8mm thicker than Rolex's GMT-Master 2. Considering its perfect 200m water resistance compared to the GMT-Master 2's 100m the specs are truly impressive.

Black Bay 'Monochrome' Black

Tudor Black Bay Black

Monochrome black watches are always in demand everywhere. Although overshadowed by the Black Bay 58 GMT the all-black model added to the basic Black Bay 41mm lineup also deserves attention.

An all-black bezel option has been added to the Black Bay 41mm version known for its signature burgundy bezel. For those who did not prefer the strong presence of the burgundy bezel or the gilt hands and markers of the existing black version this new release provides a clear answer in the 41mm size.

Black Bay Black

The Black Bay offering a monochromatic look is the black version of the recently updated Black Bay Burgundy. It features a two-line text dial without 'OFFICIALLY CERTIFIED' and replaces 'CHRONOMETER' with 'MASTER CERTIFIED.' The improved bracelet T-Fit clasp and sharper bezel introduced in 2023 are also applied. It shares the same price range as the Black Bay Burgundy and is available in three options: strap five-link bracelet and standard steel bracelet.

How did you enjoy the new releases from Rolex and Tudor? Many other brands also have exciting new releases. We will bring you more related news next week.